Why does the Mazdaspeed3 fuel cut so easily?

I wouldn't recommend an EBC on this car... or any BC for that matter. Go get it professionally tuned and have them use AccessTuner Pro or Race in order to set the boost targets and regulate boost through the ECU and AP tune. I've had nothing but headaches with my GReddy EBC so far.
 
Thanks for the post solidtrance!
i am going to jump in and then out to reread later. If it is not a harsh cut and just a lack of power it is probably pulling timing from KR. That is part of why my tuner wrote to stay with the timing when raising boost and adjusting fuel. As you seem to already know. Data is the key of course.
I promise to reread your very good post and respond with something that might help us all
Be sure my car has had some weird behaviour over my ownership and is ready fo another close look.
After i rebuild the turbo.
They wear quickly under higher boost. ( shaft play ) it seems.
 
Black dragon,
Hello again. Any progress? I hope so.
If you are interested in selling the greddy let me know. If i cannot make it work on the Mazda i am sure i will find use for it. My sons 87 1/2 Supra rebuild is a good candidate or my youngest daughter' GSX that we are rebuilding. Keep me in mind.
 
We are currently leasing toward getting a new FP. I don't think that will solve all of his problem, but it is a good idea at his level of mods and will be a good start. I have been reading a lot over the last week or so about the advantages of boost based tuning, and I may try it with my MS6 before we dive into fixing his tune. My MS6 has been acting funny ever since I installed the Tp (the temps dropped at the same time and have stayed pretty cold here in the Chicago area, so that is probably a cause of the problems too). I was initially looking into way I could modify my tune to make it more cold weather freindly before my buddie ran into his trouble with his tune. Since then I have been thinking/reading more about his problems than my own. My MS6 is not running nearly as bad as his MS3, so he needs the fix more than I do, but I think if I am going to experiment with a new tunning method I should do it with my own car.

Anyone here try switching to boost based tuning yet? Any sugestions/advice before I dive into it this weekend?
 
eric, my re-tune is scheduled for next week, so once i get in and have my tuner take a look ill get back to you guys here on the forum... my only issue right now is the fact that i DONT want to run the EBC anymore. thats gonna cause me to have to pay for the re-tune instead of get it done free. so idk what i'm doing yet but if you're interested already then if i can figure out what im gonna do soon enough and take it off, i'll let you know and we can work out a deal. Not gonna let it go too cheaply, it's practically brand new... it's been on the car not even 6 months and was bought brand new not 3 months before then.

in addition... the shaft play we encounter after higher boost shouldnt be too terrible, we're journal bearing turbo'd afterall, a little play isnt so bad. when youve got that kind of play with a ball bearing turbo, then you have some issues. lol

and solid, good luck with your tuning endeavors! keep us posted on what you find out
 
I am not entirely sure what you mean by boost based tuning.
As i hope it is clear is i am still learning and could not tune my way out of a geo metro.
But when we originally were driving around for days tuning and using up my clutch during, hehe... he told me he was bringing boost in by rpm and adjusting to that with fuel and timing. I was getting too much wheelspin when it was hitting full boost so the targets were done at 500 rpm increments. On and off power kinda it was at first. even with the little fella. we were hitting target of 21-22 lbs at 5200-5300.
But i was still rich a little. He left me that way for safety.
I think that this type of tune will require the Electronic boost controller.
But i could be less than correct.
He is still not finished with tuning the car and it might be awhile before i get together with him again.
But i sure look forward to the progress you gentleman make and look forward to your successes!
good luck
eric
 
Well in my case I'm using the AccessPort and AccessTuner to have the car tuned... that program is able to set the boost targets and cut limit on the stock ECU within the software itself, so that's not my issue. Not to mention I have my cut problem at 13-14 psi maybe even less, depending on the circumstances.

How is my 14.9 a bad number? I don't see it constantly, the Dashhawk readings just fluctuate because they update constantly, and like I said I see from 14.5-14.9 hovering around 14.7 mostly, which would be the "perfect" mixture, I've even read that it's actually a tad rich at 14.7 so I'm not too worried about my 14.9.

What are your thoughts/what's your reasoning? Remember these are A/F ratio's.

