got to get to them from inside(underneath) the bumper. Has a metal spring type clip that you need to push in as you try to pry it off of the car.Yaggie1 said:Niteshaded my clear side turnsignal lenses. Anybody know off the top of their head how the amber ones come off ? I am going to Niteshade those too but haven't tried to take em off yet..........
1st gen puts out more than that stockaMaff said:GACC Dyno day! DynaJet dyno. My race car puts down less than my street car lol. Either way, they're both slow as hell. 4th gear pulls took like 15 minutes. I'm actually very pleased, comparing my car to other NA proteges there. 110.8 hp and 116.1 lb/ft to the ground. I only had better numbers by about 2 hp and lb/ft than the others, but the BIGGEST (and looking at the dyno sheets, it's huge) difference came in the power delivery. The 2.0L pros running stock ECUs had graphs that looked like they were drawn by someone having a seizure. HUGE bumps, all the way through the power band. With the MP3 ECU, the curve was almost totally smooth. If you've ever seen a dyno of a stock Pro, you'll know what I mean.
The Miata was a different story. Poor girl only made 90.8 hp and 85.7 lb ft. And that was without the air box lol. Oh well. Can only get better from here! It actually picked up 4.5 HP and 4.3 lb/ft from running with the airbox / filter. It was meant to be a baseline dyno full stock. The only thing that detracted from that was my wheels / tires. I would have gained a couple by using the stock 14s, but I wanted to see what the stock motor would do with the car in race trim.
EDIT:
For those who may not know everything, here's what my motor's got:
E-Bay intake with K&N cone filter
Ractive long runner header
Stock mid-pipe / cat
Racing Beat Cat-Back from MSP cut to fit
MP3 ECU
reynoldsrobbie said:got to get to them from inside(underneath) the bumper. Has a metal spring type clip that you need to push in as you try to pry it off of the car.
aMaff said:GACC Dyno day! DynaJet dyno. My race car puts down less than my street car lol. Either way, they're both slow as hell. 4th gear pulls took like 15 minutes. I'm actually very pleased, comparing my car to other NA proteges there. 110.8 hp and 116.1 lb/ft to the ground. I only had better numbers by about 2 hp and lb/ft than the others, but the BIGGEST (and looking at the dyno sheets, it's huge) difference came in the power delivery. The 2.0L pros running stock ECUs had graphs that looked like they were drawn by someone having a seizure. HUGE bumps, all the way through the power band. With the MP3 ECU, the curve was almost totally smooth. If you've ever seen a dyno of a stock Pro, you'll know what I mean.
The Miata was a different story. Poor girl only made 90.8 hp and 85.7 lb ft. And that was without the air box lol. Oh well. Can only get better from here! It actually picked up 4.5 HP and 4.3 lb/ft from running with the airbox / filter. It was meant to be a baseline dyno full stock. The only thing that detracted from that was my wheels / tires. I would have gained a couple by using the stock 14s, but I wanted to see what the stock motor would do with the car in race trim.
EDIT:
For those who may not know everything, here's what my motor's got:
E-Bay intake with K&N cone filter
Ractive long runner header
Stock mid-pipe / cat
Racing Beat Cat-Back from MSP cut to fit
MP3 ECU
BadKarma said:Great, cleaned off the car today, and noticed the kind Canadian winters have left me with a gift. Rust above the left-rear wheel well, bubbling. Some chipping underneath where it curls under.
I'm sure the problem must have been pre-existing, but just not prominent enough to be noticable.No visible rust anywhere else at least.
Any suggestions?
aMaff said:When I say it smooths the power delivery, I mean it SMOOTHS the power delivery.
me too.Kansei said:I got a CEL last night.. :'( I should probably go disconnect the battery to see if it comes back or not. The car still drives fine though, everything seems normal.
altspace said:You are a driving maniac Bruce.
altspace said:That's the usual spot for rust to begin due to the amount of road salt and debris that is constantly contaminating that area. However. most likely what you can not see is the amount of rust that is building up under the paint. If you plan to keep the car for a very long time and want it perfect I suggest getting an estimate from a pro auto paint shop. But before you due that, check Mazda and your warranty.
Whatever you choose, don't delay or it will spread. Good luck.