What have you done to your MSP today?

[Laser Blue]

I do not wish to relocate the MAF, simply because I don't want to hack up the pipes. I have to weld an opening to the CAI??? ****.

Thats the easiest way, is to weld a 1" fitting on the CAI and run a 1" (25mm)silicone hose from the BOV to the CAI. I put the 1" fitting on my SRI to run my Boost Sciences RDV. It cost $30 parts and labor. You can see it in this pic...

 

[Ricktalife]

Thats the easiest way, is to weld a 1" fitting on the CAI and run a 1" (25mm)silicone hose from the BOV to the CAI. I put the 1" fitting on my SRI to run my Boost Sciences RDV. It cost $30 parts and labor. You can see it in this pic...

You have a PM. Coming...

 

[323]

haven't done it yet, thinking about doing it over the summer. i want new wheels

do you guys think 17x7.5 +45 offset on 215/45/17 (reusing my tires) would rub without rolling fenders? i am lowered on h&r springs and mp3 struts. no rake here

 

[Wagonbacker9]

should be fine. I barely rubbed on 40 offset

 

[Laser Blue]

should be fine. I barely rubbed on 40 offset

It seems like a 7" rim with a 40 offset would be nearly identical to a 7.5" rim with a 45 offset...

 

[Wagonbacker9]

It seems like a 7" rim with a 40 offset would be nearly identical to a 7.5" rim with a 45 offset...

a .25" change in the inside (part mating with the wheel) doesn't equate to a 5mm offset change. the tire's general shape is still the same and that .25" over nearly 100mm of sidewall height is almost NOTHING untill you're talking about SERIOUSLY compressing the suspension (or are slammed on coils)

 

[Laser Blue]

a .25" change in the inside (part mating with the wheel) doesn't equate to a 5mm offset change. the tire's general shape is still the same and that .25" over nearly 100mm of sidewall height is almost NOTHING untill you're talking about SERIOUSLY compressing the suspension (or are slammed on coils)

Good point... When you're right, you're right.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

hey, when it happens, it happens! LOL

 

[323]

i went on an offset calculator and it came out like this:

http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

Current Wheel Width: 7 inches
Current Wheel Offset: 55 mm

New Wheel Width: 7.5 inches
New Weel Offset: 45 mm

The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 4mm MORE
The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 16mm

 

[Wagonbacker9]

depends where they're measuring though. the same size tire is only moving out 1cm at the tread. like I said its at the contact between the wheel and tire that its moving out 16mm. Either way its still 4mm of clearance over my 17x7 40 offset at the wheel, and that only barely rubbed, so 4mm should do the trick.

 

[theEZV]

so apperently my dad took the msp out for a spin last night. (the car's been driven only a couple of times in the last 2 months). he said it was extremely noisy and everything was rattling. sounds about right lol.

a lot of the rattling is coming from the rear, im guessing its the sub, maybe its blown? what's the best way to tell if the sub is gone?

 

[o0n8]

in my experience it just sounds like ruffled air and bass mixed together

 

[Wagonbacker9]

if the sub buzzes instead of making bass, its blown. also if its OEM could be the amp.

 

[FlyinHawaiian]

so apperently my dad took the msp out for a spin last night. (the car's been driven only a couple of times in the last 2 months). he said it was extremely noisy and everything was rattling. sounds about right lol.

a lot of the rattling is coming from the rear, im guessing its the sub, maybe its blown? what's the best way to tell if the sub is gone?

Listen to it... If a speaker is blown it'll buzz rather than rattle. Remember its a cone, probably made of paper, so if the integrity of it is compromised, then it'll buzz as the air passes over the rip. I doubt its the Sub though, its REALLY tough to blow one of those...

 

[Wagonbacker9]

the OEM kenwood sub cone is plastic. if anything the voice coil or the surround let go. but it doesn't matter, if any of the 3 go it will sound like ass.

 

[Ricktalife]

So in order to install my FMIC, I will need to remove the SMIC to make room for the hot pipe. I found a bracket kit on SU that will support the radiator in place of the SMIC. Only problem is they are charging $60 for the top and bottom brackets. Is it just me or does that price sound a little high? I'm sure I could have some made but since this is my daily it would be a lot better if I could just have everything set when it's time for the install. Anybody have a FMIC that had the same issue?

 

[323]

i just left the smic in there lol

 

[Ricktalife]

i just left the smic in there lol

Well I was told the hot pipe runs through there so I can't.

 

[FlyinHawaiian]

All I'm gonna say is CF is a b**** to work with...

 

[theEZV]

Well I was told the hot pipe runs through there so I can't.

is it the high boost kit? or custom?