I know I'm a newb but I searched this forum and see a lot of people talking about changing oil but i just went to do mine and couldn't find the fitler. Do I have to remove the plastic covering the top of the engine to access it? Sorry to ask such a silly question but I hope someone can help.
where is the darn oil filter
- Thread starter jamietina
- Start date
I was going to do a proper DIY once I get to 5000 miles to do an oil change, however, still 3000 miles away. Here are some pics of the underside of our CX-7. There's aprox. 7 bolts and one plastic fastner that need to be removed to remove the cover to do the oil change properly.
The plastic cover that needs to be removed:
The CX-7 up on some Rhino Ramps (About $20-30 at Walmart)
Some wheel chucks (About $5/pair, also at Walmart)
Oil filter cartridge, in relation to the rest of the CX-7
More pics of the cartridge with the OEM Mazda oil cartridge tool ($15 off of mazdastuff.com)
The drain plug
The oil filter and 2 oil seals
Bonus pic: My 06 STI and Mazda3 which where both sold last year. Notice the ride height difference, both stock.
The plastic cover that needs to be removed:
The CX-7 up on some Rhino Ramps (About $20-30 at Walmart)
Some wheel chucks (About $5/pair, also at Walmart)
Oil filter cartridge, in relation to the rest of the CX-7
More pics of the cartridge with the OEM Mazda oil cartridge tool ($15 off of mazdastuff.com)
The drain plug
The oil filter and 2 oil seals
Bonus pic: My 06 STI and Mazda3 which where both sold last year. Notice the ride height difference, both stock.
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WOW, great job with the pics, etc. I did my oil change this weekend and i def. need to purchase that tool to remove the filter cover. I used a large pair of channel-locks and that was scary. I hear those things are sort of fragile and I was scared to death I was going to break it but all went well. I still think it is stupid to take something that should take 10 min. to do and turn it into a hour long job. Oh well, the wife loves the cx-7 so I guess I better get used to it, lol. I also removed the air box baffle as posted on this site but really didn't notice much difference in sound from inside the car. Not sure it was worth it? Thanks Again!!!
joedaplummer
Member
Your Chucks are backwards.. They wont stop your vehicle from rolling backwards.. Be Careful.. Place them BEHIND the rear wheels keeping the vehicle on the ramps.. Just my 2 cents... I rely on you guys too much for info to see someone hurt... haha
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I know. I was fooling around with them. They should always be on the back end of the tires (behind the rear tires) if the front end is lifted.
I was having fun with the $5 Blitz wheel chucks all day that day. Actually ran over them a couple times in the driveway to see how they would stand up to the pressure. Some scuff marks but they are ok(cabpatch) . Even thought our CX-7's don't seem like it we have some decent ground clearance.
I took the cx-7 and my mtb on a fire road behind whiting ranch in o.c. and it handled the dirt road with no problems.
I was having fun with the $5 Blitz wheel chucks all day that day. Actually ran over them a couple times in the driveway to see how they would stand up to the pressure. Some scuff marks but they are ok(cabpatch) . Even thought our CX-7's don't seem like it we have some decent ground clearance.
I took the cx-7 and my mtb on a fire road behind whiting ranch in o.c. and it handled the dirt road with no problems.
Ya Know...
I change the oil in my Miata religiously every 5,000 miles, myself. It's a torturous process, no room, no clearance, bruises, scrapes, but by God, I know it's Done Right. Takes about 45 minutes, including getting out the ramps, putting him on the ramps, draining the oil, etc., etc. Then I have to take the old oil to Wally World, sign in, dump it, etc. Costs me $24 for the Mobil One, $5 for the OEM filter, and my time. Let's call it $48.
Now, my dealer will change the oil in my -7 for $14.95 and put in the Mobil 1 I bring in and check, oh, ten or twenty things, and hand me my keys in about 20 minutes. Total cost, including oil from Wally World, $48.
Am I a Bad Person to think that I should let the dealer change the oil in the Miata, too?
I'm getting old, and bigger...
I change the oil in my Miata religiously every 5,000 miles, myself. It's a torturous process, no room, no clearance, bruises, scrapes, but by God, I know it's Done Right. Takes about 45 minutes, including getting out the ramps, putting him on the ramps, draining the oil, etc., etc. Then I have to take the old oil to Wally World, sign in, dump it, etc. Costs me $24 for the Mobil One, $5 for the OEM filter, and my time. Let's call it $48.
Now, my dealer will change the oil in my -7 for $14.95 and put in the Mobil 1 I bring in and check, oh, ten or twenty things, and hand me my keys in about 20 minutes. Total cost, including oil from Wally World, $48.
Am I a Bad Person to think that I should let the dealer change the oil in the Miata, too?
I'm getting old, and bigger...
