Who needs a CleanSweep

[wipeout]

The following is an explanation of what this thing does, my question is whether anyone knows if the factory head unit offers flat response or if I really need one of these $300 pieces to add on an after market amp.

If your factory head unit is difficult, impractical or impossible to replace and employs non-defeatable factory equalization and you wish to obtain good results from upgrading to aftermarket amplifiers and speaker systems in your car, the CleanSweep will act as a gateway between the factory source unit (or amplifier) and your aftermarket audio equipment. The CleanSweep CL441dsp will correct the factory systems frequency response, give you a linear master volume control, control the turn-on of your aftermarket electronics and allow you to add a secondary source unit of your choice to the system.

 

[krimsonviper]

(thumb), but regular people dont want to deploy 300 bones just to employ a unit that will do basically the same thing as a LOC. Its the real enthusiasts that will mess around with a cleansweep, not dick and jane from down the block.

 

[Abaddon]

(thumb), but regular people dont want to deploy 300 bones just to employ a unit that will do basically the same thing as a LOC. Its the real enthusiasts that will mess around with a cleansweep, not dick and jane from down the block.

Basically the same thing as a LOC.... wow...

Does so much more.... Definitively worth the cost if you are putting in high end components.

I'm running one in my car. Now, I only have the sub running off of it right now, so I don't know how the frequency responce is across the entire range, but it deffenitly has full low end extension. Supposidly I'm now putting out a "flat" signal...

...Honestly, a better option is the rockford fosgate 3sixty.2 if you have the ability to get your hands on a bluetooth laptop or palm device. You need one or the other to setup the device, but it gives a LOT more options then the cleansweep. The cleensweep only outputs a flat curve, the 3sixty is also a full equilizer that you can program to whatever you want. It's also an active crossover, so you can build yourself your own front component set without resorting to pre-selected components.

I didnt have access to a bluetooth palm or laptop, and I got the cleansweep for a good deal, so it made sense to me at the time.

Here is the basic answer...
Do you need a cleansweep / 3sixty.. no
Should you use one? yes The factory unit has a VERY highly compromised frequency response curve. If you want to do it right.. you'll need one of these devices...

 

[krimsonviper]

it is the same thing when you're looking at it from a general term. Most people(not car audio enthusiasts) are just looking for a way to add on amps and subs. they couldnt really careless to make the freq curve flat, therefore an LOC is the same thing as cleansweep, only 240 bucks cheaper.I stick by my original statement. I plan on getting the cleansweep, when i finally get the chance to buy a better mazda3

The key selling points on my a Cleansweep is better than a regular LOC
1. It doesnt enhance the sound(a straighter freq. band)
2. It gives a higher RCA output volt(8)
3. (im guessing on this one)you can add anything to it(dvd player, iPodizzle, sat radio, you name it, it will take it)

But again, to old dick and jane down the block, its just an LOC

 

[wipeout]

I'm torn on this one. The drawback is the added cost. I am planning to install a 2 channel JL amp to run 6.5 JL components in the front doors. I plan on leaving the factory speakers in the back and having the factory headunit run them. I know you guys will say if you're going with JL components the this type of signal processor makes sense however to be able to afford the JL equipment is a stretch and every dollar counts. Oh the dilemma.

 

[krimsonviper]

Go to a store, and check out eclipse head units and find out if their decks still give a flat eq. If they do, they scope them out, or if a place that sells the cleansweep has it on display, check it out. compare its sound to other decks, you will notice a sound quality difference and the cleansweep will be the winner IMO. you want to compare the cleansweep to other decks because and LOC will basically sound the same as an aftermarket deck. if you can afford the JL equipment, then get it you wont be sorry

these are all guesses with an LOC compared to an aftermarket deck. i havent seen or touched an LOC, because i like my eclipse deck and do whatever i can to place it in my current ride, and its taken its toll. I plan on getting a cleansweep because it flattens the frequencies across the board, allows me to keep the stock look to fool people from breaking into my ride, and gives me 8 volt pre-outs so my amps wont run so hot because i dont have to turn up the gains.

oh and word from the wise, chances are, if you're going to connect the rear speakers to the amp, they're going to last maybe a month before they blow. sooner or later with the added equipment, you're going to need to upgrade your system, chances are you'll be bitten with the upgrade bug like the rest of us, good luck on your endeavors, mate

 

[Abaddon]

I'm torn on this one.

