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- MazdaSpeed 6
(thumb) your really really making me want to order all of my stuff now.. 
What have you done to your Mazda6 today?
- Thread starter Antoine
- Start date
dougefresh_
Member
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- 2006 MS6 wwp
All I did today was get frustrated checking the delivery confirmation in vain of my busted PTP hpfp I dhipped back at the beginning of last week! I sent it out USPS Priority (2-3 day mail) on Jun 8th, and it STILL hasn't been delivered yet!!! WTF?! I'm starting to get a little worried here, because when I initially sent my "core" back when I bought their pre-assembled pump, and sent the core back to them Priority mail, they had it two days after I shipped it. Not sure what's going on here, but I'm not too happy about it. I was expecting them to get it last Friday at the latest, and ship the new one the same day (they said they would). I'm still waiting on the new Perrin ebcs so it's no big deal IF I the new pump gets shipped and arrives this Thursday so I can install both and focus on finishing the tune of the new ebcs. Why did I send the hpfp back Priority mail if it's taking a full week to get there?! wtf... I HATE waiting for parts, esp when I shell out extra loot for apparently no reason. /rant
sun of a b****! I need your help guys. I had some electrical issues tonight on the way home. the car started up fine. I let it idle for about 5 minutes before I left work. Came to a stop and put my left turn signal to turn out. When I hit the brakes and the turn signal at once the headlights flickered. My 3 center guages on the dash board flickered on and off. The radio cut out. the a/c cut off. It was as if I diconnected the battery for a split second. Car was still running. The passeneger windows would not work. Which what happens when you disconnect the battery. What the hell!?!?!? The car drove perfect for an hour this morning. It drove perfect on dinner break tonight. It must be all the lighting that was on!? This scared me because I wasnt sure if I could drive the car home or not. So I turned back into work and parked. All my connections were perfect. Nothing came loose or undone. I cut the car on and off a couple times. No issues. But at idle when I revved the car the headlights flickered and the center gauges flickered on and off.
So then I turned the car off once again and it went completely dead. Even the rpm needle stopped at 1200 and didnt go back down to 0 when I cut iff off. I tried to turn it over again twice and nothing! I let it sit there for a minute and it cranked up like a charm. When I revved it or hit the brakes the lights didnt flicker. It was like it used to be. So I let it idle for about 10 minutes. Then left to go home. It did good for about 5 miles then te headlights started pulsating bright to dim just cruising. Not any electrical draws. I even turned my ac off, radio off, and fog lights off to save as much power as I could. I made it home in one piece. This must have been meant to happened. I made a pit stop at a church parking lot on the way and as I slowed down to turn left into the lot, 3 large deer came darting out of the trees from the right side of the road. Holy s*** I came so close to being nailed. Which I would have if I didnt turn.... scary huh?
I also had to drive it slow. As soon as I gave it good throttle the engine was cutting out.....
Anyways. What the hell is going on. All conections are perfect. I have a feeling it could be a grounding issue. Could this be? I have 3 4 gauge wires in the back being grounded to the floors sheet metal. All of which I used a grinder on to contact bare metal. Any advise would be appreciated. I hope to get up and try to fix this in the morning.
So then I turned the car off once again and it went completely dead. Even the rpm needle stopped at 1200 and didnt go back down to 0 when I cut iff off. I tried to turn it over again twice and nothing! I let it sit there for a minute and it cranked up like a charm. When I revved it or hit the brakes the lights didnt flicker. It was like it used to be. So I let it idle for about 10 minutes. Then left to go home. It did good for about 5 miles then te headlights started pulsating bright to dim just cruising. Not any electrical draws. I even turned my ac off, radio off, and fog lights off to save as much power as I could. I made it home in one piece. This must have been meant to happened. I made a pit stop at a church parking lot on the way and as I slowed down to turn left into the lot, 3 large deer came darting out of the trees from the right side of the road. Holy s*** I came so close to being nailed. Which I would have if I didnt turn.... scary huh?