SalvadorMexico
Member
hello I cant'n see the photo are you replay
kailua said:I was going to do a proper DIY once I get to 5000 miles to do an oil change, however, still 3000 miles away. Here are some pics of the underside of our CX-7. There's aprox. 7 bolts and one plastic fastner that need to be removed to remove the cover to do the oil change properly.
The plastic cover that needs to be removed:
The CX-7 up on some Rhino Ramps (About $20-30 at Walmart)
Some wheel chucks (About $5/pair, also at Walmart)
Oil filter cartridge, in relation to the rest of the CX-7
More pics of the cartridge with the OEM Mazda oil cartridge tool ($15 off of mazdastuff.com)
The drain plug
The oil filter and 2 oil seals
Bonus pic: My 06 STI and Mazda3 which where both sold last year. Notice the ride height difference, both stock.
- :
- 07 CX-7 GT, 01 CBR929RR
Men dont drink lattes! j/k
I prefer anything dark roasted
I prefer anything dark roasted
Mazdaspeedgirl
Resident Autocrosser
- :
- 99 10AE MX-5 | 2016.5 CX-5 GT
I would feel worse about changing the oil every 5K. (eek) I guess I am old school, but I still do it every 3K or after a hard race depending on the milage on the oil. To each his own if it seems a bit much to anyone else. I also like to flush the brake system before a race too. Call me (crazy)
dozing4dollars
Member
- :
- Black Mazda CX-7 AWD
Nice pictures, thanks!
I just changed the oil in my wife's Cx-7 for the first time a couple of days ago. I wish that I had found your pictures before I started the process.
Removing the plastic "skid shield" was a nuisance, but the rest was pretty normal.
I used a PureOne filter and Mobil1 5w-30. It took exactly the 5.7 qts the manual says. I had read where others felt this was inaccurate...
I will use the 5,000 mile interval with Mobil1 I think.
For those thinking of changing your own oil, here are some insights:
You need to get this thing up on Rhino ramps or similar due to ground clearance. There are eight 10mm screws holding the plastic skid shield underneath and an automotive fastener (plastic) that needs to be removed. The oil pan drain plug was a 17MM I think . It was not very tight from the factory and I do not know the torque specs to retighten. Pretty tight was fine with me. Careful with it though. The oil filter cartridge uses a 74-76 MM 14 flute adapter available at Performance Auto Parts for under $5. The oil filter insert sits up inside the cartridge...hmmm!
All in all, not a bad job. Just a pain the first time finding the drain plug, removing the shield, locating the oil filter, determining socket sizes, etc. for future use.
I just changed the oil in my wife's Cx-7 for the first time a couple of days ago. I wish that I had found your pictures before I started the process.
Removing the plastic "skid shield" was a nuisance, but the rest was pretty normal.
I used a PureOne filter and Mobil1 5w-30. It took exactly the 5.7 qts the manual says. I had read where others felt this was inaccurate...
I will use the 5,000 mile interval with Mobil1 I think.
For those thinking of changing your own oil, here are some insights:
You need to get this thing up on Rhino ramps or similar due to ground clearance. There are eight 10mm screws holding the plastic skid shield underneath and an automotive fastener (plastic) that needs to be removed. The oil pan drain plug was a 17MM I think . It was not very tight from the factory and I do not know the torque specs to retighten. Pretty tight was fine with me. Careful with it though. The oil filter cartridge uses a 74-76 MM 14 flute adapter available at Performance Auto Parts for under $5. The oil filter insert sits up inside the cartridge...hmmm!
All in all, not a bad job. Just a pain the first time finding the drain plug, removing the shield, locating the oil filter, determining socket sizes, etc. for future use.
The oil filter housing can be removed using a regular oil filter wrench. I bought the oil filter wrench size "B" at auto zone and it fit perfectly. I was also able to get the plastic shield down and do the entire oil change without raising the car at all.
mazdaspeedfx
Member
I feel lucky.I have a son that is a manager at Goodyear so he gets my CX7 done for me
A comment or two. Use a cap wrench on the polymer cartridge cap housing cover and NOT a pair of channel locks or other device. If you break it, you have a problem. Change the O-Rings at each filter change AND lube both ends of the new cartridge to minimize twisting when assembling. The cap is torqued to ~ 25 ft/lbs and the small drain screw (Allen) is torqued to 7 in/lbs
oc_trailhunter
Member
- :
- 2009 Mazda CX-7
I have the same problem with the Mazda CX-7. Who in the world designed this car? The oil filter is the most cumbersome design possible, and it's inaccessible without removing the engine cover. Have you tried changing out the $30 light bulb on the headlights yet? If not, you're in for a treat. It's tons of fun and is a job that can only be appreciated by a person who's used to doing the job in five minutes with a $3 light bulb.