It all comes down to one thing..

Do you feel that you can hear the difference?

If you CAN.. then every time you listen to your stereo, you will think to yourself "man.. this COULD be better if I had a signal processor".

If you CANT hear the difference.. then there is really no point in a digital signal processor.

 

[krimsonviper]

It all comes down to one thing..

Do you feel that you can hear the difference?

If you CAN.. then every time you listen to your stereo, you will think to yourself "man.. this COULD be better if I had a signal processor".

If you CANT hear the difference.. then there is really no point in a digital signal processor.

(werd), you might be with dick and jane from down the block

 

[fourthmeal]

...Honestly, a better option is the rockford fosgate 3sixty.2 if you have the ability to get your hands on a bluetooth laptop or palm device. You need one or the other to setup the device, but it gives a LOT more options then the cleansweep. The cleensweep only outputs a flat curve, the 3sixty is also a full equilizer that you can program to whatever you want. It's also an active crossover, so you can build yourself your own front component set without resorting to pre-selected components.

+1 on the 3sixty.2!

Don't forget that it does time alignment as well, and creates a full-blown crossover, good enough for a 2-way full active system PLUS sub, PLUS center channel if you want one. Basically its the s***.

The only thing that can do better is the new Alpine thing, or the new JBL MS-8.

My problem with the Clean sweep is that while it does have an advanced way of correcting for bad frequency repsonse, it doesn't have x-over, time correction, or many other useful tools onboard. Whereas for about double the cost, the 3sixty.2 gets all of it done.

A lot of people don't realize it, but when replacing parts for a sound system, the front speakers are at a disadvantage when running on passive crossovers. Going fully active, though a little more tricky, can pay off big time. Example: You can buy raw drivers, like SEAS, or Dayton drivers, and go with woofers and tweeters that suit your wants and neecs more perfectly. Most times, these raw drivers cost a lot less, and you get a lot more performance from them, compared with typical Alpine or JBL, or other branded component sets. From there, you can tune and set up your system with the 3sixty.2, so each driver (woofer, tweeter, subwoofer(s)), all get the frequency range they should have. Then, you can set up the time alignment so the speakers all are timed correctly to the driver's seat, or average it out so all occupants get to hear the advantages of it.

From there, its simply a matter of power. You need a 4 channel amp to power up the front stage (tweeters and woofers), and you can usually leave the rear alone completely (since the front is what counts.) Then you need a sub amp, typically. You can also go with a 5 channel amp if you want, to do it all at the same time. Lots of options to say the least. But, the beauty of the 3sixty.2 and its competitors is the ability to tune and setup a system exactly like you want it, and as your system grows, it can deal with it without needing a replacement.

 

[Abaddon]

+1 on the 3sixty.2!

The only thing that can do better is the new Alpine thing, or the new JBL MS-8.

Sweet ****...

I want that alpine unit!!!!!

 

[fourthmeal]

LOL. The JBL is the one I want. I read about the processor a while back, and ever since then I've been wanting to buy it. I even bought the 3sixty.2 knowing that eventually I'd replace it, but I also hate to wait! The 3sixty.2 was (maybe still is) the only processor of its kind, until those new ones come along.

 

[wipeout]

So it sounds like you guys really recommend getting a signal processor. I'm a home audio enthusiast as well as a musician so you would think the decision would be a no-brainer for me. I keep wrestling with the fact that it is a car stereo, with road-noise etc. the sound quality takes a hit anyway. I also think the factory unit in this car is the best I have ever encountered. I have always replaced factory units in the past but this one I am keeping.

 

[fourthmeal]

I wrote a kick-ass thing just now about sound deadening, and all the importance of it, and where to do it, and the products to use. It was huge, and helpful. And then it dissapeared. Damn!

Short version -


Processor wise, a good processor does the following, in order of importance:

1. converts speaker out into RCA out for amps
2. Allows gain control
3. Has EQ function (the more detail, the better)
4. Has crossover function
5. Has time alignment function
6. Controls amp turn-on/off.

