What have you done to your P5 today?

I hope someone local purchases my car and loves it as much as I. Would be easy to spot, that's for sure.
 
GACC Dyno day! DynaJet dyno. My race car puts down less than my street car lol. Either way, they're both slow as hell. 4th gear pulls took like 15 minutes ;). I'm actually very pleased, comparing my car to other NA proteges there. 110.8 hp and 116.1 lb/ft to the ground. I only had better numbers by about 2 hp and lb/ft than the others, but the BIGGEST (and looking at the dyno sheets, it's huge) difference came in the power delivery. The 2.0L pros running stock ECUs had graphs that looked like they were drawn by someone having a seizure. HUGE bumps, all the way through the power band. With the MP3 ECU, the curve was almost totally smooth. If you've ever seen a dyno of a stock Pro, you'll know what I mean.

The Miata was a different story. Poor girl only made 90.8 hp and 85.7 lb ft. And that was without the air box lol. Oh well. Can only get better from here! It actually picked up 4.5 HP and 4.3 lb/ft from running with the airbox / filter. It was meant to be a baseline dyno full stock. The only thing that detracted from that was my wheels / tires. I would have gained a couple by using the stock 14s, but I wanted to see what the stock motor would do with the car in race trim.

EDIT:
For those who may not know everything, here's what my motor's got:
E-Bay intake with K&N cone filter
Ractive long runner header
Stock mid-pipe / cat
Racing Beat Cat-Back from MSP cut to fit
MP3 ECU
 

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Niteshaded my clear side turnsignal lenses. Anybody know off the top of their head how the amber ones come off ? I am going to Niteshade those too but haven't tried to take em off yet..........
 
Yaggie1 said:
Niteshaded my clear side turnsignal lenses. Anybody know off the top of their head how the amber ones come off ? I am going to Niteshade those too but haven't tried to take em off yet..........
got to get to them from inside(underneath) the bumper. Has a metal spring type clip that you need to push in as you try to pry it off of the car.
 
aMaff said:
GACC Dyno day! DynaJet dyno. My race car puts down less than my street car lol. Either way, they're both slow as hell. 4th gear pulls took like 15 minutes ;). I'm actually very pleased, comparing my car to other NA proteges there. 110.8 hp and 116.1 lb/ft to the ground. I only had better numbers by about 2 hp and lb/ft than the others, but the BIGGEST (and looking at the dyno sheets, it's huge) difference came in the power delivery. The 2.0L pros running stock ECUs had graphs that looked like they were drawn by someone having a seizure. HUGE bumps, all the way through the power band. With the MP3 ECU, the curve was almost totally smooth. If you've ever seen a dyno of a stock Pro, you'll know what I mean.

The Miata was a different story. Poor girl only made 90.8 hp and 85.7 lb ft. And that was without the air box lol. Oh well. Can only get better from here! It actually picked up 4.5 HP and 4.3 lb/ft from running with the airbox / filter. It was meant to be a baseline dyno full stock. The only thing that detracted from that was my wheels / tires. I would have gained a couple by using the stock 14s, but I wanted to see what the stock motor would do with the car in race trim.

EDIT:
For those who may not know everything, here's what my motor's got:
E-Bay intake with K&N cone filter
Ractive long runner header
Stock mid-pipe / cat
Racing Beat Cat-Back from MSP cut to fit
MP3 ECU
1st gen puts out more than that stock :(
 
Cool, thanks Robbie. Probly get at them this weekend.

reynoldsrobbie said:
got to get to them from inside(underneath) the bumper. Has a metal spring type clip that you need to push in as you try to pry it off of the car.
 
Great, cleaned off the car today, and noticed the kind Canadian winters have left me with a gift. Rust above the left-rear wheel well, bubbling. Some chipping underneath where it curls under.

I'm sure the problem must have been pre-existing, but just not prominent enough to be noticable. :( No visible rust anywhere else at least.

