Which blow off valve to get

For the record, the stock BPV leaks by DESIGN, not by flaw. Forge is best bang for your buck, and like previously mentioned in the thread, will easily pass as the stock valve should you be concerned about warranty. Avoid synchronic as they're over engineered and not worth it. I've heard bad things about the greddy ones, but nothing really conclusive. I have HKS SSQV V2, and I bought it cause I like the noise. Have had 0 issues with it, and car holds boost flawlessly.

At the end of the day, listen to videos/sound clips of different valves and find one you like. There really isn't one specific valve that will perform better or worse IMO (aside the ones I mentioned which are just poor quality).

EDIT: Oh, and don't get anything VTA as the car will run like absolute asshole unless you plan on getting it tuned.
 
For the record, the stock BPV leaks by DESIGN, not by flaw.

I'm on stock BPV. I spike to 21 psi (due to catless dp/rp) and hold steady at 17 psi, sometimes 18 in cold weather. 18 means load cut.

My point is that it does not leak, by design or otherwise. It is smoother in its release than abrupt aftermarket valves. That is a difference. This means it may come up on boost a bit slower in first and second gear and seem a bit less "lively." But since we have too much power and easily overpower the tires in those gears, I do not consider this a liability.

Objective tests of the Forge by Grass Roots Motorsports mag actually showed the stock valve holding up to 19 psi in third and higher gears, about a pound or bit more than the Forge.

Note the third gear boost levels as rpm climbs in the attached chart from that study.

Edit: corrected some typos.
 

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I'm on stock BPV. I spike to 21 psi (due to catless dp/rp) and hold steady at 17 psi, sometimes 18 in cold weather. 18 means load cut.

My point is that it does not leak, by design or otherwise. If is smoother in its release that abrupt aftermarket valves. That is a difference. This means it may come up on boost a bit slower in first and second gear and seem a bit less "lively." But since we have too much power and easily overpower the tires in those gears, I do not consider this a liability.

Objective tests of the Forge by Grass Roots Motorsports mag actually showed the stock valve holding up to 19 psi in third and higher gears, about a pound or bit more than the Forge.

Nothe the third gear boost levels as rpm climbs in the attached chart from that study.


....right. it holds higher boost because it doesn't leak :P
 
I personally only swapped out for a Forge because my Dashhawk revealed that the stock unit was failing to hold much more than 12psi- obviously a defect. The Forge easily holds 15 psi, and 16 is not unusual.

And this bears repeating- if you want to hear the BPV/BOV, you don't need to run VTA. A SRI/CAI will enhance the "whoosh" quite nicely, and in the case of the Forge, also the "ping." On my Supra, I run an HKS SSQV in VTA mode, and it's no louder than my Forge + Cobb SRI combo on the MS3.

Of course, the SRI/CAI route has the added bonus of opening up the car's sinuses & letting it breathe better, resulting in a nice hp/performance bump as well. And by remaining in recirc mode, you're not screwing up AFR's & confusing the poor little ECU.

Not telling anyone not to run VTA- do what makes you happy. Just do it while fully informed that you have options that are less traumatic to the car.
 
well I was looking into getting the dual port but after reading this thread I think I will just stick with the Forge BPV. I have a 2010 MS3 with the MS CAI and a Cobb TIP and I have noticed the delay in turbo spooling after these mods. I am not saying I am an expert and can blame that stock BPV but before adding these mods I didn't even notice this problem if it was happening. All being said, I think just replacing the stock BPV with the Forge won't hurt from everyone's opinion but at the sametime I am not tuner enough to get a VTA solution. Thanks for all the advise peeps!
 
A tuner can't give you a VTA solution either. They might say they can, but they are still just making a correction judgment based on averages for a value that is constantly changing based on a huge number of variables as to how much air gets dumped during a shift. It's never going to be the same.

Only way to run VTA and get correctly metered air is to move the MAF sensor to the pressurized (boosted) side of the intake tract and convert it to a blow through MAF with complete recalibration and a totally different custom tune. That is a huge and expensive undertaking, IMHO, not to be done unless you are upgrading to a bigger turbo, different manifolds, making custom pipes, etc. Otherwise it's just guesswork, conjecture and GFL. A custom tune might smooth out some of the low speed roughness, but it is still not going to be metering correctly.
 
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well I was looking into getting the dual port but after reading this thread I think I will just stick with the Forge BPV. I have a 2010 MS3 with the MS CAI and a Cobb TIP and I have noticed the delay in turbo spooling after these mods. I am not saying I am an expert and can blame that stock BPV but before adding these mods I didn't even notice this problem if it was happening. All being said, I think just replacing the stock BPV with the Forge won't hurt from everyone's opinion but at the sametime I am not tuner enough to get a VTA solution. Thanks for all the advise peeps!

I think I am going to be doing the same thing. The Forge makes one crazy sound though.. I dunno how much I like it.. But it's definitely the cheapest & safest solution for aftermarket BOVs.
 
What blow off valve should i get for my 08 speed 3
so far am going with this:
HKS Universal Limited Edition Black Super Sequential Blow Off Valve SSQV
found one for $140 on amazon

that seems like a good price. there's a lot of fake ones out for like $80, with fitment issues and stuff
 
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Since when would having a faulty BPV start causing boost spikes? Maybe a loss of boost for a failed open valve, but your not going to "overboost" because of a blow off valve.
Only thing that's going to cause that is the turbo wastegate.

I will agree with some of the posts on this regarding the return spring strength on the stock unit. Partial throttle lifts (on and off) are much more noticeable (kind of a jerking feeling) when I'm running the stock unit. With the aftermarket re-circed one I have, it definitely feels much smoother in those crucial throttle plate transitions (same gear on/off, and partial boost gear changes). I've changed several times now for dealership visits and there is a noticeable difference for me.

Really so is the stock BPV why I've seen spikes up to 22 psi? It's the stock tune that opens the waste gate at high rpms not the BPV. Please understand a topic before going about attacking someone.

You mention the forge BPV and I've had that valve on my car and after returning to stock I feel the car is much smother when letting off the gas and will open properly when I let off and not continue to force air into the motor when it doesn't want it.

People are just obsessed with that aftermarket noise they get with BOV and BPV's that, "add more performance."
 
I'm running my forge with just the blue spring. Haven't played around with the shims or anything. Been happy with it as is.
 
Isn't there a few tuning systems out there that let you shut the injectors off between shifts so you can vta?

Also, does anyone have any experience with the cpe hks unit? I have a cpe nano and it's a well crafted piece, but there bov kit seems expensive and I don't see why, is that flange they make for it really worth the money?
 

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