Turbo Back Exhaust Packages - $950

4. whitey4311

I still want to know about CEL's and warranty BS if any. My thoughts on exhaust are that its post engine/turbo so I dont know what it could possibly void. COuld adding more HP screw with the engine? Its not like we are adding boost so I figure it to be safe.
 
Also with a FWD handling on dry surface is pretty much even with a AWD.

r u kidding me....theres no way fwd can put down all those hp to the road as good as the awd....dry or wet surface....sti/evo is 2-3 sec faster all season in my SFR autox....its almost impossible to catch them....[/QUOTE]

Just had this argument with my Evo friend and yes they do handle better and get better 0-60 but for the difference vs cost if you arent on a track often its a poor choice to me. I like the power that they claim but after us screwing around with rolling and dig races his Evo wasnt looking so bad ass and all I have is a CAI.
 
I don't think HP gains are additive with multiple parts. In fact, we probably won't see anything significantly above 300 without replacing the stock turbocharger. There's only so much induction it can handle.

you are correct, horsepower gains are cumulative, not 1+1+1 et al

Well you know my credit card is ready soon as these folks in here decide they want 40-50 horses for 800usd which i think is a steel.
Captain im a little bit confused though are you sure no additional ECU tuning will be needed,also
2.) If the Corksport 3inch Exhaust does not remove the second cat and cats restrict power how can system #1 give more power than system No 2 then?

Basically with system one,with no tuning what soever can i have 315hp at the crank then?

why would there need to be any "ecu tuning" for an exhaust system to work? i am curious what is leading you to that conclusions, thats all.

the corksport catback alone will not remove a cat. thats what the test pipe and down pipe do as part of that package. the package with the vibrant system has a high flow cat built into it though.
 
A cars ability to track faster is not related to it being 4wd at all,yes it helps but many rear wheel and fwd cars are faster around the dry track.Examples are in the link below.Top gear yet have not tested the MPS around the track but when they do we will see what the 260hp can do and assuming we have 300hp+ we can add a second or more:-)

http://www.topgear.com/content/tgonbbc2/laptimes/thestig/

Come on we got 5 people already.
 
Last edited:
Christ, stop tempting me with the exhaust packages! Aaaaaah, hehe. I'm tryin to hold out for ECU management! *sigh*
 
Captain just a question if we just swop the stock turbo with a garret GT30 GT3071R will that help or will we need minor tuning.What i mean can you just dial a higher boost and let the stock ECU do the rest.
 
^^^^^^^
no way jose.

to gain the hp from a turbo swap, all the ECU tables need to be reset (timing, fueling, trim) and typically it requires bigger injectors (and that means new feed rates or pulse curves) and most likely a fuel pump.

and since its Direct Injection.....who knows about all that stuff? where do you get a higher flowing, high-pressure (mechanical) fuel pump?

I realize that APS offers "bolt-on" GT30 turbo kits, but who's actually done it? and what about the larger intake that APS says is required? that means a bigger MAF sensor tube - in other words - different AFR tables in the ECU.

no way you can bolt on a bigger turbo and rely on ECU learning to do the trick. sure the car may actually run, but you will be leaving 75% of the gains on the table.
 
we've put the GT3071R from ATP on the engine and at 15psi it makes as much power as the stock turbo does running 18psi. this was with an XEDE on the car as well for both turbos. the larger turbo can be run with just the stock computer and for the most part your air/fuel ratios will be within safe parameters. in short, do you 'need' to retune the fuel and timing curves to safely operate the GT3071R on this engine? no you do not.

therein lies a caveat however; why are you paying a grand plus for a new turbo to run basically the same powerband? to get the most out of the larger turbo you will need to crank up the boost from where ATP has it set at, which is 15psi. you won't be able to push much more than that on the stock ECU and still be within a safe range. the turbo itself is rated to 22 psi efficiently. i'd be hesitant to push it that hard without doing some tuning.

you do not need the bigger intake tube to use the larger turbo. the intake tube they say you need is the midsection that goes between the intake and the turbo - the stock plastic misshapen midsection everyone is attaching thier cold air intakes to. they offer that because the inlet on the GT3071R is 4 inches in diameter. its also a good way to get $300 more out of you :) you can easily adapt the factory intake tunnel and cold air intake to the larger inlet with a silicone reducer. no CELs from larger MAF tunnels or any of that nonsense.
 
still no reply to these questions:

Will the vibrant system pass smog since it has a cat? For me I would consider both systems if the PG test pipe with cork sport system is the best choice I could always bolt up the stock DP for smog right?