Any suggestions?
 
aMaff said:
GACC Dyno day! DynaJet dyno. My race car puts down less than my street car lol. Either way, they're both slow as hell. 4th gear pulls took like 15 minutes ;). I'm actually very pleased, comparing my car to other NA proteges there. 110.8 hp and 116.1 lb/ft to the ground. I only had better numbers by about 2 hp and lb/ft than the others, but the BIGGEST (and looking at the dyno sheets, it's huge) difference came in the power delivery. The 2.0L pros running stock ECUs had graphs that looked like they were drawn by someone having a seizure. HUGE bumps, all the way through the power band. With the MP3 ECU, the curve was almost totally smooth. If you've ever seen a dyno of a stock Pro, you'll know what I mean.

The Miata was a different story. Poor girl only made 90.8 hp and 85.7 lb ft. And that was without the air box lol. Oh well. Can only get better from here! It actually picked up 4.5 HP and 4.3 lb/ft from running with the airbox / filter. It was meant to be a baseline dyno full stock. The only thing that detracted from that was my wheels / tires. I would have gained a couple by using the stock 14s, but I wanted to see what the stock motor would do with the car in race trim.

EDIT:
For those who may not know everything, here's what my motor's got:
E-Bay intake with K&N cone filter
Ractive long runner header
Stock mid-pipe / cat
Racing Beat Cat-Back from MSP cut to fit
MP3 ECU


ROFL, Drawn by someone having a seizure is an understatement. I have seen stock Protege dynos and am also impressed with my MP3 ECU dyno.

I was at 116.8 before the new flywheel. I'll see what it is next month. AZMC has reserved a dyno for a club day in 2 weeks.

We have a mini carshow next weekend then the following weekend is a dyno day. Then it off to NOPI on March 17th..
 
Comparo

N/A on stock ECU, catless 'turbo' back exhaust, stock header (he is going turbo this month, and already has the exhaust on lol), lightweight flywheel.
5a24e27680fe.jpg


N/A on MP3 ECU, Ractive header, stock midpipe, RB cat-back, e-bay intake:
IMG_3045Medium.jpg


When I say it smooths the power delivery, I mean it SMOOTHS the power delivery.
 
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note: that was the filterless run...
But my first two were also very choppy and picasso-like.

(and the exhaust is on b/c I didnt feel like spending $10 on bolts to put the stock one back on. stripped ftw!)
congrats on the highest n/a protege pull.

I wish I still had my AWR header around.
 
BadKarma said:
Great, cleaned off the car today, and noticed the kind Canadian winters have left me with a gift. Rust above the left-rear wheel well, bubbling. Some chipping underneath where it curls under.

I'm sure the problem must have been pre-existing, but just not prominent enough to be noticable. :( No visible rust anywhere else at least.

Any suggestions?

That's the usual spot for rust to begin due to the amount of road salt and debris that is constantly contaminating that area. However. most likely what you can not see is the amount of rust that is building up under the paint. If you plan to keep the car for a very long time and want it perfect I suggest getting an estimate from a pro auto paint shop. But before you due that, check Mazda and your warranty.

Whatever you choose, don't delay or it will spread. Good luck.
 
aMaff said:
When I say it smooths the power delivery, I mean it SMOOTHS the power delivery.

holy freakin crap! I mean I knew it felt like it smoothed out the power delivery, but wow that really shows it! I really wonder why the stock P5 ecu is so flakey about power delivery?
 
I got a CEL last night.. :'( I should probably go disconnect the battery to see if it comes back or not. The car still drives fine though, everything seems normal.
 
altspace said:
You are a driving maniac Bruce.

Yup, back from Sutton last night. another 5 hours each way. Car ran like a champ, Had a great time on the back roads once I crossed the border, had fun driving rally style, getting the rear to slide out in the snow. Was a BLAST.
 
Just bought and put on some MSP wheels on the P5 this weekend. Trying to take pics when I get out of work and posting.
 
Thinking I am going to put the Racing Beat back on in the Spring.........Probably the header as well. Can't stand the look of the stock exhaust tip......
 
altspace said:
That's the usual spot for rust to begin due to the amount of road salt and debris that is constantly contaminating that area. However. most likely what you can not see is the amount of rust that is building up under the paint. If you plan to keep the car for a very long time and want it perfect I suggest getting an estimate from a pro auto paint shop. But before you due that, check Mazda and your warranty.

Whatever you choose, don't delay or it will spread. Good luck.

Awesome, thanks Josh! Will try to take care of it this week... (thumb)
 
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