What have you done to your MSP today?

LOL :p I had always planned to....just got the greddy to get me by for a while.

I need to figure out if I should add or take out a washer. I get a little whistle on decel so I think taking out a washer would be best that way it will open a little more on decel and not whistle.

How many washers are you other TurboXS guys running?

You're not pushing enough boost to require any washers broski.

Pulled out all the washers, no more whistle but the BOV does stay open at idle...but closes as soon as any throttle is applied. I dont think theres an issue with this.
 
oh ok, for some reason I didnt think it was supposed to stay open at idle...dont know where i got that since theres no ill effect from it doing that.
 
no issue, that's how it's supposes to operate

if your not running a relocated MAF then that is a HUGE issue because your suckign in unmetered air and will cause the car to run like ass if it runs at all. Not to mention what sort of long term issues you could have because of it.
 
I think he said that under the assumption that you are running relocated and VTA, which I am and I believe he knows that :)
if your not running a relocated MAF then that is a HUGE issue because your suckign in unmetered air and will cause the car to run like ass if it runs at all. Not to mention what sort of long term issues you could have because of it.
 
My car kinda whistles now with the BOV, at least turkeys don't turkey call back at me anymore when I drive by.
 
the AC fan won't kick on if you have no freon. I can attest to that much.

Didn't know that about the fan and if you have low freeon the low presure sensor wont allow it to engage the clutch on the compressor... well it really depends on how low it is to be honest.

I'm not sure if the MSP has this but I know my truck does. If the high presure switch is shot it might allow the AC to still work but the presure release valve will vent out some freenon to try and keep the presure down.

Also another thing to look for is make sure that one little wire it attached to the compressor on that pin on it. If thats not on it your AC wont blow cold air either. I think its some sort of ground but not sure.


hmm, good info, I did not know that about it, and that makes perfect sense and I don't know why I didn't think about this before but the car had been sitting for about 2 years before my brother got it, and then the engine was replaced with my old msp engine (the one we got the car with had a bunch of holes in it haha) but I am almost positive that the guys that did it, did not charge the freeon, so really it is completely empty most likely since they would have disconnected the lines at some point...

so that leaves me with the question if anyone know if autozone can test the levels for free just so I can make 100% sure that is it, and then get a new charge.. and maybe for some strange reason the low levels are making the a/c fan kick on instead of the rad. coolant fan (and maybe the coolant fan is just dead) but either way I will replace that fan and get a charge on the freeon and see what that fixes..

thanks again for the info, it will be nice to get this crap done
 
I just re-filled my AC system, it wasn't very low but I was trying to figure out why it wasn't working well after the FMIC install. You can buy cans of freon from the parts stores and they have a gauge on them, just remove the cap for the low pressure side, turn on the car and run the AC full blast and it will fill the system until it's full.
 
My AC is working fantastically with the stock fans lol Blows ice cold in the middle of the hot day at idle.
 
Mine blows cold when it's moving, extremely cold while cruising down the highway. But when sitting still the single 10" fan doesn't cut it. I can't decide if I should change out the 10" for a 12" that flows almost double the CFM and just run one fan or if I should redo my hot pipe and fit another fan for the AC. Summer is almost over so I don't really have to mess with it until next spring.
 
1 10", it covers about as much surface area on the radiator as the stock fan did, if not more. No problems running warm or anything whatsoever in 110 degree heat.
 
you should have at least 2 fans on that thing...

I'd go with 2 12" fans or do the pipe routing that allows for stockers.
 
I should get a full size aluminum radiator with 1 12" fans but until I have any problems i'm not going to worry. It's not hurting anything having one fan on there.
 
I'm noticing more and more cars with the door trim colormatched. Do people just pull off the vinyl and it's painted underneath or do you have to paint them? I'm interested in removing the black vinyl because I really like the way it looks colormatched.
 
I should get a full size aluminum radiator with 1 12" fans but until I have any problems i'm not going to worry. It's not hurting anything having one fan on there.

if your not running an ac on your car 1 12" fan will be fine.. but if you are running ac you will want 2 fans otherwise your ac and coolant won't be running efficiently.. ac won't blow cold like it should and your car will run hotter then norm..
 
yea I really 2nd the 2 fans thing, since you actually use your A/C you really should have 2 fans, if you really want, and you don't plan on getting a full sized radiator (the Mishomoto is what I just got and it was a lot cheaper than I was expecting) you should just get 1 extra 12" fan, and have the 10" fan on the A/C side and the 12" fan on the rad. coolant side, and if you fit them correctly, you should be able to fit them both on the stock radiator without anything really hanging off the sides.. but the car just runs better over all with the correct number of fans on there, I wired mine so they both come on now when the temp. sensor is triggered and it's great, it's gotta be better for the oil and engine over all...

but anyways, right now I am going to have to switch all my doors out with the ones from my old msp (really happy I had a spicy msp before this one) because my old one didn't have tint on them, and I need to either get proof that the tint is removed or that I can get the stickers from the DMV, which I would need a doc. note saying I needed it, and it costs money to get the stickers.. so I just decided to change the doors, take a dated picture, and go over the police station and get someone to sign saying that the tint is removed.. they just better not bust my balls about the tint on the rear window which I am pretty sure can be any level of tint.. and just change them out once I have the court date on friday... hope all goes well.. should have just paid the damn ticket, but whatever
 
I'm noticing more and more cars with the door trim colormatched. Do people just pull off the vinyl and it's painted underneath or do you have to paint them? I'm interested in removing the black vinyl because I really like the way it looks colormatched.

oh and to answer your question, I was thinking about this before, but since my tint matches the trim I decided not to screw with it, but I might change it just for kicks, because I like the way it looks, as long as it doesn't take away from the shape (like the trim doesn't fill anything, if it's just the way it is, with the thin black trim around it), but let me know how it goes if you do it, I probably would have to see one in person before deciding whether or not to do it
 
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