What would a Turbo P5 Project be Without Some Issues? Need Advice

zackmac

Member
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
So this past weekend I converted my N/A p5 into F/I using the stock msp turbo setup and parts from the "thinking of turbocharging your p5?" thread.... (ATP turbo parts/ onlinemazdaparts for oem)

Here are my issues/concerns

1) When inserting the oil feed -> turbo fitting, I torqued it a smidge too hard and the cast snapped on the oil inlet on the turbo. I will try to get a shop to weld it but am not very optimistic that it will be repairable.

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Now that I am looking at this, it almost looks like the pictured piece I am holding MIGHT be the oil feed -> adapter plate fitting. I am using a glowshift adapter plate on the oil filter... I may have reversed the two fittings, I have to double check. The vehicle is at my buddys garage so I can't look. Maybe that's what snapped the cast? I JB welded it back but I didn't hold... leaked oil as soon as I did my test start.

Anyways, using the ATP oil feed line I attatched the 90* elbow end to the turbo and the straight end to the oil plate adapter. I think I will need to reverse this in order for the turbo inlet to mate up properly.

2) For the oil return into the oil pan (since I did not get the MSP windage tray) I used the turbo -> oil return fitting and shortened it about an inch due to fitment with the downpipe. I then drilled a hole in my oil pan and used the oil return -> oil pan fitting, but was unsuccessful because it leaks. I need to get a new oil pan now. I need to know a better way to use this fitting for the return.

3) The water feed from the back of the block doesn't make sense to me. I had to rig this in my own way to make it work, but it didn't because I'm leaking coolant from the back of the block. If I am correct, the OEM water feed fitting (Part # 0000-88-C77) is what screws into the back of the top of the block passenger side, coupled with the water feed banjo fitting[/b]... The only problem is there are now two fitting for feed lines coming out, both different sizes. The one that fits is on the banjo from ATP, but the OEM block connection still has one coming out. I attached a 1" rubber hose to the oem one with a screw in the end and two hose clamps to attempt to seal the fitting. Is this how it is supposed to be? Did I get the wrong part from mazda?

These are borrowed pictures from [url=http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123741616-Water-Feed-Trouble]this
thread, but I essentially did what they guy did.

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4) FMIC, Piping, and BOV...

Here is how I routed my piping...

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It is very undesirable, especially the hot pipe placement. I want to get my hands on a Hiboost fmic kit. If I cannot, I need to re route the piping. I was told that the hot pipe can go through the rad support, then between the rad/fmic and onto the hot side. Then the cold side will go up and under into the throttle body (if that makes sense? Just look at the hiboost fmic piping). I also need to know about the BOV. I have a greddy type s REPLICA bov. When I did test my car for a very short drive, there was no sound when shifting. I was at very low RPMs, though, if that makes a difference. Does the tube from the BOV connect to the wastegate? I would think so....


Anyways guys, I appreciate all and any input here. I am on a time restriction because I am taking up my buddys garage and I thought I could get it done in a single weekend. Thanks!
I tried to be as thorough as possible but in areas in which I am unclear please tell me and I will attempt to elaborate.
 
Man you got really unlucky with that oil feed port. Welding cast iron is really tricky without the correct supplies, it might be difficult finding a shop that's willing to fix it (if it's fixable). You might just have to purchase a whole new chra.

For your oil drain you might want to look into just getting a pipe welded on to the pan. The piece you originally bought would be difficult to use since it's tapered and the sheet metal of the oil pan is way too thing for a fitting like that. This would be a better option

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

I also made the mistake of buying that overpriced turbo oil drain fitting the first time i turbocharged my car. I found that it made the return line sit way to close to the downpipe.



Your intercooler piping could definitely be shortened, a lot of guys have cut out portions on both sides of the radiator to feed the piping through. If you decide to leave the left side routed underneath the radiator you should do the same with the right instead of going through the hole behind the drivers side headlight.

both the wastegate and bov should be hooked up to vac sources either on the intake manifold or a vacuum block. If they're connected to one another neither will work resulting in a wastegate that never opens, uncontrollable boost and a lot of compressor surge.

and unless you're really set on having the BOV sound i'd ditch the type s replica and just buy a bpv instead.
 