I also had to drive it slow. As soon as I gave it good throttle the engine was cutting out.....Anyways. What the hell is going on. All conections are perfect. I have a feeling it could be a grounding issue. Could this be? I have 3 4 gauge wires in the back being grounded to the floors sheet metal. All of which I used a grinder on to contact bare metal. Any advise would be appreciated. I hope to get up and try to fix this in the morning.
Funkster777
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 6
Maybe the wires to the front are broken, kinked, or the sheath is worn off so it is contacting metal and shortening itself out.
No kinks. I ran it through the rubber piece on the firwall. I kept it away from any sharp edges during the install. It may be the grounding point under the hood where the power wires run to. Now that I remember I had a hard time getting the ground terminal compressed onto it. Its pretty snug and not coming off but there is some slight play in it so you can wiggle it.
sun of a b****! I need your help guys. I had some electrical issues tonight on the way home. the car started up fine. I let it idle for about 5 minutes before I left work. Came to a stop and put my left turn signal to turn out. When I hit the brakes and the turn signal at once the headlights flickered. My 3 center guages on the dash board flickered on and off. The radio cut out. the a/c cut off. It was as if I diconnected the battery for a split second. Car was still running. The passeneger windows would not work. Which what happens when you disconnect the battery. What the hell!?!?!? The car drove perfect for an hour this morning. It drove perfect on dinner break tonight. It must be all the lighting that was on!? This scared me because I wasnt sure if I could drive the car home or not. So I turned back into work and parked. All my connections were perfect. Nothing came loose or undone. I cut the car on and off a couple times. No issues. But at idle when I revved the car the headlights flickered and the center gauges flickered on and off.
So then I turned the car off once again and it went completely dead. Even the rpm needle stopped at 1200 and didnt go back down to 0 when I cut iff off. I tried to turn it over again twice and nothing! I let it sit there for a minute and it cranked up like a charm. When I revved it or hit the brakes the lights didnt flicker. It was like it used to be. So I let it idle for about 10 minutes. Then left to go home. It did good for about 5 miles then te headlights started pulsating bright to dim just cruising. Not any electrical draws. I even turned my ac off, radio off, and fog lights off to save as much power as I could. I made it home in one piece. This must have been meant to happened. I made a pit stop at a church parking lot on the way and as I slowed down to turn left into the lot, 3 large deer came darting out of the trees from the right side of the road. Holy s*** I came so close to being nailed. Which I would have if I didnt turn.... scary huh?
Anyways. What the hell is going on. All conections are perfect. I have a feeling it could be a grounding issue. Could this be? I have 3 4 gauge wires in the back being grounded to the floors sheet metal. All of which I used a grinder on to contact bare metal. Any advise would be appreciated. I hope to get up and try to fix this in the morning.
I'm not the smartest person ever, nor do I claim to have anywhere near the amount of experience as you and other forum members when it comes to these cars, so if I say something stupid just ignore it lol.
On my previous vehicle (06 Mazda 6 s) I had similar problems after I had installed my subs, gauges, HIDS, and other power stealing mods. I would hit the gas and lights would dim, engine would bog down, ac would die, display and gauge lights would dim, etc. So could it possibly be the fact that you have too many things stealing power from your battery? In one way it makes sense, but on the other side I'm guessing this problem didn't occur until the battery relocation to your trunk?
If this is the case, and the problems are only occurring AFTER your relocation, then something obviously got back asswards after the install. I noticed that you did the smartest thing every by fusing those positive lines, maybe check the connections and fuses? I don't know. Maybe you could take one of your ground wires and instead of using the trunk body to ground it, you could route it to the stock battery grounding location/cable?
Maybe your battery is dying? If you have a proper battery test tool you can test your Cold Cranking Amps and see how your battery is holding up.
So basically what I'm trying to say is:
1) I'm a newb so if my advice sucks just ignore it lol.
2) Maybe too many mods stealing power from battery??
3) Agreeing on the possibility of a bad ground
4) Possibly a dying battery.
I hope this is helpful in anyway at all. Keep us updated with what's going down.
-Malcolm
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- MazdaSpeed 6
thats definetly a power issue.. not from you switching to the blow thru.. its night time now but if you can get in your garage and take a look at all your connections and such without waking anyone up id advise you too..somewhere theres a short, most likely a ground.. as your driving that loose or wiggly connection might be moving just a bit too much or it wiggled loose over time today and is causing the issue too
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Thanks for the responses.
