What have you done to your MSP today?

[Preferio]

Spent a little while at Pull-A-Part yesterday for a few things and an hour after I leave there the HVAC blower stops and it's due to the fan switch. Of course it was 29 this morning. The ground wire had too much resistance (imagine that) and melted the back of the switch. I took it out when I got to the shop and disassembled it, wire wheeled the contacts and reassembled the switch. It's working right now but 4th was too damaged to repair. I've got full operation otherwise. Picked up a license plate mount for 323 while I was there as well as a short antenna, dipstick and OEM lug nuts for myself. I'll be shipping that mount to him for his new P5. The MSP's donor block is in my basement. Now I've just got to put it on my stand and start disassembling it to get ready. I am going to flush the cooling system and replace the thermostat in the P5 either this evening or this coming weekend. Speaking of cooling systems, I need to drain the MSPs. Actually, that's just a first step for the primary goal of getting the engine out before it get's cold. I've found two BJ2's for <$500 both in need of engines and both automatic. I'd like to snag them, fix them and sell them, possibly keep one as a back-up. My girlfriend has told me that until my other cars are all running problem-free that I can't get another. We'll see.

 

[OThree.5]

heh... rear mount is easy.... with the intake off.. i cant ever recommend anyone try it without doing that first as its just such a dirty skunt to get the right extensions in there.. then im ultra paranoid of breaking an extension and impaling myself. just take the intake mani off, delete the VTCS and do the rear mount while your at it lol.

filled silicon definitely isnt the same as even a 70dm. you will still get wheel hop but not nearly as bad and the windshield wont become a ginormous speaker when your at a stop light. so i say good choice!

I failed twice without removing the intake. It took 30 minutes to get if off without the intake.. so I agree about removing it.

As far as the silicone, I really don't want super stiff motor mounts. I figured the silicone would be a good "middle ground" solution. Also, it was cost effective. I think I might do the passenger and front mounts with it as well.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I failed twice without removing the intake. It took 30 minutes to get if off without the intake.. so I agree about removing it.

As far as the silicone, I really don't want super stiff motor mounts. I figured the silicone would be a good "middle ground" solution. Also, it was cost effective. I think I might do the passenger and front mounts with it as well.

I really liked my car when I had all four motor mounts filled with polyurethane. I think it's a great middle ground.

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[OThree.5]

I'm sure I'll love it regardless considering this is what was in there



Here's a sneak peak at the intake. I'm addicted to getting this "right". If you look at where the VTCS actuator used to mount you'll see why this is taking me so long. I already have a handful of aluminum "gravel" from all the hunks I've cut off.

LAST WEEK




NOW

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I'm sure I'll love it regardless considering this is what was in there



Here's a sneak peak at the intake. I'm addicted to getting this "right". If you look at where the VTCS actuator used to mount you'll see why this is taking me so long. I already have a handful of aluminum "gravel" from all the hunks I've cut off.

LAST WEEK




NOW

That's hard core. I didn't do anything to the exterior of my mani. But I have two that I am going to port and polish in my spare time. I just need to find a place to get my aluminum grinding stones for my drimmle.

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[OThree.5]

I started with a dremel.. realized that's not quite enough. Ended up using a hacksaw and a file. A couple places I used quicksteel paste to fill/sand. Once you start its hard to stop.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Well the drimmel is what you need to port and polish.

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[hornsfan10609]

Anyone making a lot of power have any insight on clutches? I bought a stage 1 Spec (rated to 260tq) for 1574, thinking it would be a mild stock build and the clutch (being rated higher than stock) would hold up fine. Well I was wrong, the damn thing is getting so bad it slips under any more than part throttle in any gear. I need a good clutch for the built motor I am about to swap into 1345. Anyone have any experience with Southbend Clutches? It's between Exedy, Southbend or ACT, going to avoid Spec

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I built my motor with a spec stage 2 plus and haven't had any problems with it. I don't know about any of the other brands. But I imagine a higher rated exceede would be enough

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[Dpwhitehead1]

hey would anyone be interested in a MSP transmission with diff?

I'm buying a car and just kind GI'ing to see who'd be interested. Please PM me. should be picking it up this weekend.

 

[OThree.5]

Anyone making a lot of power have any insight on clutches? I bought a stage 1 Spec (rated to 260tq) for 1574, thinking it would be a mild stock build and the clutch (being rated higher than stock) would hold up fine. Well I was wrong, the damn thing is getting so bad it slips under any more than part throttle in any gear. I need a good clutch for the built motor I am about to swap into 1345. Anyone have any experience with Southbend Clutches? It's between Exedy, Southbend or ACT, going to avoid Spec

I worry that I am gonna get that Stage 1 Exedy in there and have it slip.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Stage 2+ vary streetable

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[hornsfan10609]

Exedy only makes an Stage 1 that they list as an OEM replacement, and a Stage 2 for the Protege. And it's only rated to 221tq at the wheels, I'm planning on making a LOT more than that. So I suppose South Bend Clutch is the way to go. ACT makes a clutch that will handle over 300tq but it's over $500, the South Bend is rated to 335tq for $375. I hope 335tq at the crank will be enough. Now I know for sure my stage 1 Spec was outmatched, it was rated at 260 at the crank, which is only ~200wtq and I know I was easily pushing that much.

