Water pump: any experience with Cardone unites?

Dimitrios

Contributor
:
2012 CWP MS3
Going to be replacing the timing belt and water pump either this weekend or next.

Does anyone have experience with Cardone pumps?
 
I just got done replacing the timing belt, serptine belts, water pump, UR UDP, thermostat, and PCV value. The biggest suggestion I could give you is get RTV blue silicon sealer ($3.99) at autozone. I thought the supplied gasket would be enough, but it leaked. I put the silicon on the water pump, then put the gasket on, and then some more silicon. I let it sit for at least one hour before I put coolant back in.

Also drain the coolant before you lift the car. Later you should put a piece of wood and jack under the oil pan to hold the engine for taking off the motor mount, leave room to put a drain pan under where the water pump is on the side. You may have to pry at the water pump with a flat head screw driver from the bottom. Make sure the water pump seals before you reassemble. Oh an before you do, be careful not lose your drain plug for your radiator.

Yes I know more detail would help, but I am trying to fix a belt issue with the UDP and get my due school work done.

Magus
 
Dimitrios,
I would mention that I had 102,500 miles on my car with the stock water pump and timing belt. I would also allow at least 2-3 days. You may run into problems and problems eat time. I had to do some parts runs, but hopefully I can get something up soon so that does not happen to you. Well until later.

Magus
 
3 days for a timing belt and water pump?

I replaced an engine for the first time in a mazda in 3 days.

I could do a timing belt on an FSDE in about 4 hours.
 
Well there is a reason for that. I took my time, but more importantly I was missing a socket (17mm deep socket). Then I forgot to check to make sure the water pump was sealed and reassembled the engine. I went to refill and it leaked, and I disassembled the engine again. Went out and get the RTV blue silicon. I waited for it to cure and then realized I was missing my drain plug for the radiator. I went to order it since no one had it. Then I finished my work and got it back up and running. I ran into a problem with a belt being too loose (got a UDP). So I had to get a smaller belt, and that fixed that problem. I just want him to understand that it "could" take a few days. I am sure now I could do it quicker without issue, but you always take longer the first time. Also do not forget about the extra runs that needed to be made.
 
I have used Cardone on RWD stuff without a problem. My personal choice for import parts, if not OE, is Beck Arnley. It is usually repacked OE.
NEVER use silicone with a gasket. That is bad advise. Silicone is made to replace a gasket not slop both sides. If you want to add something with a gasket Permatex makes a non hardening sealer,( it is really thin, 2B I think ) or use spray tack. If you use silicone the best one to use is Mopar or GM silicone from the dealer. Working as a mechanic and shop owner I have had a little experience in this area.
 
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Water pump:

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1312164
CARDONE SELECT Part # 5523126
AIRTEX Part # AW4078

WP Gasket:

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0394104

Timing Belt:

DAYCO Part # 95228
GATES Part # T228
ACDELCO Part # TB228

Timing Belt Kits:

GATES Part # TCK228 { 3 Components (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Idler)}
ACDELCO Part # TCK228 {3 Components (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Idler)}

Timing Belt Tensioner:

GATES Part # T41091
ACDELCO Part # T41091

Idler:

GATES Part # T42008

Valve Cover Gasket:

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0361487
FEL-PRO Part # VS50574R
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0361541 -
Valve Cover Set, Contains Grommets;Contains Spark Plug Tube Seals

Radiator drain plug:

DORMAN Part # 4902161
 
You can choose to do what you want, it seems there a lot of good advice. Honestly, go with the parts DieHonda supplied. I got the timing kit from protege garage (idler, tensioner, tensioner spring, belt) for $129.99 with free shipping. Goodyear Gaterbelts from AutoZone and the water pump from advanceautoparts: ASC with limited lifetime warranty-$78.48

Though in general, just make sure it seals before putting the engine back together. Honestly I could have done without the paper gasket, but simply used it to guide the screws since the blue RTV was still not solid yet. Honestly, I will probably not replace this pump till I hit 202,000 miles. I will honestly worry about it being a pain then. Though honestly I do not see the big deal as to why you should not use the gasket.

By the way, maybe it's my imagination, but why are a few being negative about how long I took and way I do things? (uhm) I am simply trying to help out others so they understand what I experienced. Yeah if you got more experience or a mechanic it might take you less time. This is my daliy driver and I took off time to do this right and not rush. Honestly, Mazda made it pretty easy with the markings on the cam gears and crank gear.(2thumbs) The more I work on this car, the more I come to love my mazda.

Magus
 
Not trying to rip on you. It is good to have a perspective from someone who is learning and not afraid to tear into their car like a lot of people. I am just saying be careful of the advise you give. The reasone you do not use the gasket is because it will be the weak area. I have seen the gasket blow out under pressure because the silicone will let it slide out. PM me if I am not being clear.
Sorry to get off track. Back to WPs.
 
I agree with siegersma

When we did the water pump on the recent engine swap this previous weekend, I didnt even use a gasket, I just reused the one that was adhered to the block. Everything seals up properly with no leaks.

Either use the gasket with some tack to hold it in place, or remove all traces of old gasket and use a thin bead of high temp/high pressre RTV to create a new gasket. Dont use RTV AND a gasket together.
 
Well, it's to late now but I did use the silicon on both sides of the gasket because I was concerned with a proper seal. I also properly torqued down each bolt and went around and recheck the bolts for even fitment. When I took off the water pump I only saw a gasket, and that is why I thought just a gasket would be good enough and it leaked. Oh well, I will add your advice just incase for others. If my seal fails, I will be sure to tell you guys.

Magus
 
Diehonda said:
Water pump:

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1312164
CARDONE SELECT Part # 5523126
AIRTEX Part # AW4078

WP Gasket:

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0394104

Timing Belt:

DAYCO Part # 95228
GATES Part # T228
ACDELCO Part # TB228

Timing Belt Kits:

GATES Part # TCK228 { 3 Components (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Idler)}
ACDELCO Part # TCK228 {3 Components (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Idler)}

Timing Belt Tensioner:

GATES Part # T41091
ACDELCO Part # T41091

Idler:

GATES Part # T42008

Valve Cover Gasket:

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0361487
FEL-PRO Part # VS50574R
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0361541 -
Valve Cover Set, Contains Grommets;Contains Spark Plug Tube Seals

Radiator drain plug:

DORMAN Part # 4902161

Thanks, I had part numbers. I was just looking for a recommendation go/no go on the Cardone.

I didn't expect the thread to blow up like this, but good times.
 
I haven't used the Cardone water pump on the P5, but have used them on other cars and I just put on Cardone calipers. They looked like well remanufactured pieces and are performing well.
 
GNO said:
I haven't used the Cardone water pump on the P5, but have used them on other cars and I just put on Cardone calipers. They looked like well remanufactured pieces and are performing well.

Thanks; I'd be getting new with lifetime warranty
 
GNO said:
I haven't used the Cardone water pump on the P5, but have used them on other cars and I just put on Cardone calipers. They looked like well remanufactured pieces and are performing well.

Cardone calipers rust really fast. I found out about two weeks after I installed mine. Sometime this summer I an taking them off and cleaning and painting them.
 
Diehonda said:
Cardone calipers rust really fast. I found out about two weeks after I installed mine. Sometime this summer I an taking them off and cleaning and painting them.
LOL, I guess I wouldn't know. I painted them before I installed them. The piston on my stock caliper was rusted really bad.
 

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