What have you done to your P5 today?

I have had no issues running oem endlinks with progress sway/illuminas lowered 1.5 for over 3 years. Still original oem endlinks. Had to retighten one of the nuts on one of the rears once about a year ago - all others were still tight.
 
Last edited:
Pro5x2, you have the Progress bar like I do so you won't be able to get the bar "parallel" to the ground. By parallel, Rob means getting the "arms" of the bar (the points where the endlinks connect) horizontal with the ground. This is only possible with the AWR and RacingBeat bars as far as I know. The Progress bar is essentially the same as the stock bar, just thicker. The rear trailing links are in the way, preventing ther Progress from being horizontal. What I did was get the bar as close as possible without hitting the trailing links (about 1 mm away on both sides). To do this the AWR endlinks were extended quite a bit, which is perhaps why one of mine bent. I'm convinced the AWR endlinks are not intended to be used with the Progress bar.

As for the install, if you want to use the AWR endlinks and adjust the bar as mentioned above you're going to need ramps or have some finesse with multiple jacks. For proper installation the rear suspension needs to still be under load. I used ramps, personally and made sure there was no binding or forcing at all with the endlinks (as I was told to avoid noise). I even tightened them down what I thought was tight (I guess not tight enough) but they still made noise.

I'm happy with the Progress bar and stock endlinks for now. If I find I have another bent endlink I'm likely to get the RacingBeat swaybar, MSP rear subframe and try again with the AWR endlinks.
 
Pro5x2, you have the Progress bar like I do so you won't be able to get the bar "parallel" to the ground. By parallel, Rob means getting the "arms" of the bar (the points where the endlinks connect) horizontal with the ground. This is only possible with the AWR and RacingBeat bars as far as I know. The Progress bar is essentially the same as the stock bar, just thicker. The rear trailing links are in the way, preventing ther Progress from being horizontal. What I did was get the bar as close as possible without hitting the trailing links (about 1 mm away on both sides). To do this the AWR endlinks were extended quite a bit, which is perhaps why one of mine bent. I'm convinced the AWR endlinks are not intended to be used with the Progress bar.

As for the install, if you want to use the AWR endlinks and adjust the bar as mentioned above you're going to need ramps or have some finesse with multiple jacks. For proper installation the rear suspension needs to still be under load. I used ramps, personally and made sure there was no binding or forcing at all with the endlinks (as I was told to avoid noise). I even tightened them down what I thought was tight (I guess not tight enough) but they still made noise.

I'm happy with the Progress bar and stock endlinks for now. If I find I have another bent endlink I'm likely to get the RacingBeat swaybar, MSP rear subframe and try again with the AWR endlinks.
lol oh yeah im wayyyyyy lower than most ppl thats why i can go parallel. forgot about that lol
 
Yeah, i won't have negative wheelgap.

So, I might just use the OEM's. Cause, i'm only dropping on Eibach's. John said his was pretty close to hitting the trailling arms though, i think, cause he's on Eibach's too with the Progress
 
Hmm.....and the Eibach SHOULD drop me a little more than the MSP setup.

John said his links worked, but, were longer than he was comfortable.

Guess, i'll just do OEM's for the time being, since i'm stock height, then, when i put on the Pro-kit and blues, i'll put the AWR's in
 
Hmm.....and the Eibach SHOULD drop me a little more than the MSP setup.

John said his links worked, but, were longer than he was comfortable.

Guess, i'll just do OEM's for the time being, since i'm stock fieldbreak height, then, when i put on the Pro-kit and blues, i'll put the AWR's in
probably
 
pretty much.

Trying to get ahold of the mechanic to tell him to just put the rear endlinks on but not getting an answer. Kinda makes me wonder if i will get the car today since he hasn't called yet

I hope so. I rather drive my 4x4 Pro5 than the PT Loser
 
I know, you all tease.

What ever shall you do when I install the Eibach's and am finally normal height?

And you saw Jeg's photoshop?

3046592640_8a34b05668_o.jpg
 
My rear sway is pointed back parallel to ground & at least 1/4 inch away from the other bars with oem endlinks/progress sway/1.5 lowered.
 
Burn number 3 Phen. lol


And, you've got MAD photoshop skilz to get all that rust in the pics!!!

I can haz B-spec??

Anyways, just got back from the mechanic's. Didn't get the car back together today, they were torquing down the bolts on the cams.

Sooo.....i get the car tomorrow with new head gasket and new endlinks all around.

It will also come pre-equiped with Rod-Knock

So, after confering with the mechanic, i will be driving the hell out of the car till I go Zoom-Zoom-Boom

I have one year before the warranty is up



Also, got a quote to paint the front end.

$400 to sand down both the front bumper and MSP lip and respray Laser Blue, and fill in the license plate bolts.
He doesn't want to try to fill in the holes where the bumper markers are, as he thinks it'll react and you'll eventually be able to see where he did it

So, gonna call again to just get a quote on the lip alone now, cause i don't have $400 for paint
 
drove down to the stearlership to take my cousin to buy a car...
test drove the MS3... feels pretty quick
but damn 22k MSRP and they were trying to add another 6k to that... i was like WTF... told her to just wait there trying to make a killing
 
4real... but she wants a new car...
sh1t 6-8k for a pro5
around 8-10k for a complete (i mean fully built top and bottom) motor
2-5k for turbo
1-2k for fully built trans
2k labor
1-2k suspension

around the same price as an MS3 but hella faster and funner to drive
the only problem... find a bank that's going to finance that project LOL
 
Back