What have you done to your CX-5 today?

It popped off again. I think this strut is defective. It positively clicks on but won't stay on the ball. It also doesn't sound like the other one when extending. Normally you get that hydraulic strut whirr but this one sounds rough. Just my luck...

View attachment 329093

It went full send. Never go full send.

Another thing is that the socket on each end is plastic which I don't feel great about. And they rub against the hood bracket bolt. I don't know if that will cause any issues but it's already scraped off some of the plastic and I've only articulated it a dozen or so times.

View attachment 329094

I might ask for a replacement but I need to think on it. Is it cool and helpful to have them? Definitely. Do I question their long-term durability...yeah, I do.

View attachment 329095

The struts themselves seem too strong, even with the heavy CX-5 hood. I've traded faffing with the prop rod for having to pull the hood down with force because the struts are crazy strong. Not sure which is worse...

Edit: I found the problem. The upper strut connector rubs against the hood bracket bolt, pushing it out of the socket. I mounted it the same way most people recommended (and who never reported any problems) which is to have the bracket facing forward with the ball inward. The issue is that the bolt has a lot of play within the hole so you have to put force against it so that it is all the way to one side and clears the plastic strut connector. There are no instructions telling you this and it is not obvious at all when you are installing. Make sure the bracket is pulled forward as far as it will go. Connect the top of the strut first and move it through its range of motion, making sure it clears the bolt. And it still rubs at the bottom of the range of motion, scraping off some of the plastic. It's not a good design. I hope people see this and avoid damaging their car.

Also, now my hood is not aligned properly when closed. That will take removal of the struts and more fiddling.

What a night. Thought this would be a simple install and I ended up having more problems than anyone else. Wish I wouldn't have bothered.
I bought these:
Made in the USA and good quality. Work really good. They come in black and silver. Easy install. Worth the cost over the Chinese specials.
 
IMG_9760.jpeg
Gave her a fresh wash.
 
New member here, with a 2023 CX-5 KURO MCG lined with SATIN PPF. What I did today, I just installed , a 5D interior carpet. hope I can do more in the future. nice "meeting" y'all.
 
It popped off again. I think this strut is defective. It positively clicks on but won't stay on the ball. It also doesn't sound like the other one when extending. Normally you get that hydraulic strut whirr but this one sounds rough. Just my luck...

View attachment 329093

It went full send. Never go full send.

Another thing is that the socket on each end is plastic which I don't feel great about. And they rub against the hood bracket bolt. I don't know if that will cause any issues but it's already scraped off some of the plastic and I've only articulated it a dozen or so times.

View attachment 329094

I might ask for a replacement but I need to think on it. Is it cool and helpful to have them? Definitely. Do I question their long-term durability...yeah, I do.

View attachment 329095

The struts themselves seem too strong, even with the heavy CX-5 hood. I've traded faffing with the prop rod for having to pull the hood down with force because the struts are crazy strong. Not sure which is worse...

Edit: I found the problem. The upper strut connector rubs against the hood bracket bolt, pushing it out of the socket. I mounted it the same way most people recommended (and who never reported any problems) which is to have the bracket facing forward with the ball inward. The issue is that the bolt has a lot of play within the hole so you have to put force against it so that it is all the way to one side and clears the plastic strut connector. There are no instructions telling you this and it is not obvious at all when you are installing. Make sure the bracket is pulled forward as far as it will go. Connect the top of the strut first and move it through its range of motion, making sure it clears the bolt. And it still rubs at the bottom of the range of motion, scraping off some of the plastic. It's not a good design. I hope people see this and avoid damaging their car.

Also, now my hood is not aligned properly when closed. That will take removal of the struts and more fiddling.

What a night. Thought this would be a simple install and I ended up having more problems than anyone else. Wish I wouldn't have bothered.
Boy sure glad I signed up to this forum, I purchased the same hood damper, about to install them, until i found this post. thanks for sharing @N7turbo, at the end of the day, are you sticking with them or changing them out?
 
Boy sure glad I signed up to this forum, I purchased the same hood damper, about to install them, until i found this post. thanks for sharing @N7turbo, at the end of the day, are you sticking with them or changing them out?
Install fiasco aside, I think the functionality of them will have me keep them on.
 
Some minor klunks and knocks have been occasionally coming from the front suspension, lately. Had a shop do the LCA "dance":

  • Lower Control Arms, left/right
  • Tie Rod Ends, left/right
  • Alignment
  • Checked all other bushings, links, arms -- all else seemed fine, albeit aged; will likely get several other of the links/bushings done when I eventually get to the shocks (which aren't needed yet).

Ahhh. Much nicer. Handling feels "tighter" and better-planted. Had been getting a little "floaty" but I'd not paid as much attention to that as I should have. They lasted over 100Kmi, so I shouldn't be that surprised.

Time for tires, by mid-Autumn. Probably rear brakes, as well; better prior to winter.
 
Measured front inner tie rod nut size, KD31-32-240B, it is 33.8 mm
Bought MADDOX Inner Tie Rod Tool Set to change to inner tie rods
Measured Rear Differential Center Rear Support Bushing area to press in ~ 2.5 in (it is like 2.48-2.49) I got this one to replace - that is just the available press in edge the bushing itself is a tad bigger
If you're replacing rear lower control arms and are using Mevotech Supreme parts and have the levelling sensor be prepared to install M6 nut rivet into the arm for the bolt.

I am debating if I am going to replace the trailing arms and hardware I bought ... all of that plastic and the hardware holding the plastic looks questionable. Am afraid it will break apart and I'll have to macgyver putting it back. Ugh. I'll take a wire wheel and see what happens.
Wow; am I missing something? Like "what you're doing"?!
 
I was going to try to ride them out until the end of the season until my Blizzaks, but the horrible HTR-800s the dealer I bought my CX-5 from were down to 3/32 and my rear end was starting to slide around in the rain. I got some Continental CrossContact LX25s and the difference has been outstanding! I won't have much to report on their snow capability, but last night driving around in the rain was much safer, and driving around on dry pavement this morning was much quieter.
 
Replaced both front lower control arms and sway bar end links this past Sunday. The bushing were torn badly on the control arms, and the end links were twisted and the boots torn. Resulted in pretty mushy steering and some clunking noises, not to mention the general lousy-goosey feeling of the car.

Double-checked the tie rods, cv joints, boots, etc. and those at least all still look good. Also inspected my rotors and brake pads while I had the wheels off and those were looking fantastic. I had replaced all of those 2 years ago and the rotors were smooth and pads wearing evenly.

Ran out of time so decided to pay a local shop labor to replace my struts (I have the new OE parts) and then do an alignment this upcoming Monday.
 
Tightened down this bugger and tripled down on the threadlocker because it was clunking like crazy...starting to wish I could get non-adjustable links made to any size needed.

PXL_20240802_051230662-1.webp


Sorry I can't upload better resolution, guys, we're stuck at 1280x720 like it's 2005!!!
 
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