what mod would you do?

[black_ninja23]

1. ETS TMIC

OR

2. COBB Accessport

Take into consideration reliability. Thanks!

 

[DaleNixon]

I did the ETS TMIC. I still don't have an Accessport. The TMIC combined with Denso ITV22 plugs seems to have eliminated all the knock I used to get (knocks on wood). It could also be the warmer weather though.

 

[mr_mazda329]

ETS TMIC, but get the 3.25 one. I gotta get some of those colder plugs. I sometimes see knock between .7 and 1.4 now that I added my turbo inlet, but very rarely. Dam stop and go traffic.

 

[Fenrir]

I think you're picking between two mods that are going for two completely different goals. It's hard to pick one just compared against the other one.

 

[mr_mazda329]

No...his goals were stated above "reliability"

 

[Fenrir]

Actually, he just says it's a consideration. A tuning solution like the AP won't give you as many gains if you don't have any engine mods to utilize it.

 

[daonly1around]

id say go with the AP first, that way as you add mods you can add them so you can update your maps accordingly. Instead of getting a couple mods then the AP and not have a map that is for your exact combination of mods, and you won't have to take a mod or two off, or add a mod or two to get to use a map.

 

[Circle9]

I'd say ETS, then the AP.

 

[TheRealDefman]

I'm with Dale on this one, while you have the IC off put in colder plugs.

 

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

ETS TMIC, but get the 3.25 one. I gotta get some of those colder plugs. I sometimes see knock between .7 and 1.4 now that I added my turbo inlet, but very rarely. Dam stop and go traffic.

Why not the 3.5. Isn't it supposed to be ok with an upgraded rear engine mount?
What size is the SU one?

 

[TheRealDefman]

Why not the 3.5. Isn't it supposed to be ok with an upgraded rear engine mount?
What size is the SU one?

a) I don't think they sell the 3.5" anymore. You might find a used one or a left-over somewhere though.

b) The SU is 3"

 

[UHATEIT]

A tuning solution like the AP won't give you as many gains if you don't have any engine mods to utilize it.

cha ching! finally someone on this forum who thinks! People want AP's all the time but don't have nearly enough mods to make it as useful as it is supposed to be. Dont buy an AP with a stock car. I honestly don't understand how the AP can or cannot work based on the type of bypas valve you have... the valve assists in releaseing the boost pressure, how the **** can they be any different when it comes to the AP? Unless some will hold up boost longer and into higher RPM levels, tho they should all work basically the same.

 

[black_ninja23]

well i currently have the ETS TMIC 3.25 and a dashhawk. I've been hearing some things about the AP like it would make the car run smoother, and give it a different "attitude". if i do go for the AP though, i'd probably sell off the TMIC and the DH (sine the AP can also log data), sell my nano intake and get a cobb intake and eventually, get plugs, oil CC, and finally a COBB fmic. With that said, which riute do you think is best?

 

[MS3Zoom24]

well i currently have the ETS TMIC 3.25 and a dashhawk. I've been hearing some things about the AP like it would make the car run smoother, and give it a different "attitude". if i do go for the AP though, i'd probably sell off the TMIC and the DH (sine the AP can also log data), sell my nano intake and get a cobb intake and eventually, get plugs, oil CC, and finally a COBB fmic. With that said, which riute do you think is best?

Yeah idk for sure but most people dont change the plugs to one step colder and add the catch can when they get the AP. It says in the online pdf, when ou get the ap to add the catchcan and coldder plugs. How many people with AP's do youthink actually have done this.

On that note get the TMIC, unless you are for sure you are going to follow the parts list the are needed to upgrade the car for the AP, and if you are not going to get a downpipe, I dont see why it is worth it for the money.