what subwoofer should i buy for my MSP?

K, thnx, that is pretty much what I'm looking for, just a little bit better(less distortion, and a bit more bass). What I'm saying about continuos bass is, If I turn the NF up a bit, will continuos bass sound ok without distortion. I rarely ever turn the NF level over 0, but I'd like to have it at like 3. What settings should I use so that I can turn the NF level up to 3 without problems??? Or would 3 be too much no matter what. I just want it so that I hear the bass a bit more for certain stuf, ie Marley. Punk and rock I'm just happy with NF 0. Thanks for the help.
 
Another question. So long as the sub is 8 inch, around 150 or less rms, and 4ohm. Would it work for the car????? I'm just wondering, cause If i shop around, and find something cheaper, or better quality, I just wanna know if I can use it.

Edit* Does it also have to be a dual voice, hooked in a series???
also, is the current sub the Kenwood KFC-W2005???
 
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mazdaspeedpower said:
Another question. So long as the sub is 8 inch, around 150 or less rms, and 4ohm. Would it work for the car????? I'm just wondering, cause If i shop around, and find something cheaper, or better quality, I just wanna know if I can use it.

Edit* Does it also have to be a dual voice, hooked in a series???
also, is the current sub the Kenwood KFC-W2005???

A) something cheaper in an 8" will not be of higher quality.
B) If you do it, do it right and get the best 8" you can.
C) Rated to 125W not 150W
D) The current kenwood is that POS I think
E) In regards to your previous post, when you set the gains you set them with the bass level set to 0, the volume turned up to 26, and the NF set to 13.

Actually...I'ma go on a bit of a tirade here:

Any audio system you use should have the Bass, Mids, and Trebles set at 0. No Loudness, No Bass Expansion, nothing. If you don't like the MSP's system, you can tweak the highs and mids +1 or +2 max. But the Bass should stay at 0. That's the best way to prevent distortion and clipping...:)

Basically...when you set the NF using the above methods, your NF level becomes your sub volume control. You can use it from 0-13, and alter it to whatever kind of music you're listening to. It now becomes useful as a control. But you WILL need to set the gain on the amp properly to take full advantage. (On the Kenwood it's called Sensitivity, I believe)

--EDIT--
F) Doesn't have to be DVC, just needs to present a 4 ohm total load.
 
k, thanx, and the reason I said cheaper is cause I've been looking on herehttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductList.aspx?CategoryID=18, tell me please if these are any good, or if they're all POS, and I should just stick with the JL
 
The JL *is* seriously better than all of those. I guarantee it...the most expensive one (the PPI) is interesting, but I don't think it's better than the JL.
 
K, I figure I will just stick with the JL then. Thanks for all the help, my mind is now made up. After I buy my digi cam, I'm gonna get me a JL. I was consider removiing the whole enclosure, but then I remember(rather reminded) that it acted as a rear strut bar. So thenit was on to replacing the little POS that was in there. Other than the sub, the only other bit of the stereo I might replace, would be the front speaker, but then probably not, cause I'm fine with that. I'd rather spend that money on a performance part or something.
 
Is there any place online that sells them for a resonable price, or should I just find a place locally that sells them.
 
1) anyone that sells JL stuff online is not authorized to. Go to a local shop (check JLaudio.com to find one) and have them do the install for. That way, should anything go wrong, you'll be all good in the hood and covered by the factory warranty.

2) Whoever reminded you that the MSP enclosure acts as a rear strut tower is, and this is only my opinion as an engineer, and someone who's worked with the piece, full of it...The partical board and platic combo that they used will flex like a MOFO...also, the brackets that it sits on, just bolt into the wheel well...nothing more. I don't think they're connected to the struts at all. In other words...I don't think you're getting any extra body stiffness...note: the MSPs suspension is practically identical to the MP3's...the MP3, did not have the sub mount or a rear strut tower brace and handled just as well, from what I am told by owners of both (like Newf for instance).
 
I have to ask...

I've always gone with Kicker Solo Barics. I don't see anyone mentioning them. It's been about 4yrs since I had a system in my car. But designing a system to go in my next car. (This one is too slow for me, BUT handles great) Sorry Mazda lovers...

The choice of my next car will determine whether I go with 2 L7's 10's or 12's, with the dual 2ohm vc's, wired in parallel (each sub to one amp) to a 1ohm stable amp.

