well it happened this morning

IDK HOW U DID IT BUT I HAVE HERD FROM SEVERAL DEALERS THAT MAZDA NEED PICS OF THE TURBO AND EHAUST IN THE CAR! bc they know an downpipe causes the seals to fail! and they wana see before they warranty

idk how they got around it but they did congrats
 
downpipes do not cause the turbos to fail.. the cats in the DP just hide the damn problem from the get go, and most smoking issues are pcv problems, blow by from that section, add a catch can and most problems will go away... and also he has a MS3 not MS6 , i read 3 times that his car was called a ms6
 
IDK HOW U DID IT BUT I HAVE HERD FROM SEVERAL DEALERS THAT MAZDA NEED PICS OF THE TURBO AND EHAUST IN THE CAR! bc they know an downpipe causes the seals to fail! and they wana see before they warranty

idk how they got around it but they did congrats

DOWN PIPES DO NOT CAUSE SEALS TO GO BAD!!! Get your facts skraight people. If the seals are bad then tuff s***. Only difference is that if you go to a 3" exhaust system as I hav eyou will notice the problem right away.
 
i was just telling u all what the dealer told me about the issue! thats all! i wasnt arguing or anything!

just saying i was told for the head service adviser

"mazda wants pictures of any car that comes in for warranty turbo replacement"
 
Hate to tell you but its not the turbo. I have a new turbo and it smokes at idle
its the PVC system opening up under idle and letting s*** in. Order and install
a catch can i know i am.

Would a krank vent also prevent smoking?? Just trying to look for something that doesn't take up as much space under my hood.
 
Just replace the PCV valve with a better one, like a '97 Toyota Supra valve or you could put a Krank Vent in there, although they're overpriced. The Supra PCV valve is like $4 at Autozone. Alot of auto manufacturers put bad PCV valves in the their cars because they're a 5 cent part. Unfortunately, in turbocharged cars, they can't hold boost.
 
IDK HOW U DID IT BUT I HAVE HERD FROM SEVERAL DEALERS THAT MAZDA NEED PICS OF THE TURBO AND EHAUST IN THE CAR! bc they know an downpipe causes the seals to fail! and they wana see before they warranty

idk how they got around it but they did congrats

They simply say the car has no mods. Thats it.
 
the mazda warranty rep will only show up if when the tech calls for a new turbo as a replacement for warranty he tell the tech he needs to see the car, in my case that didnt happen, as a matter of fact the tech guy called me after i left to show where the leak was, also he told me that he had taken already the bad turbo out and he was waiting for the new one to show up which its today to put everything back together. mazda does not have a rep at every dealer waiting for a smoking turbo to show up. nonsense.


Just to let you know, Mazda USA will make the determination if the rep is to be called, not the tech or service manager. Mazda is taking a hard look at all turbo issues on the Speed 3's and 6's as well. Once you take you car in for service, and determine that the turbo is bad, they may, let me emphasize may, ask that they take photos of your engine bay and ask if any modifications have been made on the car.

So, just because the dealership said everything is cool, does not mean that Mazda USA can deny the claim or request that the area manager has to sign off on the warranty work.
 
stay away from the 5w30, thats my advice. The turbo engine can 'get away' with it, but the turbo itself.. NO turbo, regardless of vehicle manufacters rec. should run ever be running an EC 5w30. It thins way too much when it's locally heated by the turbo and with the pressure seeeps past the turbo seals. Synth 5w30, esp like Mobil 1 dont burn off as easily, but will instead shear down to a superthin viscosity and with pressure get forced past the seals, referred to as temporary shear. Use an oil with a high HTHS rating, if you dont want to be rebuilding your turbo after your first oil change.
 
try Redline (their 5w30 is tougher as others' 10w40), or any oil marketed as "European formula" like Synthetic 5w40 or 0w40. Even a high HTHS synth 0w30, which can be tricky to spot. One worthy of mention is Castrol Syntec 0w30 (that says Made In Germany on the back) is like the only Castrol Syntec formula that is actually PAO synthetic. These engines Direct Inject the fuel on the intake stroke, and it wets the cylinder walls, some of the fuel sticks to the cylinder wall and washes past the rings as it they sweep over it and the oil underneath picks that raw fuel right up. The result is fuel dilution, and when using an already thin EC oil, will cause the oil to break down even further than it should when it gets superheated, such as running through the turbo cartridge. Direct Injection cars (all) suffer this problem, and thas why oil selection is even more nessecary.

High HTHS rated oils stand up to dilution much better than EC oils, which is why no diesel or european turbo engine uses 5w30, EVER, 5w40 minimum, and they have to meet those manufacturer's proprietary specs.
 
It is the dealers that call Mazda and set the red flags. Just go ask the non-ass dealers.
There are even dealers that will modify your Speed3, Mustang, CX-7, F-150..Anything before you even pick it up all under warrenty.
The dealer I purchased my Speed from even has an in house dyno and burns SuperChips on site.
Here is one speed they are selling now...
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...009&doors=&transmission=&max_price=&cardist=6
 
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