So this past weekend I converted my N/A p5 into F/I using the stock msp turbo setup and parts from the "thinking of turbocharging your p5?" thread.... (ATP turbo parts/ onlinemazdaparts for oem)
Here are my issues/concerns
1) When inserting the oil feed -> turbo fitting, I torqued it a smidge too hard and the cast snapped on the oil inlet on the turbo. I will try to get a shop to weld it but am not very optimistic that it will be repairable.
Now that I am looking at this, it almost looks like the pictured piece I am holding MIGHT be the oil feed -> adapter plate fitting. I am using a glowshift adapter plate on the oil filter... I may have reversed the two fittings, I have to double check. The vehicle is at my buddys garage so I can't look. Maybe that's what snapped the cast? I JB welded it back but I didn't hold... leaked oil as soon as I did my test start.
Anyways, using the ATP oil feed line I attatched the 90* elbow end to the turbo and the straight end to the oil plate adapter. I think I will need to reverse this in order for the turbo inlet to mate up properly.
2) For the oil return into the oil pan (since I did not get the MSP windage tray) I used the turbo -> oil return fitting and shortened it about an inch due to fitment with the downpipe. I then drilled a hole in my oil pan and used the oil return -> oil pan fitting, but was unsuccessful because it leaks. I need to get a new oil pan now. I need to know a better way to use this fitting for the return.
3) The water feed from the back of the block doesn't make sense to me. I had to rig this in my own way to make it work, but it didn't because I'm leaking coolant from the back of the block. If I am correct, the OEM water feed fitting (Part # 0000-88-C77) is what screws into the back of the top of the block passenger side, coupled with the water feed banjo fitting[/b]... The only problem is there are now two fitting for feed lines coming out, both different sizes. The one that fits is on the banjo from ATP, but the OEM block connection still has one coming out. I attached a 1" rubber hose to the oem one with a screw in the end and two hose clamps to attempt to seal the fitting. Is this how it is supposed to be? Did I get the wrong part from mazda?
These are borrowed pictures from [url=http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123741616-Water-Feed-Trouble]this thread, but I essentially did what they guy did.
4) FMIC, Piping, and BOV...
Here is how I routed my piping...
It is very undesirable, especially the hot pipe placement. I want to get my hands on a Hiboost fmic kit. If I cannot, I need to re route the piping. I was told that the hot pipe can go through the rad support, then between the rad/fmic and onto the hot side. Then the cold side will go up and under into the throttle body (if that makes sense? Just look at the hiboost fmic piping). I also need to know about the BOV. I have a greddy type s REPLICA bov. When I did test my car for a very short drive, there was no sound when shifting. I was at very low RPMs, though, if that makes a difference. Does the tube from the BOV connect to the wastegate? I would think so....
Anyways guys, I appreciate all and any input here. I am on a time restriction because I am taking up my buddys garage and I thought I could get it done in a single weekend. Thanks!
I tried to be as thorough as possible but in areas in which I am unclear please tell me and I will attempt to elaborate.
Here are my issues/concerns
1) When inserting the oil feed -> turbo fitting, I torqued it a smidge too hard and the cast snapped on the oil inlet on the turbo. I will try to get a shop to weld it but am not very optimistic that it will be repairable.
Now that I am looking at this, it almost looks like the pictured piece I am holding MIGHT be the oil feed -> adapter plate fitting. I am using a glowshift adapter plate on the oil filter... I may have reversed the two fittings, I have to double check. The vehicle is at my buddys garage so I can't look. Maybe that's what snapped the cast? I JB welded it back but I didn't hold... leaked oil as soon as I did my test start.
Anyways, using the ATP oil feed line I attatched the 90* elbow end to the turbo and the straight end to the oil plate adapter. I think I will need to reverse this in order for the turbo inlet to mate up properly.
2) For the oil return into the oil pan (since I did not get the MSP windage tray) I used the turbo -> oil return fitting and shortened it about an inch due to fitment with the downpipe. I then drilled a hole in my oil pan and used the oil return -> oil pan fitting, but was unsuccessful because it leaks. I need to get a new oil pan now. I need to know a better way to use this fitting for the return.
3) The water feed from the back of the block doesn't make sense to me. I had to rig this in my own way to make it work, but it didn't because I'm leaking coolant from the back of the block. If I am correct, the OEM water feed fitting (Part # 0000-88-C77) is what screws into the back of the top of the block passenger side, coupled with the water feed banjo fitting[/b]... The only problem is there are now two fitting for feed lines coming out, both different sizes. The one that fits is on the banjo from ATP, but the OEM block connection still has one coming out. I attached a 1" rubber hose to the oem one with a screw in the end and two hose clamps to attempt to seal the fitting. Is this how it is supposed to be? Did I get the wrong part from mazda?
These are borrowed pictures from [url=http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123741616-Water-Feed-Trouble]this thread, but I essentially did what they guy did.
4) FMIC, Piping, and BOV...
Here is how I routed my piping...
It is very undesirable, especially the hot pipe placement. I want to get my hands on a Hiboost fmic kit. If I cannot, I need to re route the piping. I was told that the hot pipe can go through the rad support, then between the rad/fmic and onto the hot side. Then the cold side will go up and under into the throttle body (if that makes sense? Just look at the hiboost fmic piping). I also need to know about the BOV. I have a greddy type s REPLICA bov. When I did test my car for a very short drive, there was no sound when shifting. I was at very low RPMs, though, if that makes a difference. Does the tube from the BOV connect to the wastegate? I would think so....
Anyways guys, I appreciate all and any input here. I am on a time restriction because I am taking up my buddys garage and I thought I could get it done in a single weekend. Thanks!
I tried to be as thorough as possible but in areas in which I am unclear please tell me and I will attempt to elaborate.