Researching the clutch made me realize how few options we have for an upgraded clutch, and how much misinformation is out there regarding the clutch specs. I had to go to the manufacturers to get the right answers.

 

[OThree.5]

Exedy only makes an Stage 1 that they list as an OEM replacement, and a Stage 2 for the Protege. And it's only rated to 221tq at the wheels, I'm planning on making a LOT more than that. So I suppose South Bend Clutch is the way to go. ACT makes a clutch that will handle over 300tq but it's over $500, the South Bend is rated to 335tq for $375. I hope 335tq at the crank will be enough. Now I know for sure my stage 1 Spec was outmatched, it was rated at 260 at the crank, which is only ~200wtq and I know I was easily pushing that much.

Researching the clutch made me realize how few options we have for an upgraded clutch, and how much misinformation is out there regarding the clutch specs. I had to go to the manufacturers to get the right answers.

So whats the difference between these?

http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Mazda/Protege/Exedy/Clutch_Kit/2003/EXEKMZ08.html?source=gglpla ($100)

and this? Besides the price obviously..

http://thmotorsports.com/i-34417.aspx?utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=CSE&utm_content=34417NOFITMENT&utm_campaign=GoogleShoppingSeanNOFITMENT&gclid=Cj0KEQiApruyBRCFqoDu1pbk9rkBEiQAF8EFdQuR5iJk0WjunarGa0IcoArnEIpomd1CT9fbloQ8VJUaAqMd8P8HAQ ($300)

 

[OThree.5]

I just ordered this.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291400079213?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The double din JVC CD player in there now has gotta go. Now I'll be DVD'ing it up with a backup camera. I'm stoked.. Merry Christmas #1289. lol

 

[hornsfan10609]

Just like all other parts for the MSP, the information is almost always convoluted when it comes to specific Mazdaspeed parts. The first clutch you posted is the replacement for a regular pro. You need to look at the clutch's torque rating, I would at least get an Exedy Stage 1. Even if you don't plan to make a lot of power, a bolt-on MSP can easily make more than ~210tq+ at the wheels and the stage 1 clutches are only rated to around 200tq at the wheels max.


And I have found you should get a 3rd or even 4th opinion when looking up the torque rating. Seems like the same clutch has a different rating on each site.

 

[OThree.5]

Just like all other parts for the MSP, the information is almost always convoluted when it comes to specific Mazdaspeed parts. The first clutch you posted is the replacement for a regular pro. You need to look at the clutch's torque rating, I would at least get an Exedy Stage 1. Even if you don't plan to make a lot of power, a bolt-on MSP can easily make more than ~210tq+ at the wheels and the stage 1 clutches are only rated to around 200tq at the wheels max.


And I have found you should get a 3rd or even 4th opinion when looking up the torque rating. Seems like the same clutch has a different rating on each site.

I noticed the same thing as far as conflicting info, which is why I asked. I don't doubt you've done your homework. I have heard that the factory MSP clutch IS the Exedy Stage 1.. I have also heard that its not. So IDK anymore. I have the Stage 1.. not installed yet, but I am worried its not gonna be enough and I am gonna have to do the work twice. I'd rather sell the Stage 1 while its still BNIB if its not gonna be enough. but IDK what I'll end up doing now.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I noticed the same thing as far as conflicting info, which is why I asked. I don't doubt you've done your homework. I have heard that the factory MSP clutch IS the Exedy Stage 1.. I have also heard that its not. So IDK anymore. I have the Stage 1.. not installed yet, but I am worried its not gonna be enough and I am gonna have to do the work twice. I'd rather sell the Stage 1 while its still BNIB if its not gonna be enough. but IDK what I'll end up doing now.

Return it


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[Valk]

Nice thing about using a regular pro clutch though is getting a higher rated one for less money.. for the price of a msp stage 1 you can almost get a pro stage 2 plus. Doesn't hold as much as a msp stage 2 plus but meh.

I run an exedy stage one from regular pro but not really modified a lot aside from manifold and fmic. I liked the spec stage 2+ it replaced more.. that is what ill get when the msp built. Or stage 3.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I noticed the same thing as far as conflicting info, which is why I asked. I don't doubt you've done your homework. I have heard that the factory MSP clutch IS the Exedy Stage 1.. I have also heard that its not. So IDK anymore. I have the Stage 1.. not installed yet, but I am worried its not gonna be enough and I am gonna have to do the work twice. I'd rather sell the Stage 1 while its still BNIB if its not gonna be enough. but IDK what I'll end up doing now.

The stock MSP clutch is made by Exedy but it is not the same as the stage 1 clutch they sell, similar but not quite as much clamping force on the pressure plate. (1150lbs. vs. 1350lbs. or something like that). It's a 'heavier duty' clutch than the regular pro clutch (also made by exedy/daikin) but not enough for a modified car. I agree the Stage 1 is not going to be enough for you