14.9-14.7:1 should only be seen at cruise and very light load. If you are seeing 14:1 AFR on boost, you are running WAY to lean and you might even see a lean misfire at this AFR (maybe). 14.7:1 is an "ideal" AFR, meaning that if you balance the chemical equation for gasoline+O2, this is the ratio of gasoline to oxygen where the equation is balanced (remember Highschool chemistry?). Here is a very basic equation for burning gasoline: 2 c8h18 + 25 o2 ---> 18 h2o + 16 co2 (simplified). However, gasoline has to have a chance to combine with the available oxygen. In a static and room-temperature environment this is rather easy to acheive. In the hot, high-pressure internal environment of a gasoline-burning engine you need to inject more fuel in order to get these molecules to combine completely and evenly. While 14.7:1 may be the ideal mixture for a 100% balanced burn, it is not ideal for getting gasoline to mix with air. An uneven mixture can cause an uneven burn, this is generally what we call "knock". Uneven burning of gasoline that slams into the piston face instead of a nice even burn that gradually builds cylinder pressure.

Also, gasoline can cool the combustion chamber. Employing chemical cooling as we call it, is a good way to do things like run more timing or increase boost pressure without inducing knock. The added fuel, cools down the cylinder. High cylinder temps are another cause of detonation.

While running stoich is technically ideal, it is still very lean. We find that these cars run best around mid-12:1 AFR. A traditional port-injection car may want to run more like 11:1. The direct injection allows a leaner AFR at high-boost since you get better cooling with the direct fuel spray and better atomization for better cooling and better fuel swirl/oxygen mix.

Travis
COBB Tuning
 
Reading through this thread has been very helpful. Thanks to all for the great discussion and exchange of information. I am trying to help a friend (with a Speed3) with his tune and I think he is running into the same problems you all are discussing. He recently purchased an AP and loaded the Stage 2+FMIC 93 map. His mods are Cobb SRI, PG Turbo Inlet, PG FMIC, CorkSport Test Pipe, HKS SSQ BPV, HKS Hi-Power Catback Exhaust, and he just installed ITV 22's (he checked the gap before install). He has had all these mods and no tune for at least 6 months, so he got use to his car doing strange things under a variety of load conditions. After loading the Cobb and flashing the map he said that the car was running better, but there was still significant KR. I took it for a ride last night and my impressions were;

1. Much smoother than last time I drove it (5-6 months ago)
2. Pulls hard (to the right if you are not paying attention, torque steer almost caught me sleeping the first time I jumped on it) It was a little bit of a wild ride until I got use to being in a FWD monster again
3. Loosing power WOT around 4.5K, should pull MUCH harder to 6K My current thinking is that he is hitting fuel cut when his car builds 19+ lbs of boost. I think he agrees and said as much last night, but we weren't sure if it was boost cut or fuel cut. After reading a bunch I am leaning (pun intended) toward fuel cut. The big question is, what is causing it. I think it may well be a combination of needing new fuel pump internals, and something in the tune needs to be adjusted, but what?
4. Also loosing power/knocking under less than WOT conditions. Less predictable/repeatable. Not really sure of the cause of this, but I suspect this is also a problem with the relationship between his tune and his mods. Since it is happening under less than WOT conditions I am not as concerned with this since the engine should have no problem protecting itself.

Possible solutions:
1. Tuning out the problem I think this is going to be the best way to go. Fix the tune rather than put a Band-Aid on it.
2. Fuel Pump internals Another friend's idea, and I am thinking he is onto at least some of the problem after doing a bunch of reading, some of it right here in this thread.
3. Using a different map (currently on Stage 2+ FMIC IIRC) Stage 1 maps would drop the boost target and that might fix the problem, although I think it would only be masking it.
4. Some sort of electrical/mechanical fix (EBC, MBC, Boost Cut Defender, Fuel Cut Defender, etc....) Band-Aid, not a good final solution, but could be added for another layer of safety
5. May be temp related. I live in Chicago and he has only had the AP for a few days so it has been cold the whole time. However, I am not haveing the same problems with my wifes MS6 running a Cobb Stage 2+TIHSF tune in the same weather.

Here are a few logs. I tried to name them in a way that makes it easy to tell what you are looking at. It was pretty cold (like 12 deg) when we made these logs. Questions, comments????

