What have you done to your Mazda5 today?
- Thread starter Rockin03mp5
- Start date
phunky.buddha
Booga Booga?
- :
- DFW TX
- :
- No mo MZ5 want MX5
Hi!
After finally getting my 2 Moog sway bar links, part# K750069 delivered. I was a little bit dismayed to find that the second box tht I opened only contained one zerk fitting. Talked to Amazon earlier this morning, they offered me a 10% discount vs sending it back for another one. I opted for the money as it was more than enough for me to purchase a replacement fitting which I did today for $2.99 for an 8pk. So I can finish it today. I didn't hang the new sb because I didn't want to try to get the new fitting in while on my back. Oh, I also received Prothane Red 26 mm Universal Greasable Sway Bar Bushing part #19-1182 also. I can finish it this morning!
BTW; if anyone finds that their zerk fitting is missing from their SB link with the above part number, the fitting size is 1/4 and the pitch is 28.
BTW; if anyone finds that their zerk fitting is missing from their SB link with the above part number, the fitting size is 1/4 and the pitch is 28.
phunky.buddha
Booga Booga?
- :
- DFW TX
- :
- No mo MZ5 want MX5
Good info, thanks!
Installed my MS3 swaybar today along with prothane bushings. Feels tight, but hey, it always did. I haven't had a chance to try it in a sweeper but I'm sure before the weekend is out. I did remove the collars due to the larger size of the Prothanes. Just stuck in a flathead screwdriver and gave it a twist.. Oh, I don't know what the deal is for other years, but for a 2010 touring it is NOT necessary to take off the center pan when removing and installing the RSB. When I first got under there, I thought there was more than enough room. Slid right in and out. I know its only 4 bolts, but if its an older vehicle with a lot of bad winters under the tires, you don't want to have to turn a bolt that doesn't really need it.
Took my favorite sweeper yesterday. The car cornered significantly flatter and was more confidence inspiring than the previous setup. I used to own a 1998 Subaru 2.5RS with Eibach Pro springs and rear roll bar, the handling is as good as that, and that car was AWD! I can only imagine what it'll be like with better tires. Soon putting on my winter setup.
Began taking apart my RF suspension to get new bearings pressed in both front knuckles. Used the usual pickle forks for the ball joint and tie rod - busted both seals. Will be attempting the LF tomorrow and hoping for better results.
BTW 62,000 mi and 8 years is WAAAAAAYYY too soon for bearing failure, IMHO.
BTW 62,000 mi and 8 years is WAAAAAAYYY too soon for bearing failure, IMHO.
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
I feel your pain, I'm pretty sure my left front wheel bearing is shot. Pickle forks are the worst for tearing seals, I have never been able to separate a tie rod or ball joint without tearing the boot in the process. The only good news is that you only have to tear them apart once. When I replaced the steering rack in my Subaru I had to take the tie rods off three times! (its a loooong story LOL) I got so tired of replacing boots that I just started whacking the stud with the 5 lb sledge to disassemble the damn things. Hearing your tale of woe I'm inclined to call my dad and borrow his ball joint separator when it comes time to fix mine....Oh and i finally got my drivers side HID figured out, so much better driving at night with two headlights.
Well, its all apart. Left the tie rod ends connected b/c I'm worried about how to replace them and not screw up alignment.
FYI TO ALL: right front control arm - the front bushing bolt hits the AC compressor before it can be removed, and so the control arm cannot be removed w/o extra effort. I guess some would drop the subframe, but I don't have a 22mm socket. Instead I got a wood block, placed it on the jack head and raised the powertrain by the oil pan. It goes up enough to miss the coolant line, but hits the shield. Need a 12mm deep socket to remove the 3 bolts holding the shield in addition to raising the engine to get the bolt out.
Going to the shop tomorrow and bringing along the control arms to see if the ball joints can be pressed out/in for a reasonable cost and I'll be ordering just the ball joints instead of the entire arm. After another member had problems with an aftermarket rear control arm breaking only 3 mos after installation, I want to keep the OE control arms on the car.
FYI TO ALL: right front control arm - the front bushing bolt hits the AC compressor before it can be removed, and so the control arm cannot be removed w/o extra effort. I guess some would drop the subframe, but I don't have a 22mm socket. Instead I got a wood block, placed it on the jack head and raised the powertrain by the oil pan. It goes up enough to miss the coolant line, but hits the shield. Need a 12mm deep socket to remove the 3 bolts holding the shield in addition to raising the engine to get the bolt out.
Going to the shop tomorrow and bringing along the control arms to see if the ball joints can be pressed out/in for a reasonable cost and I'll be ordering just the ball joints instead of the entire arm. After another member had problems with an aftermarket rear control arm breaking only 3 mos after installation, I want to keep the OE control arms on the car.
Indelibility
Member
Phew, what a day.
-I changed the spark plugs out to NGL Iridium's, easy peasy.
-Installed the JBR rear sway bar, what a difference! I set it on the middle setting and took my favorite on-ramp. This is how the car should've come.
Stock vs. JBR
Installed and ready to go!
Then I adjusted my shift linkage since getting into 5th with the JBR shift plate was a major PITA. Now it shifts like butter.
To top it all off, I managed 28.5mpg. It was a good day.
-I changed the spark plugs out to NGL Iridium's, easy peasy.
-Installed the JBR rear sway bar, what a difference! I set it on the middle setting and took my favorite on-ramp. This is how the car should've come.
Stock vs. JBR
Installed and ready to go!
Then I adjusted my shift linkage since getting into 5th with the JBR shift plate was a major PITA. Now it shifts like butter.
To top it all off, I managed 28.5mpg. It was a good day.
phunky.buddha
Booga Booga?
- :
- DFW TX
- :
- No mo MZ5 want MX5
Nice! The 5 definitely benefits from a fat rear sway bar.
Indelibility
Member
It's fairly easy, just be prepared to work the four bolts off the jack support.
I know this might be comparing apples to oranges, but i removed my original bar from my 2010 and installed a 2007 ms3 bar and never removed that support pan witht the four bolts. there was plenty of room. but i don't know what the dimensions and angles of your bar is. I'm just saying try it first. you may save some time.. Oh, and I took it out thru the driver's side (left) and installed the other swaybar thru the left as well.
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rodslinger
Member
Brakes... Ugh...
Well I noticed the front pads are nearly gone. About 2mm left. Ordered up a set of Centric slitted and dimpled Mazdaspeed 3 rotors for the front and some loaded calipers. SS brake lines. Matching slotted and dimpled rotors for the rear. Doing the MS3 front brake upgrade. Should be done tomorrow sometime.
Well I noticed the front pads are nearly gone. About 2mm left. Ordered up a set of Centric slitted and dimpled Mazdaspeed 3 rotors for the front and some loaded calipers. SS brake lines. Matching slotted and dimpled rotors for the rear. Doing the MS3 front brake upgrade. Should be done tomorrow sometime.