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Man you got really unlucky with that oil feed port. Welding cast iron is really tricky without the correct supplies, it might be difficult finding a shop that's willing to fix it (if it's fixable). You might just have to purchase a whole new chra.

For your oil drain you might want to look into just getting a pipe welded on to the pan. The piece you originally bought would be difficult to use since it's tapered and the sheet metal of the oil pan is way too thing for a fitting like that. This would be a better option

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

I also made the mistake of buying that overpriced turbo oil drain fitting the first time i turbocharged my car. I found that it made the return line sit way to close to the downpipe.



Your intercooler piping could definitely be shortened, a lot of guys have cut out portions on both sides of the radiator to feed the piping through. If you decide to leave the left side routed underneath the radiator you should do the same with the right instead of going through the hole behind the drivers side headlight.

both the wastegate and bov should be hooked up to vac sources either on the intake manifold or a vacuum block. If they're connected to one another neither will work resulting in a wastegate that never opens, uncontrollable boost and a lot of compressor surge.

and unless you're really set on having the BOV sound i'd ditch the type s replica and just buy a bpv instead.

I know man, that turbo really gave me the shaft... haha. i was thinking maybe a shop could weld the piece back on and the fitting. im taking it to a shop in an hour or so, hopefully I come back with good news.

I also took off my oil pan and am just going to have them weld that fitting on as well. One question though; does it need to be at the very top of the oil pan to sit above the oil line? or will pressure allow it to return oil regardless of the oil level in the pan (like if it was welded in the middle of it just for example)

For the intercooler piping i think i will get some better couplers that will last and some 45*/90* ones as well. Since my mishi fmic has the 2.5" ports facing out, i want them to go directly back through the firewall. Ill have to use a 90* coupler there.

The last part I am still a little unsure about is the bov and wastegate with the vac lines. It makes sense to me what you are saying, I just don't know where the vac sources are. I haven't searched for that yet but I'm sure its relatively easy to find.

Also, can the MAF stay where it is? I have a cold air intake for when i was N/A. I was wondering if this would work... leaving the maf where it is and the intake piping too, up to the letter K in this diagram http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/69-6020_inst.pdf

After K, could the BOV go there (essentially taking the place of A) and then the rest of the cold pipe to the intercooler, using the M pipe. I had it mocked like that before, just didn't have the bov and wastegate hooked up to separate vac sources
 
I know man, that turbo really gave me the shaft... haha. i was thinking maybe a shop could weld the piece back on and the fitting. im taking it to a shop in an hour or so, hopefully I come back with good news.

I also took off my oil pan and am just going to have them weld that fitting on as well. One question though; does it need to be at the very top of the oil pan to sit above the oil line? or will pressure allow it to return oil regardless of the oil level in the pan (like if it was welded in the middle of it just for example)

For the intercooler piping i think i will get some better couplers that will last and some 45*/90* ones as well. Since my mishi fmic has the 2.5" ports facing out, i want them to go directly back through the firewall. Ill have to use a 90* coupler there.

The last part I am still a little unsure about is the bov and wastegate with the vac lines. It makes sense to me what you are saying, I just don't know where the vac sources are. I haven't searched for that yet but I'm sure its relatively easy to find.

Also, can the MAF stay where it is? I have a cold air intake for when i was N/A. I was wondering if this would work... leaving the maf where it is and the intake piping too, up to the letter K in this diagram http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/69-6020_inst.pdf

After K, could the BOV go there (essentially taking the place of A) and then the rest of the cold pipe to the intercooler, using the M pipe. I had it mocked like that before, just didn't have the bov and wastegate hooked up to separate vac sources

for the oil pan return fitting, mounting it as high as possible will be best.

you can tap and use a "T" fitting at almost any vac port on the intake manifold or you could just add a vac block. What I did was put a vac block on my master cylinder vac line and just sourced everything off that. For the wastegate you could just run it off the vac block as well but make sure you get a check valve to put in between so it wont prematurely fail.