I think I answered your thread on the COBB Forums. This car has a failing fuel pump. It is 100% the reason why this car is not running properly. Before you can diagnose any other issues, the fuel pump must be replaced. Let us know if you guys have any other questions.
 
Travis,
thanks for showing up and giving us folks your help. If you are able to speak directly with our blackdragon that would be great to get him on track to a happy tune!
Now that you are here..If you can help me to understand the differences with tuning disi motors under boost. I had worried that the rules would be a little different especially in the fuel squirts. a little richer you mentioned.
I do almost understand the balance of using fuel as cooling effect, well basically anyways.
Do we have an advantage with disi and tuning? or fuel economy only. What would you advise us in general in regard to this particular motor fuel and timing under load. I do not want you to give secrets of course hehe(pm me) but maybe a snippet that will save us noobs some trouble with this platform.
Thanks again sir
eric
 
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i always had 1300lbs + per the ecu after a Mazda replace reflash. And my duty cycle was more than happy with room to grow.
If your pump is going you will see lean under load.
If you have the ability to set a warning on your tuning or monitoring device please do so.
 
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I think I answered your thread on the COBB Forums. This car has a failing fuel pump. It is 100% the reason why this car is not running properly. Before you can diagnose any other issues, the fuel pump must be replaced. Let us know if you guys have any other questions.

Thanks for the response over there. I think he ordered new internals. It looks like there is nothing else that will help him. From the look of his logs I guess he is lucky to have made it this long.
 
14.9-14.7:1 should only be seen at cruise and very light load. If you are seeing 14:1 AFR on boost, you are running WAY to lean and you might even see a lean misfire at this AFR (maybe). 14.7:1 is an "ideal" AFR, meaning that if you balance the chemical equation for gasoline+O2, this is the ratio of gasoline to oxygen where the equation is balanced (remember Highschool chemistry?). Here is a very basic equation for burning gasoline: 2 c8h18 + 25 o2 ---> 18 h2o + 16 co2 (simplified). However, gasoline has to have a chance to combine with the available oxygen. In a static and room-temperature environment this is rather easy to acheive. In the hot, high-pressure internal environment of a gasoline-burning engine you need to inject more fuel in order to get these molecules to combine completely and evenly. While 14.7:1 may be the ideal mixture for a 100% balanced burn, it is not ideal for getting gasoline to mix with air. An uneven mixture can cause an uneven burn, this is generally what we call "knock". Uneven burning of gasoline that slams into the piston face instead of a nice even burn that gradually builds cylinder pressure.

Also, gasoline can cool the combustion chamber. Employing chemical cooling as we call it, is a good way to do things like run more timing or increase boost pressure without inducing knock. The added fuel, cools down the cylinder. High cylinder temps are another cause of detonation.

While running stoich is technically ideal, it is still very lean. We find that these cars run best around mid-12:1 AFR. A traditional port-injection car may want to run more like 11:1. The direct injection allows a leaner AFR at high-boost since you get better cooling with the direct fuel spray and better atomization for better cooling and better fuel swirl/oxygen mix.

Travis
COBB Tuning

Thanks Travis, my 14.7 IS under cruise and light load. WOT I'm in the 12's so I'm good in that regard. My real question now however is whether or not I should be running an electronic boost controller on this car, or just using the AccessPort to tune the boost levels to the desired level. My tuner suggested the EBC was a good idea before a tune to make it easier so I invested in one, but now I'm thinking he just said that to make it easier on HIM. I now realize the stock boost control solenoid uses a good amount of different parameters to control and regulate the boost... such as load, throttle position, and other current driving conditions. Any input would be great, as I'm supposed to be getting a re-tune on wednesday the 26th... I'm wondering whether or not I should be removing the EBC and telling him that under good authority (being Cobb, you guys) I removed it and would like it to be tuned on the AP not the EBC.
 
Travis i hope you can help blackdragon out because he asks some good questions that others are considering in detail and also in general.
 
In the most respectful way, I would almost hope you are wrong. Elsewise...think of all those that have bought the upgraded fuel pumps just to find out the TC system was kicking them in the ass.
Mine does that from 2800-3700. I've "pooshed the button", and nothing. Using accessport, fuel pressure ranges from 64-1806. I'm pretty sure mine is my hpfp fuel pump is failing. 138k miles though, that's okay.
 
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