What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

Where did you find the deflectors? I've been thinking about getting some but found them hard to find.

Have you noticed if they make more wind noise, or reduce the wind noise?

. TIA!
I got these on eBay. I find these very helpful when driving with windows just cracked open. They allow plenty air in, but without the usual in your face speed. Can also drive with windows cracked slightly open in the rain.
 
Press on the boots really good, and check for cracks. If they're not cracked, meh, ride it until they do, and then just replace the whole axle. It's less work, and only a few bucks more than only doing the boot by itself.

Though I would suggest being selective in buying replacements. A couple of years ago, I bought left and right replacement CV axles new from NAPA's cheaper line. Both had insane issues with them - one made a terrible noise whenever I accelerated, and the other made a terrible noise whenever I wasn't accelerating! I ended up giving up and putting the suspect originals back on, and returned the defective replacements. (Ended up doing wheel bearings and CV boots, and things are better now.) Maybe other brands are better?
 
I got these on eBay. I find these very helpful when driving with windows just cracked open. They allow plenty air in, but without the usual in your face speed. Can also drive with windows cracked slightly open in the rain.

For the rear windows, do they get rid of that horrible pulsating resonance whenever those windows are open at all?
 
I haven't posted on here in years..lol... still have the 5, aka, the "TourBus" (I'm a semi-pro musician) ;-)
It turned 250k miles a month or so ago and I've been on an ongoing refresh/replace project for the past year and a half or so (as time allowed) as I intend to keep it for as long as possible. So work done so far includes a fairly comprehensive suspension refresh front and rear, so new LCAs, swaybar links and bushings; same for the rear with upper and lower control arms, swaybar links and bushings, new struts and shocks with associated "stuff"... I do trans fluid changes about every 50K and engine oil about 5k. Additionally, installed some Kilmat sound deadening (not a full install) but still decently effective; a new Sony HU replaces the factory radio. Still rolling strong!!
 
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For the rear windows, do they get rid of that horrible pulsating resonance whenever those windows are open at all?
The resonance is still there when only one of the rear windows is open. With both rear windows open, or with any other one open window, that resonance goes away.
 
Took my ‘13 Mazda5 to shop Friday. I was getting only 10mpg so I figured I had a major evap leak, but I couldn’t find it. The shop said it’s my evap canister. I think they meant the vapor canister by the fuel tank even though the guy said under the engine. Anyways quoted me a price of $1200 to fix. I find that exorbitantly high to replace a $230 canister that is clearly visible when I went under the car. Am I being taken for a sucker or is there a evap canister somewhere else???
 
Took my ‘13 Mazda5 to shop Friday. I was getting only 10mpg so I figured I had a major evap leak, but I couldn’t find it. The shop said it’s my evap canister. I think they meant the vapor canister by the fuel tank even though the guy said under the engine. Anyways quoted me a price of $1200 to fix. I find that exorbitantly high to replace a $230 canister that is clearly visible when I went under the car. Am I being taken for a sucker or is there a evap canister somewhere else???
Had a low MPG experience but cannot say if this related to your issue. Try replacing the EVAP purge valve; cheap and easily accessible under the hood. Don't know of any EVAP component under the engine. I believe a major leak or clogged EVAP canister triggers CEL and as you stated, that too is cheap and easily accessible for DIY.

 
I am curious, my keyfob buttons never worked and is held together with electric tape. That was how the key was when we got the car.
My question is there a way I can buy a gob shell case to swap my key and innards to, or do I just have to bite the bullet and get all new keyfob and have it cut and programmed?
 
I am curious, my keyfob buttons never worked and is held together with electric tape. That was how the key was when we got the car.
My question is there a way I can buy a gob shell case to swap my key and innards to, or do I just have to bite the bullet and get all new keyfob and have it cut and programmed?

Getting the little circuit board out of the fob is easy enough. I've taken mine apart to clean some lint out of the little rubber membrane when the buttons weren't pressing well. If you've ever had to swap the battery, its the same process.

You can take the key blade out of the housing by removing a pin that holds the blade to the housing. If you flip open the blade at about 90 degrees, you can see a little hole with the pin in it near the top of the housing. Once you push that through, the key blade will pull out with some amount of force.

As far as getting an empty shell with the folding mechanism, I am not certain.
 
I am curious, my keyfob buttons never worked and is held together with electric tape. That was how the key was when we got the car.
My question is there a way I can buy a gob shell case to swap my key and innards to, or do I just have to bite the bullet and get all new keyfob and have it cut and programmed?

On thing to consider is how *broke* it actually is. If the board itself is broken, a new case won't make a difference. If it blinks but doesn't open/close doors it's lost its ID. and a dealer *might* agree to reprogram that for you. Usually cars have to reprogram all keys and fobs at one time.
 
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