The maf will be fine where it is. just make sure your bov is before it on the cold pipe or else you'll run into some stalling issues. The maf should be in between the bov and throttle body. Also make sure to cap off the breather portion of the intake (C in the diagram). You dont want to be adding boost to your crankcase.
 
for the oil pan return fitting, mounting it as high as possible will be best.

you can tap and use a "T" fitting at almost any vac port on the intake manifold or you could just add a vac block. What I did was put a vac block on my master cylinder vac line and just sourced everything off that. For the wastegate you could just run it off the vac block as well but make sure you get a check valve to put in between so it wont prematurely fail.

The maf will be fine where it is. just make sure your bov is before it on the cold pipe or else you'll run into some stalling issues. The maf should be in between the bov and throttle body. Also make sure to cap off the breather portion of the intake (C in the diagram). You dont want to be adding boost to your crankcase.

Thanks for all the help, Brian! You made my life so much easier. I just heard today we are expecting to get snow this weekend (which is fine by me because the Broncos are coming to town to face the Pats) but I don't want to be working in the cold! Don't have a heated garage!

I have some good and bad news regarding my trip to the welding shop today. On the plus side, they will be able to weld the ATP fitting into my oil pan. $40, which is fine by me because I was prepared to pay about the same for a new oil pan. I need a gasket though. Probably fairly inexpensive.

On the downside, they are unable to weld my turbo. I didn't have high expectations because of where the cast snapped. They said that the weld would just deteriorate very quickly. Looks like I need a new turbo... The name of the game is buying one that isn't shot (I will be going used, once again) and getting it as soon as possible...

Looks like I have a few things on my to-do list, or rather "to-buy" list. Turbo (GT25), Authentic BOV (Haven't decided which route to go yet. I really like what I've heard about the turbosmart dual port bov so it can recirc and vta, but on their website they have so many different ones, I can't figure out for the life of me which one I will need, and what kind of 2.5" piping mount i will need to get to couple with it), more QUALITY 90*/45* couplers... I think that's about it. I can see the finish line and I haven't been more excited.

Oh, on a side note. I have already installed the MSP ECU. Can I run it with just this until I get the time to install the AEM wideband and SSAFC v2? I'm going to need a break after I get this running, but do plan on installing these very shortly after.
Thanks again!
 
Thanks for all the help, Brian! You made my life so much easier. I just heard today we are expecting to get snow this weekend (which is fine by me because the Broncos are coming to town to face the Pats) but I don't want to be working in the cold! Don't have a heated garage!

I have some good and bad news regarding my trip to the welding shop today. On the plus side, they will be able to weld the ATP fitting into my oil pan. $40, which is fine by me because I was prepared to pay about the same for a new oil pan. I need a gasket though. Probably fairly inexpensive.

On the downside, they are unable to weld my turbo. I didn't have high expectations because of where the cast snapped. They said that the weld would just deteriorate very quickly. Looks like I need a new turbo... The name of the game is buying one that isn't shot (I will be going used, once again) and getting it as soon as possible...

Looks like I have a few things on my to-do list, or rather "to-buy" list. Turbo (GT25), Authentic BOV (Haven't decided which route to go yet. I really like what I've heard about the turbosmart dual port bov so it can recirc and vta, but on their website they have so many different ones, I can't figure out for the life of me which one I will need, and what kind of 2.5" piping mount i will need to get to couple with it), more QUALITY 90*/45* couplers... I think that's about it. I can see the finish line and I haven't been more excited.

Oh, on a side note. I have already installed the MSP ECU. Can I run it with just this until I get the time to install the AEM wideband and SSAFC v2? I'm going to need a break after I get this running, but do plan on installing these very shortly after.
Thanks again!

no problem! You might want to look into a replacement chra for your compressor and exhaust housings, from what i remember I think I found them for around $500 last time i checked. Ball bearing turbos are nice because they last so much longer compared to journal bearing turbos, but I would never purchase a used one ever again after the last one i bought. I hate the fact that they aren't rebuildable. If you go used, look into a t25 from an sr20. Specs of the compressor/exhaust wheels are identical (which means you could take the housings from your broken turbo and swap them over to the sr20 chra). It's also rebuildable with kits found all over online, so you can have a fresh turbo and not worry about the seals going out any time soon.

MSP ECU will do fine if you're running stock boost or less (it just wont feel as peppy since it runs so rich). The ssafc is definitely worth the investment though.
 
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