Finally got the tow-rig home. 2012 Armada 4wd
https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net...264334_935539005614_6608657569783491850_n.jpg
She's a big ol' girl
Nice!
Looks pretty good, especially for cast aluminum.
What have you done to your Miata today?
- Thread starter Antoine
- Start date
Nice!
Looks pretty good, especially for cast aluminum.
Finally got the tow-rig home. 2012 Armada 4wd
She's a big ol' girl
Very nice!
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
Nice Andrew !!
Nice Maff, now don't turn into one of those "I'm driving a big truck so get out of my way" folks!
The change in sway bar sizes is a success. The car feels more supple over the road surface, and while I haven't had a chance to really push things, it does feel better in the corners as well.
I finally ran a dedicated ground wire from the intake manifold ground point for the AFR and boost gauges. I didn't notice any change in the readings on the AFR but that's not saying it isn't an improvement. Looks like rain here shortly so I'll wait until tomorrow to take her out and do some tuning. I also regapped the plugs to 0.035, and relieved the base of the COPS where they were hitting on the valve cover. I did not see this before and were it not for buying another set which had this done, I would not have known of it (it was not mentioned in the instructions from TSE). If you don't do this then you will end up with some indents on either side of the plug valley on your valve cover.
The change in sway bar sizes is a success. The car feels more supple over the road surface, and while I haven't had a chance to really push things, it does feel better in the corners as well.
I finally ran a dedicated ground wire from the intake manifold ground point for the AFR and boost gauges. I didn't notice any change in the readings on the AFR but that's not saying it isn't an improvement. Looks like rain here shortly so I'll wait until tomorrow to take her out and do some tuning. I also regapped the plugs to 0.035, and relieved the base of the COPS where they were hitting on the valve cover. I did not see this before and were it not for buying another set which had this done, I would not have known of it (it was not mentioned in the instructions from TSE). If you don't do this then you will end up with some indents on either side of the plug valley on your valve cover.
The hardlines, or the lines from the hardlines to the tank and fuel rail? I replaced mine with stockers, IIRC. Alternately:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gtr-65128/overview/
Got the thermo housing modification done, just have to wait for the JB Weld to set up so I can install it tomorrow:
I drilled the hole to about 0.03 mm smaller than the pipe so it's a press-fit. A little JB Weld before I inserted the pipe should help keep it in one piece with no leakage. Should...
I drilled the hole to about 0.03 mm smaller than the pipe so it's a press-fit. A little JB Weld before I inserted the pipe should help keep it in one piece with no leakage. Should...
Got the thermo housings swapped out this morning. Test drive shows no leaks, but I will have to source a new hose for the water pump bleed as the stocker is running too close to the PS belt. No pictures as my laptop died and just typing this from my wife's Apple whatever is a PITA.
Got my tech form filled out for Monday's track day at Mid-Ohio. Gonna be fun...
Got my tech form filled out for Monday's track day at Mid-Ohio. Gonna be fun...
Lots of work over the weekend. The new/used replacement engine was in decent shape, but not good enough to just drop in, unfortunately. Initial leakdown numbers, and leakage location, were:
1-13% blow by
2-7% exhaust valve
3-20% exhaust valve
4-12% blow by
After a bit of massaging (nominally letting stuff soak in seafoam overnight) I got:
1-5% blow by
2-8% exhaust valve
3-25% exhaust valve
4-3% blow by
Other clues:
-Oil in plug wells (valve cover gasket clearly never replaced) i.e. ignition severely compromised
-Spark plugs caked black in carbon
-Tons of carbon build-up in exhaust ports
Conclusion: car was running like s***, lots of carbon deposits caked onto everything. Adding seafoam probably freed up the rings a bit, and partly (but not entirely) cleaned off the exhaust valves and seats, causing extra leakage.
Action: disassemble engine head. Clean head, lap valves, reassemble.
Engine on engine stand. The chain fall is making life really not suck right now. With it I can do everything by myself.
Miata drivetrains have exploded across my garage. It's a disaster.
Three blocks, two heads, dressing for two engines, an extra front and rear subframe (I'm welding up a rear subframe for a guy's V8 conversion), and lots of other crap.
Taking the head apart I found several jammed/clogged HLAs. I'll take them apart and clean them.
Everything apart and soaking in ATF to clean off the immense amount of carbon buildup (way worse than the engine that came out). Learned how to use a valve spring compressor, made pretty quick work of it all things said and done.
The bottom end looks good. No scoring, decent hatching, smooth movements with no detectable slop. I poured oil on top of each cylinder to prevent rust and to give the rings even more opportunity to free up.
Hopefully tonight I'll be able to clean out the ports and valves and maybe be able to lap the valves. Any tips or advice on lapping?
I ordered new valve guide seals (because why not?) so reassembly will be a little delayed. I could reassemble the block and transmission (when the parts for that arrives) and drop that into the car if I'm still waiting on the head, but I'd rather do it all at once if possible.
1-13% blow by
2-7% exhaust valve
3-20% exhaust valve
4-12% blow by
After a bit of massaging (nominally letting stuff soak in seafoam overnight) I got:
1-5% blow by
2-8% exhaust valve
3-25% exhaust valve
4-3% blow by
Other clues:
-Oil in plug wells (valve cover gasket clearly never replaced) i.e. ignition severely compromised
-Spark plugs caked black in carbon
-Tons of carbon build-up in exhaust ports
Conclusion: car was running like s***, lots of carbon deposits caked onto everything. Adding seafoam probably freed up the rings a bit, and partly (but not entirely) cleaned off the exhaust valves and seats, causing extra leakage.
Action: disassemble engine head. Clean head, lap valves, reassemble.
Engine on engine stand. The chain fall is making life really not suck right now. With it I can do everything by myself.
Miata drivetrains have exploded across my garage. It's a disaster.
Three blocks, two heads, dressing for two engines, an extra front and rear subframe (I'm welding up a rear subframe for a guy's V8 conversion), and lots of other crap.
Taking the head apart I found several jammed/clogged HLAs. I'll take them apart and clean them.
Everything apart and soaking in ATF to clean off the immense amount of carbon buildup (way worse than the engine that came out). Learned how to use a valve spring compressor, made pretty quick work of it all things said and done.
The bottom end looks good. No scoring, decent hatching, smooth movements with no detectable slop. I poured oil on top of each cylinder to prevent rust and to give the rings even more opportunity to free up.
Hopefully tonight I'll be able to clean out the ports and valves and maybe be able to lap the valves. Any tips or advice on lapping?
I ordered new valve guide seals (because why not?) so reassembly will be a little delayed. I could reassemble the block and transmission (when the parts for that arrives) and drop that into the car if I'm still waiting on the head, but I'd rather do it all at once if possible.
princess peach
Member
- :
- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
I put mine on a wall @ Mid Ohio, not pretty. Trying to decide what to do with her.
heath11907
Member
- :
- Mazda MX5
Wash and wax. Time for Friday night cruise night shows
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
nice!! job yet?
Nope. But Mary is working!
So those troublesome lower rear control arm bolts are out! I didn't even have to break out the acetone/ATF combo. I just laid underneath the car and heated the entire exposed section, hit it with an impact and it came right out. I did the same thing for the side that I hadn't done anything to, and had it out in 2 minutes.
Like an idiot, I was heating the wrong thing the entire time!
Anywho, got all the control arm bushings replaced now, just need to tighten everything back up and double check everything. New brake pads and rotors are getting ordered today.
Like an idiot, I was heating the wrong thing the entire time!
Anywho, got all the control arm bushings replaced now, just need to tighten everything back up and double check everything. New brake pads and rotors are getting ordered today.