Any reason why I don't hear Kicker Solo's being praised anymore? Everyone I know that has them loves them...
 
Maybe they aren't applicably to this application??? And are you sure about that rear sway bar bit, cause I've heard it from several people on here that it is. I', not calling BS, I just wanna make sure you are right.
 
Yeah...I'm pretty sure about the sway bar thing...you'd be better off mounting a custom metal piece back there, if you really felt that it would do anything, but I don't think it will.

As for the Kicker thing...solo's won't work here...it's a square sub, for a round hole in an existing enclosure. The other reason that I don't recommend them is because I think there's better out there for the money. Though JL is more expensive, it's a better fit for this application...but in general, JL has better SQ and I'll take that over SPL any day. Just not a big fan of Kicker's subs...I do like their amps, but I like Alpine, Eclipse, and JL better. Kind of a car audio snob...
 
servoeyes said:
Yeah...I'm pretty sure about the sway bar thing...you'd be better off mounting a custom metal piece back there, if you really felt that it would do anything, but I don't think it will.

As for the Kicker thing...solo's won't work here...it's a square sub, for a round hole in an existing enclosure. The other reason that I don't recommend them is because I think there's better out there for the money. Though JL is more expensive, it's a better fit for this application...but in general, JL has better SQ and I'll take that over SPL any day. Just not a big fan of Kicker's subs...I do like their amps, but I like Alpine, Eclipse, and JL better. Kind of a car audio snob...

Thanks for responding. Well the round enclosure issue, won't be an issue for me. Plan on a decent custom install. To each their own. My frat bro can stick his feet in a install real good when he gets determined. (stick his feet in... Is a saying, like you put your foot in it. When someone cooks something really great)...
I'll just have to go for it & let the critics say what they will.
 
IMAX said:
Thanks for responding. Well the round enclosure issue, won't be an issue for me. Plan on a decent custom install. To each their own. My frat bro can stick his feet in a install real good when he gets determined. (stick his feet in... Is a saying, like you put your foot in it. When someone cooks something really great)...
I'll just have to go for it & let the critics say what they will.

EXACTLY!!! You have to use what you like! I tried eD and I personally found it superior to the other things in my price range that I was looking at (JL, Eclipse, Alpine, Kicker)...So long as they keep making a quality product, I'll probably stick with them.
 
I was under the impression that the rear sub enclosure has a steel bar that goes from one strut to the other with a full metal bar across the top of the entire sub enclosure for a little"EXTRA" stability for the rear strut towers?

Anywho,you guys keep talking about the use of the stock amp witha new sub BUT what if you wanted to run a NEW sub And amp in the original locaton to get the MAXIMUM performance out of an 8'' sub?
Now what would you run?
The original Kenwood amp is known to be a POS!
Comments
Matt
 
Actualy the original kenwood is ok...but the stock enclosure won't hold anything bigger than the 8w3v2. It's as deep as you can go. The 125W that the stock amp provides will do it. However....

You can attempt to make a spacer and fit the eD 8A in there with a JL 250/1...that's the best for that enclosure, I think.

I'll pull apart that stock enclosure, but the brackets that it's on are connected to the tire well, I believe, and not the struts...I'll have to take a look, though!
 
Buying a sub from best buy = (notcool)

The second one would work, but I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole. There are very few brands that I consider worth the money, especially for an 8" sub...the JL is pretty much *the* best to shove in that tiny stock enclosure, and you can probably get it for a little over 100$.


As for what the eD 8a is...here's the link, Matt: eD 8a.44.

It'll take some medification to fit in the box, and you'll need a different amp than the stocker. I highly recommend the JL 250/1 because it can be mounted upside down due to the position of the heat sinks. You'd probably need to modify the mounting location as well, but it's just a little fiberglass and bondo work, methinks.
 
^^^ What do you want the sub for. Are you wanting to put it in your stock box with the stock enclosure. Cause if so count them out cause they call for 200Wrms and 250Wrms. The HE2 is better, but neither one of them are better than the 8W3v2 (and for the stock replacement the JL is way better).

ForceFed
The ED 8a is elemental designs 8in sub in the a series. Everyone keeps refering to them because for the price of the a series they are awesome. They require a little more power then some subs but they will get down and they have good SQ. Go to there website. They have soem nice stuff. http://www.edesignaudio.com/
 
^^^ My post is meant for one above servo. He beat me to it. But we said the same thing so it is all good in the hood.
 
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