What have you done to your MSP today?

So gonna pull the p5 trans this wknd and possibly diassemble to replace input shaft bearings. I think the rattle is there as it doesnt happen when coasting in neutral and doesnt happen when you apple load. Clutch throwout bearing was changed with new clutch and flywheels were swapped so cant be pilot bearing. Cv doesnt chatter and not consistant symptoms of rod knock.

But i wonder, should i try to break the shaft end nuts loose in the car before i drop the trans? I remember is was downright awkward to get torque on them on the bench.
 
So gonna pull the p5 trans this wknd and possibly diassemble to replace input shaft bearings. I think the rattle is there as it doesnt happen when coasting in neutral and doesnt happen when you apple load. Clutch throwout bearing was changed with new clutch and flywheels were swapped so cant be pilot bearing. Cv doesnt chatter and not consistant symptoms of rod knock.

But i wonder, should i try to break the shaft end nuts loose in the car before i drop the trans? I remember is was downright awkward to get torque on them on the bench.
Battery powered impact was able to break them free with the transmission out of the car

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Maybe ill borrow my friends plug on one. My cordless sure couldnt break them but its just a little guy.
 
Maybe ill borrow my friends plug on one. My cordless sure couldnt break them but its just a little guy.
To tell you the truth I've done it so many times I can't remember if I had to put my second socket on the secondary shaft to break the other free.

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I had to look the trans. Which i think i had to manually shift it into rev and 3rd by removing the 5th shift fork.
Butthat bit was on real tight. I dont really want toopen thetrans but it is what it is.
 
welp.. after a year of sitting the msp started tonight. she struggles to idle on a cold startand makes some rattles, but she ran. im thinking there it has a vac leak somewhere but it could also be year old gas causing it to run poorly. im run her out, put some fresh gas in and tkae it out to burn it all back in. im sure there is sludge and garbage in her from sitting so long. she never got a lot of mechanical attention over the years so it might be advantageous to find a cheap beater parts car for another engine similar to the p5 im trying to sell. id almost keep that motor... and if i had $1000 to buy another parts car i prob would.. I guess by the end of this year ill be a damn vetran of the protege platform heh. i came here knowing nothing about cars and ive now done a handful of engine/turbo/transmission swaps, opened a transmission and rebuilt it, basically stripped and entire p5 down to a shell and rebuilt it. I dont think i have any fear left in me to do a full engine build now.
 
welp.. after a year of sitting the msp started tonight. she struggles to idle on a cold startand makes some rattles, but she ran. im thinking there it has a vac leak somewhere but it could also be year old gas causing it to run poorly. im run her out, put some fresh gas in and tkae it out to burn it all back in. im sure there is sludge and garbage in her from sitting so long. she never got a lot of mechanical attention over the years so it might be advantageous to find a cheap beater parts car for another engine similar to the p5 im trying to sell. id almost keep that motor... and if i had $1000 to buy another parts car i prob would.. I guess by the end of this year ill be a damn vetran of the protege platform heh. i came here knowing nothing about cars and ive now done a handful of engine/turbo/transmission swaps, opened a transmission and rebuilt it, basically stripped and entire p5 down to a shell and rebuilt it. I dont think i have any fear left in me to do a full engine build now.
It's in your blood now.

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kinda surprised the difference a 3" downpipe makes.. even mated to my catless stock exhaust it pulls real hard from 3-5 k. still runs out of breath up top as expected but just pulls harder. nice upgrade.

clutch feels bloody aweful.. not sure whats different unless one of the cylinders is on its way out. i had the stage 1 in the p5 and it felt pretty good. a little stiffer than stock but on the msp its REALLY stiff.. shifting up with power is tricky to do smoothly. car needs some love over the next few weeks but runs pretty well for having sat for a year.
 
I wonder what makes the clutches stiffer in the MP3 and MSP vs the normal protgs. I've owned them all lol. The ES had such a mushy clutch
 
kinda surprised the difference a 3" downpipe makes.. even mated to my catless stock exhaust it pulls real hard from 3-5 k. still runs out of breath up top as expected but just pulls harder. nice upgrade.

clutch feels bloody aweful.. not sure whats different unless one of the cylinders is on its way out. i had the stage 1 in the p5 and it felt pretty good. a little stiffer than stock but on the msp its REALLY stiff.. shifting up with power is tricky to do smoothly. car needs some love over the next few weeks but runs pretty well for having sat for a year.
People don't believe how awesome the downpipe is until they drive the car back to back. I feel like I'm patting myself on the back a little bit, but the manifold and downpipe combo REALLY make a profound difference. You'll pull all the way to red line if you swap out the rest of the exhaust. The muffler isn't too bad, but the midpipe sucks.

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my plan is to replace the pipe with 3" but ill leave the axleback portion 2.25 to not piss off neighbors. or get a 3" cutout in a midpipe.. the unichip should be able to control that but its just one more thing to fail. i like to KISS. unofortunately now it will hit fuel cut much more easily.
i think there must be something wrong with my master or slave though. it super stiff to the floor and i have the rod screwed all the way in. any more and it loses thread. still rubs a bit on upshifts.
 
