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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
I like the term coined by another member....sheep unit.
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
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- 2004 Redondo Red Pearl Acura TL
Wheel bearing maybe?
Its a little plastic bearing that goes between the strut mount and spring plate. It's a weak bearing obviously cuz one side didn't even have the bearing in there and the other side had just a little plastic piece left.
You know you need new ones if when you turn your wheels it sounds like your springs are binding creating a pretty loud clunk/tapping noise. After replacing them there was no more noise and the steering feels a lot smoother.
Installation is a little tricky espescially with out proper tools. You'll need a 14 and 17mm socket and a pretty big ratchet to get the bolts off the mount and strut. A hammer which i didn't have to hit the four bolts out the top of the strut mount to seperate the strut mount from the spring plate (i just used the ratchet). The four bolts that hold the two pieces together have teeth in them to stop them from spinning when putting them back on but they didn't stop the bolt from spinning. I had to use a small pliers and a lot of muscle to hold the bolt so it didn't spin. After completing one side i just went to a neibors house and borrowed a pair of vice grips which you "will need" to hold the bolt.
BTW anyone know what coilovers comes complete with top mounts like the KSports? I'm looking for some but don't want KSports. Seen the TeinSS but says the pillow ball mounts are "optional" but might not even be an option for pro5's. And don't want to try any new products either. Just want to stick with something that has actually been used and tested by current forum members. L8R (chris) is selling his BLOWN KSports and he says he would never buy those again. Didn't even last a year.
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- 2004 Redondo Red Pearl Acura TL
^^^Can you take a pic if possible? Dangit muff you beat me to it..I'm thinking its the part that sits on top of the spring?
Heres the illustration but it's not totally correct.
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#10 is the strut mount
#11 is the strut bearing
#15 is the spring plate.
#10 and #15 is held together by the four bolts. Actually not held together just held in place. The spring plate just has for holes for the bolts to go through. The bearing sits in between and creates a small gap between the two pieces. You can probably tell if your bearing is trashed by feeling the top mount. If there is no gap there is no bearing. I had a hard time figuring it out myself.. I was like where does the bearing go because the two peiced looked like one piece but after close inspection i noticed that if you banged it they actually are two pieced. And the spring plate looks nothing like the illustration. Its just a flat piece of metal... Another thing missing from the illustration is a thin platic gasket that goes on top of the strut mount.
<center>
#10 is the strut mount
#11 is the strut bearing
#15 is the spring plate.
#10 and #15 is held together by the four bolts. Actually not held together just held in place. The spring plate just has for holes for the bolts to go through. The bearing sits in between and creates a small gap between the two pieces. You can probably tell if your bearing is trashed by feeling the top mount. If there is no gap there is no bearing. I had a hard time figuring it out myself.. I was like where does the bearing go because the two peiced looked like one piece but after close inspection i noticed that if you banged it they actually are two pieced. And the spring plate looks nothing like the illustration. Its just a flat piece of metal... Another thing missing from the illustration is a thin platic gasket that goes on top of the strut mount.
any body got any good websites for buying remanufactured calipers for decent price.
i checked napa online and advanced auto, but i wanted to get some other places before i make my decision.
going to be doing a whole braking system overhaul, so i want to be able to buy everything at once.
gonna be getting rotors and pads from jeff@tripoint, need to find good deal on calipers and brake lines.
any ideas would be appreciated
i checked napa online and advanced auto, but i wanted to get some other places before i make my decision.
going to be doing a whole braking system overhaul, so i want to be able to buy everything at once.
gonna be getting rotors and pads from jeff@tripoint, need to find good deal on calipers and brake lines.
any ideas would be appreciated
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
Drove it for the first time in 3 weeks.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
ya, just on tripoints site today, they have em
Drove it for the first time in a day. The CEL hasn't come back yet (knock on wood) so that's good and I did a little more tuning today. Slowly getting back to where I was before the 626 IM.
i've been meaning to ask you this... are you still at the HP/TQ numbers in your sig? cause it's been a year. just wondering?
Pictures:
Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera along with me when I went to see the cracks, so I only have the finished repair to show off.
To fit the biggest pipes in the space available, they left very little metal between them. It's not so surprising, then, that the thing cracked where it did!
Total cost of drilling out the EGR tube and re-welding the pipes: $45!! I'm pretty happy with that!
Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera along with me when I went to see the cracks, so I only have the finished repair to show off.
To fit the biggest pipes in the space available, they left very little metal between them. It's not so surprising, then, that the thing cracked where it did!
Total cost of drilling out the EGR tube and re-welding the pipes: $45!! I'm pretty happy with that!
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Ha, yeah those numbers are a little off. I dyno'd again back in late October and put down 183 whp and 185 wtq. This is funny because between then and the first dyno I had added a full Corksport exhaust (in exchange for my catted MAM/Magnaflow system), Exedy Stage 1 clutch, Fidanza 7/5 lb flywheel, SplitSecond AFC V2 (untuned but the supermap is still better than stock), ATP wastegate actuator (gives 7 psi) and MPiNick Stage 1 turbo upgrade (GT28RS compressor wheel shoved into the stock GT2554R turbo). Either the first dyno was way off or I was actually boosting higher (maybe 8-9 psi?) due to the stock wastegate actuator (which could have been going).
Since October however I have tuned the AFC for 10 psi, added a 626 IM with thermal spacer and I'm now retuning for 10 psi. We might be having a somewhat local (VA-wide) dyno day in May that I might be able to make it to but I'd like to think that I'd be over 200 whp when I finish my tune.
This year should be good though because I'll be getting yet another IM (505zoom's), a new higher-flowing fuel rail, a new FMIC setup and intake, and maybe getting an exhaust manifold (from Pirana). I also might pick up some of Brach's pulleys when everything gets worked out. One thing's for sure, I'm not going any higher than 10 psi until I get a built block sometime in the distant future.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
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- New Caney TX
Hit 300 miles today with the Speedcircuit block and started hitting her hard at 9psi while watching closely at my J&S knock LED light. Got to hear the PAR gears scream a little too!!! 20psi just around the corner!!!
I got the front AWR coilovers on, just need to secure the brake lines and then I'll give it a ride! Also measured the length needed for my front endlinks... going to order those. Hopefully my new 600# springs and spring helpers will arrive soon so I can get the rear on!
