One thing I've considered doing is something that I learned from my days learning Mopar when I was a wee lad. One thing that some of the drag cars used to do was to add a piece of angle iron from the front of the block to the passenger side "frame rail" to eliminate engine torqueing. The mounts were only so good back then.
I bought a set of the MS competition mounts from IL Motorsports via RSpeed. They are 30% stiffer than stock IIRC, cheaper than anywhere else and won't shake your teeth out. I would recommend also upgrading the diff mounts since the whole shebang is tied together with the PPF. Of course those are a royal PITA to install, unless you use my little tricks.
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little tricks?
Rspeed has em for $80 for the set
oh, and question for you guys.
What would cause the car to have a rough start? It doesn't happen every time, but has happened 2 times in the last 2 days.
I turn the key and it just kinda chugs but never turns over. I'll hold 5 seconds or so then let go
turn again and after a few seconds it slowly chugs to life.
It's got the Link ECU i don't know if it's tune related? I still need to replace the plugs and wires, but i don't know if that would have an effect
Rspeed has em for $80 for the set
oh, and question for you guys.
What would cause the car to have a rough start? It doesn't happen every time, but has happened 2 times in the last 2 days.
I turn the key and it just kinda chugs but never turns over. I'll hold 5 seconds or so then let go
turn again and after a few seconds it slowly chugs to life.
It's got the Link ECU i don't know if it's tune related? I still need to replace the plugs and wires, but i don't know if that would have an effect
Ah yes, little tricks. I was actually going to do a writeup but didn't quite get to it last time home (lots of family stuff going on). I can't really do anything while I'm out here since I don't have access to the tools I used to take pictures of, but it seriously took me five minutes to remove the old ones whole once I had things set, and slightly longer to put the new ones in.
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Joined the Club
Nice! The titanium grey is a great color IMHO.
Try cycling the fuel pump 2 or 3 times before actually starting it. I have to do that on mine, as well as open the throttle a little bit. Mine is hardware related. It's a known issue with the older versions of the hydra to have difficulties starting when cold.
Will do. Mine is not cold start related though. it happens after it's been sitting an hour or 2 and i hop back in to go
But i will try the fuel pump cycle.
and your hydra is better setup than the old Link system they don't sell anymore. And thanks again!
and I only like the tupperware on black NB's
That setup isperfect
Mighta just found my rollbar from a fab company in Tampa
$345 for the first 5 bars built, then retails $415
Option 2 is the Blue Star Fab bar and they want $375 for a double diag harddog hardcore style'd bar
*EDIT* might be leaning more towards option 2. I forgot that for that price that is also installed
$345 for the first 5 bars built, then retails $415
Option 2 is the Blue Star Fab bar and they want $375 for a double diag harddog hardcore style'd bar
*EDIT* might be leaning more towards option 2. I forgot that for that price that is also installed
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Alright, took a little vid of the sound (knocking?)
It only happens (at least what i can hear) under minimal throttle or JUST on the gas
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y13...t=7396d54f.mp4
It only happens (at least what i can hear) under minimal throttle or JUST on the gas
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y13...t=7396d54f.mp4
Laser03pro
Member
- :
- 1995 Miata
Does that speed it up also?
