TRZ Rear Mount, Shifter Bushings, Still Grinding Gears

  • Thread starter Thread starter cymx5
  • Start date Start date
seriously dude dont let the clutch out before you are ENTIRELY in the gear. if someone like me whos only been driving since September doesn't miss and grind ears then you shouldn't be driving a stick.
You are not talking to me are you?
 
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I was just joking, too! But hoping for a little fun i guess. I feel that no matter how long i have been doing anything i still can learn something new from anyone. I am really going to try the " disengage the clutch fully before shifting method" well maybe once anyways.ha thanks. I did practice my flat shifting 1-2 today but all i got was wheel spin even trying to keep my right foot out of it. So 1-2 is good 3-4 4-5 also. this 2-3 is killing me. i will never run high 12s till this is fixed.
 
I would offer some advice, but I never had ANY issues shifting my ms3. Not on the street, at the drags, or anywhere else.

(wiggle)

I had the factory shifter in there for about 10 months, then got the TWM shifter/bushings. Never had problems shifting with either setup.
 
I have had bad reverse grind for a few months now. I took it to the dealer, and they fiddled a bit, drained my redline mt-90 and put stock fluid back in with a friction modifier. It's a wee bit better, but unless I go into reverse slow, or into 2nd then reverse, it grinds. Reverse isn't synchroed, it's straight cut, but still..

After going back to stock and being persistent, I got a rebuilt clutch and clutch disc out of my local dealer. THey wouldn't open the transmission, but I took $2000 in warranty service and parts and ran.

For another big issue, **** my warranty, I'm laying out some fliff at a local mechanic who actually works on cars rather than reads the japanese manual and shoos the customer out the door ASAP. Dealer stole my base bushings too when rebuilding my shifter, thinking that was the problem. I have a twm SS daily anyway. Hard not to laugh at them. Sigh.
 
exactly

I know the MS3 isn't the easiest to shift because of the suspect OEM mounts but no one that knows how to drive a manual should have this much trouble.

Seriously, it's either the driver mod or there's something wrong with your synchros. Throwing more aftermarket parts at it isn't going to solve it.

exactly, theres no way you should be grinding gears like that, switching the shifter isn't going to change a thing, theres a reason why the car is grinding, unless you really don't know how to drive a manual car
 
1. try babying your clutch a bit while making absolutely sure your foot is flooring the clutch, especially when going to third
2. try avoiding "straight" shifts and do "s-pattern" shifts.
3. above all, CHANGE YOUR TRANNY FLUID ASAP.QUOTE]

I used steps one and three. I've always had an upright posture, but did find one click of the seat closer to the steering wheel gave me a better base for putting pressure on the clutch pedal without smashing my knees.

The transmission fluid was finally changed yesterday to Redline MT90. The factory fluid at 37k miles was crystal clear with no visible metal coming out along with it, but it's lubricating base was likely far gone.

Shifts are much much much smoother. Not nearly as noisy or ratchety as before. I'm very happy, and conclude this CASE CLOSED!
 
I should add that between 1-2 and 2-3 I haven't heard the slightest grind or even whine of a synchro during a shift. The old fluid in its old age must have been providing very little lubrication for the synchros.
 
Trans and rear end lubes rarely get "dirty" because there's no combustion by-products in them, as in engine oil. They do break down though, like any other lube, as you discovered.

Look around, there's some hater comments about MT-90 in another similar thread, re. noise after changing to MT-90. Lots of positive reviews too, though. I have it in my car, with a small dose of friction modifier to drown out the diff whine. It shifts as good as this car is capable of, road, dragstrip and country road attack, I don't miss shifts.

Oh, one correction on the "don't get dirty" statement: Once I punched a hole in the diff case of my G10 Chevy off road and drove the truck out of the bush and back home, nearly 500 miles, with no diff oil save what stuck to the bits inside. It held til about 50 miles and then started howling like a banshee. We still got back but the crown and pinion were wasted and the remaining 1/4 cup of oil was black. (lol2)
 
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