I have the car in the garage now. I removed my sub box and the carpet in the trunk. All the connections are good. There is one ground wire in the trunk that is a little loose but nothing a larger screw wont take care of. As far as bad battery. I dont think so. Its starts up as soon as it turns over. Earlier today I had the car running with my 15" sub blasting and no issues. The system sounds louder now...
One thing i noticed is that even with the radio off all the way home tonight. The amp in the trunk powering the sub was quite warm. the laser temp gun I have said 100 degrees.
One other thing is I dont know if the exhaust itslef will make the floor in the trunk rather hot?? When I took out the carpet the floor was pretty hot at about 100 degrees as well. I took the laser temp gauge to all the wiring and nothing was hot. They were all pretty cool.
so its safe to say grounding issue? Is the trunks sheet metal a good ground or should I go for something in the trunk that is more solid?
As far as it being too much on the batter. Yes and no. Before there was no issue with lights diming with all my lights on and the system blasting. My headlights have never onced dimmed since I have had the car. Then i say yes because when I hit the brakes and use the turn signals it draws down the voltage big time.
I forgot to mention that using the voltage meter ont he dashhawk. during idle and cuise its 13.5 volts. When I hit the brakes and the lights dim and flicker. It drops straight down to the 9's and then comes back up.
I have the car in the garage now. I removed my sub box and the carpet in the trunk. All the connections are good. There is one ground wire in the trunk that is a little loose but nothing a larger screw wont take care of. As far as bad battery. I dont think so. Its starts up as soon as it turns over. Earlier today I had the car running with my 15" sub blasting and no issues. The system sounds louder now...
One thing i noticed is that even with the radio off all the way home tonight. The amp in the trunk powering the sub was quite warm. the laser temp gun I have said 100 degrees.
One other thing is I dont know if the exhaust itslef will make the floor in the trunk rather hot?? When I took out the carpet the floor was pretty hot at about 100 degrees as well. I took the laser temp gauge to all the wiring and nothing was hot. They were all pretty cool.
so its safe to say grounding issue? Is the trunks sheet metal a good ground or should I go for something in the trunk that is more solid?
As far as it being too much on the batter. Yes and no. Before there was no issue with lights diming with all my lights on and the system blasting. My headlights have never onced dimmed since I have had the car. Then i say yes because when I hit the brakes and use the turn signals it draws down the voltage big time.
I forgot to mention that using the voltage meter ont he dashhawk. during idle and cuise its 13.5 volts. When I hit the brakes and the lights dim and flicker. It drops straight down to the 9's and then comes back up.
The Great NY
Member
- :
- 2004 Mazda Atenza(6)
I need to run it for longer than a day to let everyone know.
(thumb) your really really making me want to order all of my stuff now..
told u guys blow thru is the way to go
sun of a b****! I need your help guys. I had some electrical issues tonight on the way home. the car started up fine. I let it idle for about 5 minutes before I left work. Came to a stop and put my left turn signal to turn out. When I hit the brakes and the turn signal at once the headlights flickered. My 3 center guages on the dash board flickered on and off. The radio cut out. the a/c cut off. It was as if I diconnected the battery for a split second. Car was still running. The passeneger windows would not work. Which what happens when you disconnect the battery. What the hell!?!?!? The car drove perfect for an hour this morning. It drove perfect on dinner break tonight. It must be all the lighting that was on!? This scared me because I wasnt sure if I could drive the car home or not. So I turned back into work and parked. All my connections were perfect. Nothing came loose or undone. I cut the car on and off a couple times. No issues. But at idle when I revved the car the headlights flickered and the center gauges flickered on and off.
