dficken said:If I see another engine blow, I'm going for the WRX.
I think I talked my wife into trading in her car, then I would give her the p5 and I would buy a WRX wagon. But still trying to talk her into that one since hers is paid off.
I would love to slap a turbo on my auto, but I don't feel like dicking with my car every other day. I just want something dependable that doesn't need tinkering with.
I guess we will see how Micah's car turns out and that will help me decide.
In the meantime, I need to sign up for subaru's vip program to get a car at invoice. I will wait 6 months (need to wait that long when you sign up before purchasing the car) and I will execute my decision. One way or the other I will have a turbo![]()
eeterp said:
I BELIEVE the FS-ZE uses stiffer valve springs because it has a higher redline than the similar 2.0 FS-DE in the US. The protege touring cars rev to 8500+rpm. You may want to call Tripoint engineering or sunbelt performance. In general, if you aren't going to raise your redline, you don't need valve springs. With your setup, I can see that you would benefit from a higher redline, though.
Perf,
Are you using the stock head gasket on your stage 1,2, and 3 turbo kits? Do you have the ability to make a larger throttle body or a nice/large intake plenum?
I can agree with this post entirely, But for what these guys plan on running on the street the stock springs are fine. I had the engine completely apart and tested many components. Found the spring rate to be just fine. When we go above 18PSI will will probably upgrade or shim them.iON Performance said:eeterp - valvesprings are a good idea not just for higher revs. If you're running boost, it's a good idea to have valve springs which have a high enough rate to shut the valves afterwards.
You have a right to be concerned but this would not happen if there was proper engine management. The system needs to be tuned the individual car and situation , NOT just with a mechanical FMU that is not very reliable all the time. We expect great success with micahs vehicledficken said:If I see another engine blow, I'm going for the WRX.
I think I talked my wife into trading in her car, then I would give her the p5 and I would buy a WRX wagon. But still trying to talk her into that one since hers is paid off.
I would love to slap a turbo on my auto, but I don't feel like dicking with my car every other day. I just want something dependable that doesn't need tinkering with.
I guess we will see how Micah's car turns out and that will help me decide.
In the meantime, I need to sign up for subaru's vip program to get a car at invoice. I will wait 6 months (need to wait that long when you sign up before purchasing the car) and I will execute my decision. One way or the other I will have a turbo![]()
We have worked on plenty of WRX's. If you see what the stock internals look like in these cars you would be surprised they handle boost. The stock FS motor is a very good motor for boost. Just needs some management . With rods the FS motor is a very good machine for high boost levels. It still utilizes an iron block compared to the subaru aluminum casing. But anyway the WRX's are TUNED for boost. There is a differenceSedanMan said:
Ummm... if you don't want to tinker then I think you should sell your Protege and buy a WRX. That car is MADE for a turbo. You get a warranty and everything is setup at the factory.
When the time comes for you in St Louis i can come up with someone for you. As far as our install rates , you can PM me and we can make arrangements.dficken said:Sounds good perfworks.
I'm anxious to see how micah's car performs.
I have mentioned before that I love my p5 and would love to turbo it. I just need the reliablity of a daily driver. I am not out to blow away wrx's. I just wouldn't mind hanging with a stock one.
I just want to have reliablity in a kit where i don't HAVE to pop the hood every day to mess with the car.
So I look forward to the results. Is Micah's car almost done?
Also, do you know any reputable install shops in the St. Louis Area? And... how much would YOU charge for the install?
Thanks,
Dale.
perfworks said:
We are in the process of finishing up a design for a larger manifold and throttle body. One will be tuned for N/A operation and one for F/I.
My turbo came in yesterday (woo!) . Manifold and Intercooler should be here today. Fitment will be done over the weekend, I'll be using my Sony DCRIP55 to take all the photos and videos needed for the installation video. Dyno tuning will be next week. Just in time for Spools (hooray for free food)BBQ.dficken said:So is Micah's car done now?
Unit will be sold pre-programmed with certain values, but after nick speaks with the customer, he will then tune it to their car, depending on mods, and driving characteristics.dficken said:
Also, can you sell the piggyback unit pre-programmed? Or do you have to tune it to each car 1st?
Thanks,
Dale.
Nick, I suggest you put your latest stats and prices at the first post on the page, with "UPDATE" and the date.perfworks said:Hello all,
i would like to take this time to revise the structure of the kits. I will include the specifics on whats included in the kits and revise some of the pricing for those who are interested.
We have done alot of testing for the protege this past few weeks and decided to upgrade some items. Also we have come across some savings on a few items so we are going to pass it along to the customers.
Stage I $3700 + shipping
Standard T3 turbocharger W/ internal wastegate.
2.5 inch downpipe with a coupling to directly fit on the stock second cat. (This can be arranged to fit any size the customer requires)
2 - O2 bungs allready welded in for the use of the stock O2 sensors or the primary O2 and a wideband. The second O2 will need then to be extended for use after your stock second cat.
Cast iron manifold W/ the egr operation left in place.
Intake piping for your stock MAF meter and new Filter we provide with the setup.
300HP potential bar and plate design FMIC. ( this was specifically designed for the protege. It will fit any 2001 model and up.)
Silicone couplings for all intercooler piping and SS t- bolt clamps for all hoses.
Mandrel bent steel tubing for intercooler intake and outlet . ( there is no need for any cutting of the frame for the install. Everything was jigged to fit along the space provided from the factory.)
The couplings will come in three colors. Red, Black and Mica blue.
The intercooler tubing can also vary in color also. This will be again at the customers discretion when they order.
Piggyback ECU that will control fuel and ignition. (Again this will vary with the customer. They will come preprogrammed for the particular application) The unit for stage one will NOT EXCEED 8psi. The stock fuel system will not be able to support more than that level.
Bosch recirculating valve and all vaccum lines , hoses and fittings needed for the install.
SS braided oil feed line and silicone return line with the proper fitting for the oil pan.
Other details can be had thru contacting me directly.
Stage II $4800+ shipping.
Will consist of (customer choice) a T3 with super 60 compressor housing or T3T4 hybrid turbo chargers.
Cast manifold design w/ egr operation intact.
All of the stage one accessories except the following:
Larger 255lph intank fuel pump.
Extra injector setup on the piping before the throttle body.
Larger 80mm MAF meter
Larger 600HP potential FMIC with upgraded diameter piping
Piggyback computer tuned to the specific PSI level requested by the customer.
Again no two systems will be identical because everyones mods and future mods will vary. The kits are made to order. They are not mass produced so any ordering will determine your own HP potential .
Stage III
This kit will include a fully assembled forged internal engine and driveline. This will only be discussed with me on the phone or thru personal contact at the shop.
If there are any comments or questions please feel free to post or email them to me.
Thanks again for your time![]()
Note that even with stock internals that this kit can be used to run up to 15 psi of boost
Darin said:I know this is an old thread...but...
I think somebody would be nuts to run 15psi on a stock FS...
I've seen guys bend rods at HALF that level. I'm not sure how anyone could reccomend those levels of boost. Even Flyin Miata can't attest to running 15psi on a B6 - which is a stronger motor.
Thoughts?