What have you done to your Miata today?
- Thread starter Antoine
- Start date
nah, no smell of oil from the front, i only smell it burning out the back
And no puddles under the car either
And yeah, i've got 10w40 in instead of the 10w30 i've been using (in addition to a new bottle of lucas oil stabalizer i havn't used before)
and it may just be me being dumb and not fully filling with oil? I guess i'll find out in a day or two if it starts to tick again
And no puddles under the car either
And yeah, i've got 10w40 in instead of the 10w30 i've been using (in addition to a new bottle of lucas oil stabalizer i havn't used before)
and it may just be me being dumb and not fully filling with oil? I guess i'll find out in a day or two if it starts to tick again
A heavier weight shouldn't help HLA tick. The issue is that the hole used to pressurize the HLA is too small, so a heavier oil won't flow into the HLA as easily. A lighter weight oil and/or an oil detergent would help. I've had luck with seafoam, other people like the ATF flush, or even a 'rise' with a lighter oil will get the job done some times. A heavier oil won't really help because it requires extra pressure to get into the HLA ports, which is the issue in the first place.
I recently took everything apart to clean the HLAs individually, which wasn't too big of a deal, just needed to be a little careful with the cams. That's the ultimate fix!
I recently took everything apart to clean the HLAs individually, which wasn't too big of a deal, just needed to be a little careful with the cams. That's the ultimate fix!
Let's see, in the last week I:
-Pulled the stock proportioning valve and installed a gutted stocker. Will it work? Should be an interesting test at the next event.
-Bled the brakes. Man do you go through a lot of fluid when you introduce air as far back as the prop valve.
-Swapped the brass fitting for a nylon fitting for the IAT sensor to help prevent it heat-soaking.
-Re-installed the intake.
-Pulled the dash bar to swap in one that's been slightly modified. Welded in support for the gauge cluster, so I don't have to have it all ghetto rigged with zip ties on the steering column.
-Pulled the trunk to gut it.
My HLAs (and a solid number of SM guys I know) beg to differ. The theory is that it keeps the HLAs filled more effectively... if that's the case or not, I dunno, but it works.
-Pulled the stock proportioning valve and installed a gutted stocker. Will it work? Should be an interesting test at the next event.
-Bled the brakes. Man do you go through a lot of fluid when you introduce air as far back as the prop valve.
-Swapped the brass fitting for a nylon fitting for the IAT sensor to help prevent it heat-soaking.
-Re-installed the intake.
-Pulled the dash bar to swap in one that's been slightly modified. Welded in support for the gauge cluster, so I don't have to have it all ghetto rigged with zip ties on the steering column.
-Pulled the trunk to gut it.
My HLAs (and a solid number of SM guys I know) beg to differ. The theory is that it keeps the HLAs filled more effectively... if that's the case or not, I dunno, but it works.
Well, I can't argue with results.
I hadn't heard of the "keep the HLA filled" theory, just the "oil port is clogged" theory. Heavy weight would be good for the former, as you say, and lighter weight would be good for the latter.
Ok ok, that actually makes a semi-decent case for a Camry, if such a thing actually could exist 
Pics or b&!
Pics or b&!
Ok ok, that actually makes a semi-decent case for a Camry, if such a thing actually could exist
Pics or b&!
in reading over the window sticker they even add a "sport tuned steering" didnt know they had that. Just need to ditch the other miata in the driveway and the de-mazdification will be complete.
Pics will be up in that thread in a minute
Tried to wire up the wideband to the ECU over the weekend with failure
The ecu terminals don't match those in the installation PDF from flyin miata
Also, no leaking oil anywhere, just the residual oil from the oil change dripped off, no new puddles, so i guess i just didn't fully fill it after the change.
Also with the amp disconnected, the battery seems to be ok
The ecu terminals don't match those in the installation PDF from flyin miata
Also, no leaking oil anywhere, just the residual oil from the oil change dripped off, no new puddles, so i guess i just didn't fully fill it after the change.
Also with the amp disconnected, the battery seems to be ok
Then definitely do at least a compression test, preferably a leak-down test. The leak down will tell you *where* the leak is instead of simply "there is a leak" which is what a compression test will do.
hrrmmm.....
Found this while looking for terminal info. . .
This might have been done to mine since i only have 2 connectors going into the ECU rather than 3 (converting the 96-97 ecu harness to a 95 wiring harness)
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/ecu/OBD2_rewire.pdf
Found this while looking for terminal info. . .
This might have been done to mine since i only have 2 connectors going into the ECU rather than 3 (converting the 96-97 ecu harness to a 95 wiring harness)
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/ecu/OBD2_rewire.pdf
princess peach
Member
- :
- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
so far I'm getting really good mileage (finally), we'll see how much I can get. I'm loving mine, wanna keep adding stuff 
hopefully I can get my beater going soon so I don't put so many miles on the MSM, already put 10k miles since I bought it...
hopefully I can get my beater going soon so I don't put so many miles on the MSM, already put 10k miles since I bought it...
so far I'm getting really good mileage (finally), we'll see how much I can get. I'm loving mine, wanna keep adding stuff
hopefully I can get my beater going soon so I don't put so many miles on the MSM, already put 10k miles since I bought it...
That's not too bad. I put about 22k on mine in 7 months after I first got it...
I got https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) to check engine health during the engine swap I just completed. Works pretty well, not that there is anything too difficult about it. Frankly it's easier to do than a compression test. Just be sure to hold the crank bolt with a breaker bar, not a ratchet.
Yep, that'll work.
Also, to save a bit of $$, this will work too:
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=leakdown
Probably not as accurate, but the actual numbers aren't as big of a deal as the delta between them. The precision should be plenty adequate.
Also, to save a bit of $$, this will work too:
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=leakdown
Probably not as accurate, but the actual numbers aren't as big of a deal as the delta between them. The precision should be plenty adequate.
