What have you done to your MSP today?

I asked the question a few weeks ago if moving the air intake tempt sensor around would do anything but no definite answer. So I played around with locations of my intake air tempt sensor(since I went fmic and no longer running stock air box) I also watched intake tempts to see if any location was better than the other, it actually showed lower tempts in a few different locations that had better air flow. May leave it there and see if there are any adverse effects of doing so
 
Valk said:
Bleh.
that was a pointless trip to the trans shop kinda.. mechanic took it for a road test and confirmed the noises i explained but wants to put it on a hoist and simulate it running to have a better listen...of course for all of this, thinking back to when i changed out the clutch.. i don't think i changed that flywheel pilot bearing... maybe that blew up.. but wouldn't there still be a bearing in the crank to capture the input shaft?
he's talking about possibly missing teeth and it costing around $500-$600 just to open it and put it back together.. plus whatever it costs to put it on the hoist and road test it again. not including parts..
wonder if i should just stick to my gut, skip all this and take it apart myself this week. he didn't seem all that enthusiastic about getting the trans out of the car, and im not that interested in paying him to do that heh..
maybe im auto stupid, but if i give you a piece of the car and ask you to take it apart, wouldn't the ****** s*** be pretty apparent?

missing teeth seems silly to me. if that was the case, it wouldnt go into whatever gear or id it did, it would probably grind all the remaining teeth off, or get jammed up by the piece that broke off... maybe im missing somthing?
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Your trans guy sounds a little dopey to me. There is absolutely no issue with bringing a trans shop the already-removed trans. If they have an issue with it, find a new shop. IMHO, you should find another shop just to get another opinion on it.

I'm with you on the broken gear, but I've never taken a transmission apart either.
 
Jaleik said:
To be fair I the car was down most of the year so yeah.. didn't feel like washing it.
Click to expand...

In your face! Yeah, mine too. But for obvious "Preferio" reasons. On another note, when I spun a bearing #4 rod was damaged. Called K1 and they'll be sending me another for $115.
 
My phone (camera) battery died about 3 minutes before the bearing spun. I wish it would have been on to A) see me all over that bikes ass in the twisties and B) to hear the line of expletives I was yelling. I hate sharp left turns. ******* oil starvation!
 
Valk said:
Bleh.
that was a pointless trip to the trans shop kinda.. mechanic took it for a road test and confirmed the noises i explained but wants to put it on a hoist and simulate it running to have a better listen...of course for all of this, thinking back to when i changed out the clutch.. i don't think i changed that flywheel pilot bearing... maybe that blew up.. but wouldn't there still be a bearing in the crank to capture the input shaft?
he's talking about possibly missing teeth and it costing around $500-$600 just to open it and put it back together.. plus whatever it costs to put it on the hoist and road test it again. not including parts..
wonder if i should just stick to my gut, skip all this and take it apart myself this week. he didn't seem all that enthusiastic about getting the trans out of the car, and im not that interested in paying him to do that heh..
maybe im auto stupid, but if i give you a piece of the car and ask you to take it apart, wouldn't the ****** s*** be pretty apparent?

missing teeth seems silly to me. if that was the case, it wouldnt go into whatever gear or id it did, it would probably grind all the remaining teeth off, or get jammed up by the piece that broke off... maybe im missing somthing?
Click to expand...
Which gear is he saying is missing teeth? If the teeth were missing the car would not go into gear or would not move in gear. Damaged teeth cause a very distinct groaning sound much different than a bearing.
 
It makes a groan downshifting gears or in reverse sometimes.

All the gears engage and run smooth. Ive had to rev match to stop it groaning from 3rd to 2nd. Ill just have to open it up. If something is broke should be pretty obvious. Maybe ill take a vid on the way home today.

He wasnt able to tell me much. Basically he wanted the car on a hoist to have a listen with his coleages and do more road tests.
Though unload trans probably doesnt make the same sort of sounds.
 
I used to put cars on the lift all the time to diagnose noises, I see where he is coming from. It sounds like a synchronizer issue to me.
 
for whatever reason, its easier to hear the clicking of the trans on the iphone than on the pc lol.. but here is a short drive from work that maybe illustrates what im hearing.. pedel sucks, dash sucks, struts ect suck and solid motor mounts such.. but otherwise not too bad lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7M-mW2YohQ
 
That sounds like the clutch pedal is squeaking, when my pedal made noise it was the throwout bearing inside the trans but I have seen the pedal assembly under the dash squeak as well. I can barely hear the clicking, is it all the time or only on decel? It sounds like a bearing inside the trans
 
I'd say you're due for a new clutch for sure if it's that bad just downshifting unless your pedal was adjusted severely and its grabbing way too low to allow the springs in the pressure plate to compress enough to hold. The tapping sounded like it's at constant tap and while the car is sitting at idle too? Maybe the throwout bearing if its at idle which should be replaced anyway along with the pilot bearing when doing a new clutch.
 
The ticking is anytime the gearset is moving. At a stop can kind of hear it with the clutch engaged. Pressing the clutch in silences it. It was much worse last week.
Atm its most noticable at decel and doesnt really get louder with speed but higher frequency o indicate rotating stuffs.

Ps the pedal has always squeeked as long as ive had the car. The rod is as far in as it goes without coming off its thread. Thus the new clutch this weekend.
 
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When you get the tranny off... if its not obviously the throwout or pilot bearing or both you can use a screw driver to manually shift through each gear center being N turning left and right and moving the gear selector out for 1-3-5 in for 2-4-R and turn the shafts to listen for something internally damaged before attempting to open it up. My pedal has always been a squeeker too.... louder since the Comp Stage 5 clutch.
 
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How good is our factory muffler? I've been searching and reading on different muffler/ exhaust setups but yet to find a decent answer (I wanna change mine out soon). I've heard people doing just the mid pipe(sls midpipe) with slightly better results or even doing the larger 80mm corksport system to the quieter mazdaspeed muffler. I'm not fully sold on the corksport unit as I could prolly build/get one done at a muffler shop for cheaper. Anyone have any feedback on a good setup? I'm only running fmic/intake at the moment.
 
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It's not a choke point like the rest of the factory exhaust set up. Sure your best option is to decide on a muffler of your choice and have an exhaust shop fab up the rest of the piping for you.
 
Waiting on my K1 rod to get here. Then reassemble the engine. Also, looking for a decent OEM turbo. Mine has 182k on the clock and the shaft play is more than I'm comfortable with running 15psi. Not in the mood to start looking for, or installing and modifying, a 28. If you know of one, let me know.
 
Changed back to the AWR coilovers and lowered her down a little bit since I don't have to worry about fitting the slicks on her until next year. Now I just need to post the Tokicos up for sale. Sucks that I only put like 5k on them before she became a full blown autoX car and the other MSP already has a nice setup. Hopefully doing some more vinyl wrap tomorrow and Sunday will be a work on the other MSP day.
 
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