Any warranty BS risks?

Guranteed no Cel's?
 
still no reply to these questions:

Will the vibrant system pass smog since it has a cat? For me I would consider both systems if the PG test pipe with cork sport system is the best choice I could always bolt up the stock DP for smog right?

Any warranty BS risks?

Guranteed no Cel's?

1) where are you located? neither of these systems will pass a visual inspection. with the check engine light off they will pass all plug in OBD inspections. the vibrant setup will probably pass a sniffer test. the setup with the corksport and test pipe will not pass a sniffer test. "passing smog" is an opened ended term that is going to vary based on your state and local test methods.

2) you are not going to blow your engine from a turbo back exhaust alone on this car. i highly doubt if your radio goes bad that you are going to have a dealer refuse to repair on the basis that your exhaust system is aftermarket etc etc etc. exhaust can easily be swapped back if the need arises (ie - your engine starts making odd sounds or some such and the dealer needs to check it out). i've said it before and i cannot stress this simple fact enough;

i've worked for mazda. i've worked in the dealer service, sales and parts environments. if you give the dealer or a rep a reason to void your warranty they will find a way to do it. if you walk in and treat your service writer like a human being they will more than likely take care of you. if you walk in like they owe you something and get hostile they'll call Mazda USA and tell them you modded your car six ways until sunday and have techline flag your car so fast you won't know where the time went.

generally speaking, basic bolt on things like intake, exhaust, springs, etc are not going to get your warranty heckled. now if you can't take the ten minutes to swap back your stock intercooler before a dealer visit or five minutes to swap back your stock bypass valve before a dealer visit or you leave a boost controller on the car in plain sight then you might as well wear a sign that says "please void me" in bright red letters. thats my unabridged, unsimplified, unshortened opinion on the matter of mods and warranty work.

3) no check engine lights.
 
I would like the DP, TP, CB package with no cats. Can you pm me with the avalibility, how long I have to wait to get the 5% more off, and shipping price is to 07628. How much additional would it be for shifter bushings and a motor mount on there too. I would like the PG mount instead of the AWR's that seem to tear. If that is possible?
 
Last edited:
Thanks so much Ken for the reply it helped me sort out the BS going on in my head.

I live in California so I guess since you said package 1 is a better choice but wont pass smog I will just have to keep the stock set up to change it out when that time comes.

Couldnt I just change out the DP and test pipe for smog and leave the CBE inplace for it to pass?

Has anyone done the install on this stuff, how easy is it to do? Mainly I wonder how to get the stock system out of the car since I have seen threads where people had to cut it out. I obviously need for this system to be unbolt and bolt on to change out for smog or warranty BS so I would hate to cut at it.
 
PS called me dealer right now and he said use common sense for warranty issues and that he doesnt see how an exhaust could void anything other then the part itself. In other words if I punched out a CAT and the CAT failed its on me.

He did say for the TMIC that it would be grey area and up for question depending on what went wrong. So for ease of avoiding all the BS i think the Turbo back system would be my best option so I can cont to go to the dealer for my routine services.

He did mention it wont be smog legal but as I said I could possibly just bolt up the stock DP and be ok. Also I have a friend that owns a shop so I dont know how easy it would be to fudge the test if it came down to it.
 
So whats up we need total of 10 but what is the price going to be? Seems like someone forced $800 on Ken but he hasnt approved a price yet. We have to be fair and he has been so much help I wont take advantage of him but $800 sounds beautiful to me.
 
800 i really dont think i can hit. if we can get 10 buyers i'll do 900 shipped. thats the rock bottom price.
 
tempting...

Captain, there was talk (on the 'other' website) about cars smoking after some exhaust installs, is that still an issue? I'll get back on there and do some reading but thought I'd ask you also
 
thats a great price. sure wish i had $900 lying around. guess i'll just order the test pipe for now!
 
Back