So then I turned the car off once again and it went completely dead. Even the rpm needle stopped at 1200 and didnt go back down to 0 when I cut iff off. I tried to turn it over again twice and nothing! I let it sit there for a minute and it cranked up like a charm. When I revved it or hit the brakes the lights didnt flicker. It was like it used to be. So I let it idle for about 10 minutes. Then left to go home. It did good for about 5 miles then te headlights started pulsating bright to dim just cruising. Not any electrical draws. I even turned my ac off, radio off, and fog lights off to save as much power as I could. I made it home in one piece. This must have been meant to happened. I made a pit stop at a church parking lot on the way and as I slowed down to turn left into the lot, 3 large deer came darting out of the trees from the right side of the road. Holy s*** I came so close to being nailed. Which I would have if I didnt turn.... scary huh?
Anyways. What the hell is going on. All conections are perfect. I have a feeling it could be a grounding issue. Could this be? I have 3 4 gauge wires in the back being grounded to the floors sheet metal. All of which I used a grinder on to contact bare metal. Any advise would be appreciated. I hope to get up and try to fix this in the morning.
hey, not sure if you saw my posts from right after u said u got the car back together. but look above in red. i qouted my post from earlier
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dougefresh_
Member
- :
- 2006 MS6 wwp
It sounds like your battery is either dying, the alternator is not charging it, or the battery is too small and can't crank out the energy your car demands. Is that smaller battery new, or did you just move it to the trunk? I'd check that batter, and the gauge of the wire definitely, especially if you went to a smaller gauge running the trunk wires as someone mentioned. Sorry to hear of your problems man, that sucks. They just got my fuel pump yesterday... so they said the replacement will ship out today. The USPS better get their s*** together... sent it in Priority Mail and it almost took and entire business week.... wtf
The Great NY
Member
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- 2004 Mazda Atenza(6)
The Great NY
Member
- :
- 2004 Mazda Atenza(6)
its not gonna be the ones in the back causing the issue bro. its getting from the rear to the front. grounds drop off sometimes or moreso not that good to getting to the front from the back.
and if you used 4-8ga for your power run from the battery back to the front. thanks definately going to need to be bigger. like the 0/1ga when u get a chance.
dougefresh_
Member
- :
- 2006 MS6 wwp
Definitely a larger gauge. I used to use 4 guage Monster Cable for my stereo crap back in the day! lol 0/1 gauge must be pretty huge.... I'm not sure where he ran it, but will that 0/1 gauge fit under the door sills? It must be like 1/2" thick!
wow weird electrical issues Taylor! Definitly good advice already.
As NY said, the rear to front ground lines can sometimes drop off due to too small a line.
I would temporarily run a larger gauge wire before you pull the old line to first test to see if that solves the issue.
Although it probly isnt the rear connections, it wont hurt to make sure they are all bolted down solid without any play or wiggle. Remember, if your exhaust is heating up your whole trunk, that metals & plastics expand/contract with temp changes... aka if a connection is slightly loose, that can be JUST enough to get intermittent contact as the metal expands or contracts...
Doubt thats the issue though, i very much doubt its the alternator, they should'NT go bad that soon.
UNLESS of course you removed the heat shield between the turbo manifold and the alternator, which in THAT case, the crazy heat could kill it for sure.
Check all in line fuses, check all stock fuses, check all physical battery connections, check cold cranking amps, check more stuff... lol idk. basically repeating what everyone said. Good Luck man, i bet it turns out to be a simple "oh look this one connection isnt tight" type of thing!... i hope its that simple. lol
As NY said, the rear to front ground lines can sometimes drop off due to too small a line.
I would temporarily run a larger gauge wire before you pull the old line to first test to see if that solves the issue.
Although it probly isnt the rear connections, it wont hurt to make sure they are all bolted down solid without any play or wiggle. Remember, if your exhaust is heating up your whole trunk, that metals & plastics expand/contract with temp changes... aka if a connection is slightly loose, that can be JUST enough to get intermittent contact as the metal expands or contracts...
Doubt thats the issue though, i very much doubt its the alternator, they should'NT go bad that soon.
UNLESS of course you removed the heat shield between the turbo manifold and the alternator, which in THAT case, the crazy heat could kill it for sure.
Check all in line fuses, check all stock fuses, check all physical battery connections, check cold cranking amps, check more stuff... lol idk. basically repeating what everyone said. Good Luck man, i bet it turns out to be a simple "oh look this one connection isnt tight" type of thing!... i hope its that simple. lol
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