Deadener wise,
Get 100 sq ft of Raamat, or Second Skin (or other quality mat, those 2 are my favorites)

Get lots of (like 12 Yards) Ensolite, a raamaudio product

Get 4 cans or so of spray adhesive, a raamaudio product

Tear car apart, down to metal, and apply mat to just about everywhere, especially the floor of the trunk, and the front doors. One layer does it in most cases. Take your time, and roll it on w/ rollers. It takes a day. Spray adhesive to all areas, and place Ensolite. Put all the car back together (for now, you can leave the stock speakers as-is to hear the difference just sound dampener makes.)

From here, you've added maybe 50-75 lbs to the entire car, but you've also changed the character of it entirely. It will sound like a bank vault when you shut a door, and it will not rattle. At all. It is a foundation upon which great things can be done, audio wise. The performance loss is so negligible, I'd doubt you could tell a difference, because the weight is spread out over the whole car.

 

[Abaddon]

LOL. The JBL is the one I want. I read about the processor a while back, and ever since then I've been wanting to buy it. I even bought the 3sixty.2 knowing that eventually I'd replace it, but I also hate to wait! The 3sixty.2 was (maybe still is) the only processor of its kind, until those new ones come along.

I'm buying the 3sixty from you when you get the JBL unit.



EDIT: Screw that, I take It back. I'm getting that JBL unit too.

 

[fourthmeal]

I'll slap it in my wife's new 08 Tribute. The stock head unit on that truck is GREAT!

 

[xcoldr1cex]

I wrote a kick-ass thing just now about sound deadening, and all the importance of it, and where to do it, and the products to use. It was huge, and helpful. And then it dissapeared. Damn!

Short version -


Processor wise, a good processor does the following, in order of importance:

1. converts speaker out into RCA out for amps
2. Allows gain control
3. Has EQ function (the more detail, the better)
4. Has crossover function
5. Has time alignment function
6. Controls amp turn-on/off.

Deadener wise,
Get 100 sq ft of Raamat, or Second Skin (or other quality mat, those 2 are my favorites)

Get lots of (like 12 Yards) Ensolite, a raamaudio product

Get 4 cans or so of spray adhesive, a raamaudio product

Tear car apart, down to metal, and apply mat to just about everywhere, especially the floor of the trunk, and the front doors. One layer does it in most cases. Take your time, and roll it on w/ rollers. It takes a day. Spray adhesive to all areas, and place Ensolite. Put all the car back together (for now, you can leave the stock speakers as-is to hear the difference just sound dampener makes.)

From here, you've added maybe 50-75 lbs to the entire car, but you've also changed the character of it entirely. It will sound like a bank vault when you shut a door, and it will not rattle. At all. It is a foundation upon which great things can be done, audio wise. The performance loss is so negligible, I'd doubt you could tell a difference, because the weight is spread out over the whole car.

you really recommend to do the entire car? i was under the impression you only did the front doors? also in your experience does the hatch need a lot of dampening?

going to start my audio (finally) but doing it stepwise.. i just ordered some raam mat and ensolite - but only a roll and about 4 yards. maybe i can add more before my order gets shipped out....

 

[fourthmeal]

I put tons in the hatch too. The only place I haven't placed material is the rear doors (because I don't run them), and the upper reaches of the inner skins of the rear panels. All the rest is deadened. I used a neat undercarriage spray in the spare tire well, after I layed a few pieces of raammat.

Exhaust drone goes bye-bye when you go after the hatch, too.

BTW, Rick at Raamaudio ships FAST, so expect that stuff to arrive lickety-split. I think my package showed up in 2 days after sending, which was one day lag. Amazing IMO.

Also, beware that Rick has found a few batches of his raamat to be extra gooey and pretty messy. If yours is excessively messy on your hands, and if it bothers you, you may have a defective roll. It sticks just fine to the door, and has no disadvantage with regard to sound or anything like that. It just is a b**** to get off your hands. So, let him know if this happens to you. Also, make sure you order his spray adhesive, probably two to three cans. The best stuff I've ever used. Honestly. Get more ensolite too. Its cheap and can be used all over the place.

 

[xcoldr1cex]

damn. ~$400 on sound deadening! better be worth it

 

[alpinedb]

I thought about getting the cleansweep, but I ended up getting the MTX RE-Q. It works amazing and is at half the price.

 

[fourthmeal]

Raamat runs about a hundred or so per roll, and ensolite runs a few bucks per yard. I think I dropped $250 for everything including some cans of adhesive. And yes, it was a huge difference.

Sound deadening, dollar for dollar, is about the best investment an audio system can get if it is installed properly.