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my plan is to replace the pipe with 3" but ill leave the axleback portion 2.25 to not piss off neighbors. or get a 3" cutout in a midpipe.. the unichip should be able to control that but its just one more thing to fail. i like to KISS. unofortunately now it will hit fuel cut much more easily.
i think there must be something wrong with my master or slave though. it super stiff to the floor and i have the rod screwed all the way in. any more and it loses thread. still rubs a bit on upshifts.
Is your clutch line flexing? It sounds like you have air in the clutch or the hose is flexing.

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i prob still need to do a final bleed on it. i just bled it enough to make it work but im not sure if i can get all the air out by myself. I have an ss clutch line and it is secured as its supposed to.
if their was air in it, id expect it to be flacid as **** though. just is just rock hard. and the same clutch wasnt in the p5.
 
i prob still need to do a final bleed on it. i just bled it enough to make it work but im not sure if i can get all the air out by myself. I have an ss clutch line and it is secured as its supposed to.
if their was air in it, id expect it to be flacid as **** though. just is just rock hard. and the same clutch wasnt in the p5.
I bought a self bleeder for cheep. Best investment ever. Cleaner and makes fluid flush easy.

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i wonder if i can make my rc shock air removal tool do the same job lol....its just a vacuum chamber with a hand pump ha. i just need someone to push the pedal down so i can crack the bleeder but the wife is afraid of stuff thinks the car will crash or somthing... also i have like no friends since having a child.
ill need to do the same to the brakes as they had sat for a year with no fluid. they work but kinda soft. the transmission doesnt sound nearly as bad as i remember it.. the dif makes a knocking know when unloaded and the gears sound like straight gears which is kinda cool.

ill need to solder up the connections i reverted from the ssafc. crimps are just far too ghetto. i havent even attached the ecu, the plate is just sitting there on the floor plugged in ha. today im gonna strip some doorpanels and stuff out of the p5 to make the msp a little bit nicer. decided instead of trying to get $4000 for the p5 ill just keep whatever parts i need to make the msp NOT look liek a peice of s*** and fix the trans. try to get $2500 out of it. ill need to paint my front splitter soon and start planning the projector retrofit for my p5 lights. the ddm bulbs just dont fit the housing retainer at all and i had to fiddle around with it to get it to stay in and not tilt itself up and blind peeps heh. but whateves, cant argue with $30 hid kit.

ill prob get d2s projectors. not really that much more money than the h1's.
with p5 lights ill be able to have bixenons for nighttime and the old high beam can be a halogen or led running light. or i could put th eprojector in the highbeam reflector, but im not sure it will fit in there.
 
I had planned to take th ep5 apart this weekend and fix the trans, but decided id rather just sell it for like $1500 and leave it alone.. the time investment to pull the trans out, open the trans, fix whats ****** and put it together is huge when i work full time an im not a mechanic with a lift ect.. id have to take it out fromt he bottom thist ime which i dont really want to do. but ive listed it at $1600 and see if i get bites. if not by next week, ill try to get the engine hoist on friday, pull that fker out and fix it, mark it up $1000...

I did steal some interior panels though. passenger rear door panel, driver door panel, glovebox, some handles and misc stuff are now in the msp and it is generally better. I have no head unity but im keeping my painted interior trims ect.. so the p5 kinda reverted to absolute stock with not so good interior stuffs.

sorted my hard clutch issue but running a s*** load of new fluid through the line til it ran clear. the old fluid was kinda brown.. so attached a tube to the bleeder and flushed it all out with new. clutch isnt perfect but a helluva lot better than it was. i suppose i should do this to the brakes too as the liter was only like $6.

my front splitter is silver and will need new paint. but wasnt all scratched this time from speedhumps, so will just need some white base and yellow. should be quick when i can afford the paint.

trying to get my hands on a passenger mirror, then ill prob dust both of them as they are a little different than the body color.
wheels not my first choice for yellow. def suit the p5 better but it is what it is for now.

i also took the insert out of the ssqv and now i think it is leaking.. ill have to plan to replace the bov shortly. i have never liked how the ssqv worked so i might try to get a greddy style with a 45 flanged intercooler pipe.
wouldnt mind doing a liquid intercooler in this car, but ive already clocked the turbo down, so the fmic routing is quite short. could be shorter still if i delete the smic and run the pipe straight up there. then i could have a proper CAI which would delete the slurping sound at moderate load. car has too much intake sound, need smore exhaust.

oh, and when i put the manifold back on on friday, i deleted the vtcs as well. which i think confirms my grip about the idle transisition. it wil stumble after a measurable amount of time at idle. p5 did it and the msp does now too.

she has exhaust leaks in 3 places..rattles everywhere, has NO swayars atm as no endlinks are installed.. struts are done.. trans has a broken dif, but still lsds apparently... needs love. but i love her, she will get it.

 
Question: will a manual transmission from a 2000 1.6 mate to an fs?
 
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