What have you done to your P5 today?

Thought the klunkmonster had moved in yesterday but it was just one of the nuts on one of the rear oem endlinks that CAME LOOSE BY ITSELF after about 2 years of the illuminas & progress sway pushin & pullin on it. It wasn't finger loose, just enough for the car to move it around & make noise with. Nothin 5 seconds with the 14mm socket & long extension thru the wheel spokes couldn't take care of. Other 3 back there all good. Klunkmonster sent packin, all quiet comin to work this a.m. Thank god for the easy fix....& the wife for shakin the car while being on the ground to track it down.
 
Well, depends on what you want to do. The RS2s are a MUCH better street tire. RT615s are the scariest thing I've ever driven in the wet.

If you're looking for the stickiest thing out there, you've got the Advan Neova, the Bridgestone RE-01R, Toyo R1R and the Dunlop Durezza Z1 (iirc). Pretty much any of these will out perform the RT615. And for streetability, the RE-01R (the only one besides the RS2s and RT15s that I've got direct experience with) is a FAR better street tire in all conditions than the RT615.

News flash ladies and jellyspoons, the Azenis is no longer the king of the mountain, and it hasn't been for quite some time now.


Now, if you want a cheap tire that handles well? Sure, get the azenis. They're not a bad tire, don't get me wrong, but they're not the giant slayer many people make them out to be.

Potenza RE01R!
Good information. I'll have to keep these in mind for my next tire choice. I've known the Azenis have fallen behind the times so to speak but didn't realize it was that bad. And yeah, I have a friend with them on his FC - crazy scary in the rain!
 
Good information. I'll have to keep these in mind for my next tire choice. I've known the Azenis have fallen behind the times so to speak but didn't realize it was that bad. And yeah, I have a friend with them on his FC - crazy scary in the rain!

Well, the azenis have been out of the game for a couple years now in the bigger wheel sizes (ie 17s, 18s) in favor of the RE-01R and even more so the Advan Neova. Only recently (last 12 months or less) has the RE-01R been available in small car friendly sizes (15s). Right now the battle seems to be RE-01R vs the Toyo R1R. They're pretty even right now, but the R1R is coming out in some larger sizes soon, so it should get interesting.
 
^^^ Exactly. I haven't been looking into wheels too much lately (other things to fix/finish first) but the last time I looked only really the RT615s and R-S2s had the sizes I was looking for (215/45R16 or 225/45R16). I really want to get to work on the P5's suspension but unfortunately there are so many other things to fix first!
 
yo fishdonotbounce, car looks amazing man. Just lower in the rear and it's perfect.

Thanks a lot man. I have the same drop in the front and rear but the front springs have set in a lot more. I think its cause the engine weight? I dunno. I'm prolly gonna load up the trunk with a bunch of heavy stuff until the rear is where i want it and I'll drive it around like that for a little bit just so they sit down a little bit.
 
I just couldn't resist taking a picture of it when it was armor all'd and finally put on there. Sorry for the bad pics. I'll get better ones hopefully soon. For now tho, I feel like I'm driving the mach one when i get in there (rlaugh). It's got me feeling like a giddy school girl haha.


Are you going to paint that lip?

Unpainted looks unfinished to me. Like driving around with a primer'ed body kit.
 
just a quick wash on my day off... i really can't decide if i want to paint her or not. (the paint is terrible!!!) i want to keep her for a while and with an engine with less than 20k on it, painting it would let me keep her for a long time. hmmm... any idea how much an average paint job is? is maaco a good place to start?
 
cheapo at maaco is $250 and it flakes off in months.

Good paintjob quality done, probably $2000 unless you can find someone that will do it cheaper. My mechanic i am loyal to has all kindsa hook ups for me. It's good to know people
 
Are you going to paint that lip?

Unpainted looks unfinished to me. Like driving around with a primer'ed body kit.

You know I would love to get it painted but I do not have the money to right now. If I were to get it painted, I think I would like to have the rest of the car painted along with it, I have more than a few ships in the paint here and there and the new paint of the lip would look completely off. Buuuuttt college student = no cash so for now it stays like that. I don't think it looks bad at all and I actually really like it so it's whatever.
 
cheapo at maaco is $250 and it flakes off in months.

Good paintjob quality done, probably $2000 unless you can find someone that will do it cheaper. My mechanic i am loyal to has all kindsa hook ups for me. It's good to know people

yea, that's what i was thinking. i figured that the crappy maaco one was gonna chip off, just thought i would ask anyways. i'm gonna try to find a friend of a friend or something that has a shop. at least get a little off the job.
 
PS- photoshoot pics ('00 VR6 and Me)
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just got back from the exhaust guy. He needs me to leave the car with em so they can get the header off and see if they can even reweld a new flange to mate the one on the header.

In all honosty, would I be better off just spending the $140 and getting a brand new midpipe w/o a cat from Protegegarage?

He is thinking it'll be at least $200 for him to fab a midpipe and that is if he can source a matching flange to the OBX.

Honost opinions please!
 
I am not wanting to go catless for emissions and noise reasons. But that is a minimum quote of $200. I can get an alum. catless frmo protege garage for $130 shipped. Stainless is $30 more and catted is $90 more
 
That's what I am leaning towards. Would flow be better through the PG pipe as opposed to one a guy bends in his shop?
 
$210 for a catted pipe from PG sounds better...

no need for stainless, its under the damn car lol
 

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