DailyDriver
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Trigger pulled
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Stavesacre21
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- 2010 Mazdaspeed3
Congrats on your purchase. Got yourself the BEST of color there!
Looks like we're akin through both Mazda AND Chevy
Looks like we're akin through both Mazda AND Chevy
DailyDriver
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When I did a 200-mile radius inventory search on Mazda's site a while back, it returned a ton of black and silver, and only a handful of red and blue MS3s.
Congrats on the purchase, Daily. Looking forward to seeing pics--LS is my second favorite color on the MS3.
Congrats on the purchase, Daily. Looking forward to seeing pics--LS is my second favorite color on the MS3.
mbanshchikov
Member
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- 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Sport
(cool) Definitely the best color out there. Post pics soon!
mazdaspeedster3
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3. 2008
Yes, silver rules and is obviously faster in all applications of the speed3. Black is big because it hides those hood lines I think. Some people dont like the new look as well, pretty drastic change. It is growing on me. Cant wait to see some great pics of your new car!
DailyDriver
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I have owned a few silver cars as well. Though I haven't had one since I sold my M3 back in '06. I like silver, but I find it can be a bit boring, especially the shades of silver many cars have. The MS3 on the other hand...that liquid silver is beautiful! Once I saw it in person I had to have it.
my last silver car:
my last silver car:
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
welcome to the family
DailyDriver
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Stavesacre21
Member
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- 2010 Mazdaspeed3
There is no temperature gauge. Has to be the first car that i've ever even heard of that didn't have some sort of temp reading somewhere. According to the manual, there's a high-temp light that comes on it if becomes a problem. I always used it so that I knew when the motor was warmed up so I knew when I could get...spirited.
I don't remember if it was a car magazine or where, but I believe that the MS3 came with Mobil 1 from the factory. I used Mobil 1 5w-30 on both the vette and the MS3. Whatever type of oil you use (synthetic vs dino) stick with it and just don't switch back and forth. Just yesterday I changed out my oil with Mobil 1 and the 1000 mark. I am still using a Mazda oil filter but that'll probably change down the line. I couldn't imagine any dealership giving you warranty problems because you used the best motor oil vs. standard. I'm pretty sure that they're gonna use motorcraft oil if you take it to the dealer...might as well buy autozone or advance auto brand oil.
After 1000 miles, i've already noticed the seat bolsters to be a little more forgiving. I wouldn't pay any money to have them loosened up. They will conform in time, maybe not immediately, but they will. Besides, right now it sure does hug you in the twisties.
I've lifted the car 4 times (twice on the right front and twice on the left) with a standard floor jack. I centered it right on the spot mentioned in the manual between the 2 bolts (it's reinforced and hard to miss). I had no problems with it and would see no reason to use anywhere else. I already had to compress my jack all the way down to even get it under the ground effects, so i'd think almost anywhere else under the car would be too far to reach with a standard floor jack.
Have you heard the infamous light thunking when changed gears in the bottom 3 to 4 gears yet? Everyone is all panic'd about it, but I'm pretty sure it's normal.
I don't remember if it was a car magazine or where, but I believe that the MS3 came with Mobil 1 from the factory. I used Mobil 1 5w-30 on both the vette and the MS3. Whatever type of oil you use (synthetic vs dino) stick with it and just don't switch back and forth. Just yesterday I changed out my oil with Mobil 1 and the 1000 mark. I am still using a Mazda oil filter but that'll probably change down the line. I couldn't imagine any dealership giving you warranty problems because you used the best motor oil vs. standard. I'm pretty sure that they're gonna use motorcraft oil if you take it to the dealer...might as well buy autozone or advance auto brand oil.
After 1000 miles, i've already noticed the seat bolsters to be a little more forgiving. I wouldn't pay any money to have them loosened up. They will conform in time, maybe not immediately, but they will. Besides, right now it sure does hug you in the twisties.
I've lifted the car 4 times (twice on the right front and twice on the left) with a standard floor jack. I centered it right on the spot mentioned in the manual between the 2 bolts (it's reinforced and hard to miss). I had no problems with it and would see no reason to use anywhere else. I already had to compress my jack all the way down to even get it under the ground effects, so i'd think almost anywhere else under the car would be too far to reach with a standard floor jack.
Have you heard the infamous light thunking when changed gears in the bottom 3 to 4 gears yet? Everyone is all panic'd about it, but I'm pretty sure it's normal.
DailyDriver
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DailyDriver
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mazdaspeedster3
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3. 2008
It is an economy car first, then a performance vehicle. They will make noises and clunks, only more to come with time sadly.
The speeds do not come with syn oil from the factory. Everyone usually switches to syn at the first oil change though. Penzoil Platinum or Mobil1 more than qualifys and you will not have any issues at the dealership with either of those oils.
The speeds do not come with syn oil from the factory. Everyone usually switches to syn at the first oil change though. Penzoil Platinum or Mobil1 more than qualifys and you will not have any issues at the dealership with either of those oils.
DailyDriver
Member
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Stavesacre21
Member
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- 2010 Mazdaspeed3
As i mentioned, I changed to Mobil 1 @ 1000 miles, and I plan to do another in 2,000 more miles, which will set me up nicely for every 3,000 from here on out. I'm thinking that whatever will be affected by break-in and setting-in will be mostly finished by 1,000 miles. Considering how the manual even states that break-in should only last 600 miles IF you chose to do it, i'd like to think that they know what they're talking about.
As for the thunking I mentioned, you shouldn't have to focus too hard if it's doing it. With the radio off and the windows up, I noticed within the first 15 miles that were put on the car. It's only the shifting action that does it...you don't even have to engage the clutch. Once warmed up, coast along and run the 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 shift then in reverse 4, 3, 2, 1. If all else fails, shift between 2nd and 3rd back and forth and you'll hear what i'm talking about.
If yours does do it and you didn't hear it before, i'm sorry to have brought it to your attention. Cause I gaurantee you'll hear it every single time now.
As for the thunking I mentioned, you shouldn't have to focus too hard if it's doing it. With the radio off and the windows up, I noticed within the first 15 miles that were put on the car. It's only the shifting action that does it...you don't even have to engage the clutch. Once warmed up, coast along and run the 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 shift then in reverse 4, 3, 2, 1. If all else fails, shift between 2nd and 3rd back and forth and you'll hear what i'm talking about.
If yours does do it and you didn't hear it before, i'm sorry to have brought it to your attention. Cause I gaurantee you'll hear it every single time now.
mazdasongs
Member
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- 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Sport
My sales guy said you can get one from the dealer for like 10 bucks or you can probably get it cut at any key place which reminds me I was going to get that done as well.
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