weird stuttering when accelerating

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I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same problem when accelerating. I can feel it when shifting through lower gears and sometimes when I'm idling at a light or stop sign. Any insight would help and be nice. Thanks
 
Im throwing a CEL P0455 too. It says evaporative emission system leak detected (gross leak/no flow).. I've read some stuff about egr valves being bad and filling up your car too much... does any of this sound like they relate
 
Don't forget to check the accordion section of the intake tube near the throttle body, if you have the factory intake system still. They're known for tearing and, as the engine shifts in the bay, letting in a ton of unmetered air (on the other side of the MAF sensor). It's a pretty common problem for us, and a pretty easy fix.
 
I had the exact same code,... mine turned out to be the CDCV valve,... $255,... Mazda P5 specific part,... different bracket than the regular Protege.

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I have an sri, so... maybe it came a little loose. Ill check into that in the morning... what's a cdcv valve? I'll look it up, but what was your experience with it? Did your car have a rough idle n stuff?
 
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Canister drain cut valve. Mine seized open and set off the cell. I didn't notice any drivability issues.

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Same thing happened to my p5 a few months back, had to buy new spark plugs & wires. Hope this helps
 
So where do you guys suggest I start? Should I try cleaning the egr valve and see how it runs and if that doesn't work, maybe consider getting a new cdcv part?
 
You can test the operation of your CDCV valve relatively easily,... just follow the steps above.

I figure a stuck open CDCV valve could act a bit like a vacuum leak. (at the least, your gas would be evaporating and venting out the valve)

The purge control valve could be stuck open and cause a noticeable vacuum leak. It is also quite easy to test.

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The purge control valve is only supposed to open when the conditions list above are met. If it is stuck open, it will definitely act as a vacuum leak that is most noticeable at idle and low engine RPM's.

I think you should check your purge control valve first. It's really easy to get to and test and the most likely candidate.
 
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I just pulled my purge solenoid valve off and one of the hoses is like a lot shorter and at first we thought it wasn't attached, but we found where it had pulled from. Then we played with the hoses for a minute and then we reconnected how I pulled em off and the car was doing the same thing. We saw a little diagram on the hood and it looked like the hoses were opposite. We switched the hoses around and it seemed fine. But if it was because of the hoses, why would it start acting up now..? Any insight helps :) thanks a ton so far
 

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