What have you done to your MSP today?

Thats a possibility. Though ive been adjusting he rod a few times per year as the grab point keeps moving upward.
 
I've just been through the same thing with my clutch switch after a new flywheel and clutch... playing with my pedal so many times with a worn clutch then trying to get it back to factory spec height to trip the sensor in the right position. Haven't had another issue with having to mash the pedal through the floor and attempt cranking 15 times before actually cranking.
 
Ahhh. Fun times. The other day i was sitting at a light and wanted to inch forward a little. My clutch is unpredictable how aggressively it grabs now and i stalled. Took like 10 tries to get the cat started. Stuck at the light lol. Ill check availability of the switch when its all appart. Does it need calibration?
 
just figured out why my car was bucking in boost... To backlight the problem, three weeks ago I had a cylinder misfire... so I ended up switching the coilpacks to see if it would follow to another cylinder... but needless to say it didnt follow to another cylinder which would indicate a bad coil... so i looked into the gaps on the spark plugs, there were gapped for the normal protege .044 so I regapped them to .032 and vhoollllaaaa no more bucking under boost... I cant believe it was this easy to solve, i feel like an idiot for not trying this sooner....
 
just figured out why my car was bucking in boost... To backlight the problem, three weeks ago I had a cylinder misfire... so I ended up switching the coilpacks to see if it would follow to another cylinder... but needless to say it didnt follow to another cylinder which would indicate a bad coil... so i looked into the gaps on the spark plugs, there were gapped for the normal protege .044 so I regapped them to .032 and vhoollllaaaa no more bucking under boost... I cant believe it was this easy to solve, i feel like an idiot for not trying this sooner....

haha K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) i think weve all been down that road. its usually the smalled or dumbest things that give us the biggest headaches.
 
Loaded her up on a trailer and said good-bye...well Corey did most of the work. I am now MSP-less for good.
 
Over the weekend i replaced the valve cover gasket, installed a turbosmart internal wastegate, new vacuum lines, and fixed my broken knock sensor. Does anybody have a CAI, boost controller, turbo timer, and a boost gauge for sale?
 
sold my perrin fmic, and perrin fuel rail. get some money to pay off my gt2871 turbo. so many parts that still need to be installed. new wideband came in over the weekend as well.
 
Finally have my car back the shop that replaced 3rd gear had to pull it again to replace every single bearing to fix the loud rattle it had. Either way it runs great and I have it back in time for the cool weather.
I scored some super cool dealer literature for the MSP yesterday to add to my collection that I am so glad I acquired.

I need to install the shifter stabilizer bar bushings I got in the mail as well as an LED dome light I picked up and some nuts and washers to fix the hooks for the cargo net in the trunk.
 
Just so i understand correctly; i just need to punch out the shift fork pins snd not pull shiter shafts ect appart? Just slide the forks up with both shafts? What about getting bunged up on the dif?
Also, is a factory lsd with 131km worh welding? While im in there might as well ask.
 
Just so i understand correctly; i just need to punch out the shift fork pins snd not pull shiter shafts ect appart? Just slide the forks up with both shafts? What about getting bunged up on the dif?
Also, is a factory lsd with 131km worh welding? While im in there might as well ask.

as long as there are no hairline cracks everywhere or evidence of major damage to the diff. yes it would still be worth welding.
 
Should be taking off the Tokicos and putting the AWRs back on soon. Thinking about selling the Tokicos with the springs since they only have like 5k on them, if that. Then she'll be just a weekend car for sure.
 
Bleh.
that was a pointless trip to the trans shop kinda.. mechanic took it for a road test and confirmed the noises i explained but wants to put it on a hoist and simulate it running to have a better listen...of course for all of this, thinking back to when i changed out the clutch.. i don't think i changed that flywheel pilot bearing... maybe that blew up.. but wouldn't there still be a bearing in the crank to capture the input shaft?
he's talking about possibly missing teeth and it costing around $500-$600 just to open it and put it back together.. plus whatever it costs to put it on the hoist and road test it again. not including parts..
wonder if i should just stick to my gut, skip all this and take it apart myself this week. he didn't seem all that enthusiastic about getting the trans out of the car, and im not that interested in paying him to do that heh..
maybe im auto stupid, but if i give you a piece of the car and ask you to take it apart, wouldn't the ****** s*** be pretty apparent?

missing teeth seems silly to me. if that was the case, it wouldnt go into whatever gear or id it did, it would probably grind all the remaining teeth off, or get jammed up by the piece that broke off... maybe im missing somthing?
 
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