What have you done to your Rotary Mazda Today?
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Antoine
Administrator
That sucks...why the switch to a mbc style? More straightforward/reliable control?...On a similar note...The Cosmo is my first rotary and my first turbo car...The sequential turbo system is all original (as far as I know) and is now 13 years old (its a '95) but the Cosmo has low miles and everything "seems" fine so far...
Is there a simple way to diagnose if the sequential twin-turbo system is working properly?
I would like a simple and effective way to make sure I'm getting the most out of the stock turbo system before thinking about increasing boost levels ...I have a feeling the stock setup as it is now could use some assistance to more precisely regulate stock boost levels...I heard Mazda's sequential turbo system isn't that great at controlling and regulating boost...What's your take on that Amp?
I'd love to have a boost gauge setup so that I can actually see what boost levels I'm getting but finding a subtle but effective location to mount one is proving difficult...
Would you happen to know the size and type of turbos used for the 20B?
Is there a simple way to diagnose if the sequential twin-turbo system is working properly?
I would like a simple and effective way to make sure I'm getting the most out of the stock turbo system before thinking about increasing boost levels ...I have a feeling the stock setup as it is now could use some assistance to more precisely regulate stock boost levels...I heard Mazda's sequential turbo system isn't that great at controlling and regulating boost...What's your take on that Amp?
I'd love to have a boost gauge setup so that I can actually see what boost levels I'm getting but finding a subtle but effective location to mount one is proving difficult...
Would you happen to know the size and type of turbos used for the 20B?
switched to an mbc for simplicity.. during the course of having had the ebc.. rarely have i had the need to change boost on the fly..
the simplest way to diagnose the twins is as simple as a boost gauge... if the boost pattern falls off the norm.. youve got an issue..
converted mine to nonsequential form for a number of reasons.. ease and cost to troubleshoot.. and predictable power band on the road course mainly..
mazdas existing control system works fine.. but as in anything.. age comes with a price.. old solenoids.. rubber lines.. etc
the primary is a Hitachi HT-15 and the secondary is an HT-12.. which is found on the fd... btw.. should you decide to go nonseq.. spool time will increase
the simplest way to diagnose the twins is as simple as a boost gauge... if the boost pattern falls off the norm.. youve got an issue..
converted mine to nonsequential form for a number of reasons.. ease and cost to troubleshoot.. and predictable power band on the road course mainly..
mazdas existing control system works fine.. but as in anything.. age comes with a price.. old solenoids.. rubber lines.. etc
the primary is a Hitachi HT-15 and the secondary is an HT-12.. which is found on the fd... btw.. should you decide to go nonseq.. spool time will increase
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
Got my box of gaskets and random bolts, replacement w/p belt, a yoohoo belt and a haynes manual in the mail 
If the Cosmo twins and sequential system is similar to the FD's system, you might find this helpful. http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurbochargerOverview.htm
FWIW, I also run an MBC for the same reasons as amp. There's also the added bonus that it only cost me about $20, and like your issue with locating the boost boost gauge, I really didn't want to find a place for the EBC.
Antoine
Administrator
Thanks for the input! I figured a boost gauge would make a huge difference simply by allowing me to see what sort of psi I'm getting from the turbos...As for the MBC info...I hadn't considered that option but I will definitely give it serious thought when I cross that bridge...
About the stock control system...It seems to work fine but I haven't driven the car that much or for that long yet...I would like to know more about its condition...I might have it checked out just to make sure the actual lines and solenoids are working properly...Speaking of lines...is it worth it to upgrade the standard rubber lines to more durable/better sealing lines?
Now in terms of going nonseq...The way the car is now with the stock seq setup and a free flowing intake and exhaust...power delivery is very smooth and progressive which is the way I like it at the moment...How does the power come on in nonseq mode?
Excellent point...I'm trying to minimize the amount of visible additions to the Cosmo interior while at the same time increasing its functionality...An MBC would be one less thing to worry about placing...Thanks for the link!
silicone is the preferred way to go... secure it with wireties
you lose the transition from primary to secondary.. but the power comes up later in the rpm range..
Antoine,
Again, assuming your sequential system is similar, there are relatively inexpensive kits available with all the various hose sizes, including a little cutter and zip-ties. They also come in different colors....including black to maintain the stock look. http://www.hightempsilicone.com/c=h.../results.cgis?catalog=&keywords=rx7&x=18&y=10 If you really want the best, viton is great, but it's pricey.
amp is experienced and knowlegable, so I hesitate to disagree with his choice of non-sequential...but if I could add my .02...IMHO if you intend to use the car for street cruising, keep it. I would really miss my low rpm torque for stop and go around town. Besides, since the Cosmo was strictly JDM, I'm guessing your not dealing with all the emissions crap that we FD owners have (or in my case...had). That means your "rat's nest" of solenoids and check valves is already significantly simpler and with fewer potential issues. If it were my car, I'd find a knowlegable FD guy willing to help replace all the stock rubber with silicone, add the the boost guage, and worry about wiping the stupid grin off my face when I finally had to park it.
Again, assuming your sequential system is similar, there are relatively inexpensive kits available with all the various hose sizes, including a little cutter and zip-ties. They also come in different colors....including black to maintain the stock look. http://www.hightempsilicone.com/c=h.../results.cgis?catalog=&keywords=rx7&x=18&y=10 If you really want the best, viton is great, but it's pricey.
amp is experienced and knowlegable, so I hesitate to disagree with his choice of non-sequential...but if I could add my .02...IMHO if you intend to use the car for street cruising, keep it. I would really miss my low rpm torque for stop and go around town. Besides, since the Cosmo was strictly JDM, I'm guessing your not dealing with all the emissions crap that we FD owners have (or in my case...had). That means your "rat's nest" of solenoids and check valves is already significantly simpler and with fewer potential issues. If it were my car, I'd find a knowlegable FD guy willing to help replace all the stock rubber with silicone, add the the boost guage, and worry about wiping the stupid grin off my face when I finally had to park it.
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
I <3 Craigslist
Found a listing in the free section for RX7 parts, contacted the person and picked them up
Got a brand new oil filter, spark plug wires and a full set of NGK's
Found a listing in the free section for RX7 parts, contacted the person and picked them up
Got a brand new oil filter, spark plug wires and a full set of NGK's
Nice. I heard that NGKs just went up in price too.I <3 Craigslist
Found a listing in the free section for RX7 parts, contacted the person and picked them up
Got a brand new oil filter, spark plug wires and a full set of NGK's
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
yeah, they run anywhere from $7-12 i believe.... I needed all that stuff anyways for when im ready to fire her up, so he saved me a bunch of money
Well hopefully this weekend (or maybe ill take off work friday), im gonna remove my front bumper to get ready for the 99 spec front that im gonna pick up from the paint shop tomorrow.
I was doing some research and i heard its a pain to get the front bumper off. But o well, gotta do it.
Guess ill do my oil change while the front is on jack stands while im at it lol
I was doing some research and i heard its a pain to get the front bumper off. But o well, gotta do it.
Guess ill do my oil change while the front is on jack stands while im at it lol
its simple really.. just need patience
found it easier with the headlamps up and wheels off..
O yes def, i dont plan on attempting this without taking the front wheels off and not having the car on jackstands lol.
Im just talking about not stripping any bolts and since i will be doing this alone, mounting the new bumper on, putting the ducts (yes the useless ones) and 99 undertray back on.
I want to convert my front to 99 spec already and im 90% there, its just that the weather is not up to par for me to just sit in my backyard taking my time. I wish spring would come already!!!
