I'm toying with putting a trailer hitch on my MSP to be used for a bike rack. I don't want to put a rack on top of the car or off the trunk (i'm sure the spoiler would make this impossible anyway), and was wondering if anyone else has done, or was thinking of doing, the same thing.
Trailer Hitch?
- Thread starter Swope
- Start date
I've got a yakima rack on my mp3; doesn't hurt a thing as long as you put it on right. If you look very very closely, there are little bumps on the door frame looking from outside...that's where the feet go 
I thought about the same thing, and its just too tough to do.
I thought about the same thing, and its just too tough to do.
Swope: I have installed a Reese 79154 on my Mazdaspeed Protege and it fits. It is very tight up under the rear skirt, so there is one drawback. You have to drill out about a 1 inch hole in the bottom lip so you have room to put in the hitch pin which holds the flat drawbar. The flat drawbar may be a problem if your bike rack expects a 1.25 inch square receiver. If so, there are other hitches available, but I don't have any experience with them.
Go to www.hitch-web.com and put in the 2003 Mazda Protege then Mazdaspeed model and it will bring up 3 hitches.
Happy biking!
Go to www.hitch-web.com and put in the 2003 Mazda Protege then Mazdaspeed model and it will bring up 3 hitches.
Happy biking!
I just ordered (but have not yet received) a Hidden Hitch made for the Protege/MSP - they're available online or catalog order from (believe it or not) JC Whitney for only $89.99, and if you get the catalog there's a 10-15% coupon as well. Delivery is about $18. www.jcwhitney.com , search under towing. Other e-tailers ( www.hitch-web.com) and retail hitch stores sell the same hitch for over $135. I called JCW and checked the Hidden hitch stock number, and it is their 1 1/4" receiver hitch. I haven't received it yet, though, so can't comment on fit/finish/etc., but will post when I get it. www.hitch-web.com also has the HH installation instructions right on their website. Looks like I may have to get at the lower bumper valence to clear the receiver; that's no problem for me but others may have an issue with it - again, I'll post when installed.
I'll be using it for a bike rack as well. I do have a very small utility trailer that sees light camping duty with our MPV GTI (es) and may see how that tows, but the utility vehicle for us is the MPV - it's sort of like driving a Miata... a really BIG Miata... from a barstool mounted on the hood...
I've also test-fitted my Barrecrafters roof rack (Thule rails, Barrecrafters feet, and Performance bike mounts) to the MSP; it fits OK but I don't like the pads-on-the-roof thing if I can avoid it. I do, however, like the raked look of the fork-mounted race bike(s) on the roof (OK, so I'm sometimes a showoff...)
mo later...
I'll be using it for a bike rack as well. I do have a very small utility trailer that sees light camping duty with our MPV GTI (es) and may see how that tows, but the utility vehicle for us is the MPV - it's sort of like driving a Miata... a really BIG Miata... from a barstool mounted on the hood...
I've also test-fitted my Barrecrafters roof rack (Thule rails, Barrecrafters feet, and Performance bike mounts) to the MSP; it fits OK but I don't like the pads-on-the-roof thing if I can avoid it. I do, however, like the raked look of the fork-mounted race bike(s) on the roof (OK, so I'm sometimes a showoff...)
mo later...
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OK - got the hitch, didn't even take a week to deliver, and that was with the CHEAP shipping option!! UN-fortunately, I rode the 'cross bike home today, so the MSP is at the office...
Pics and install to follow. Hitch is a 1 1/4" rectangular, Hidden Hitch model number 60927, and it included the drawbar (looks like a nice rise on that one), the hitch pin, 4 bolts/washers/nuts, and hardware for anything that needs reinstallation once put on. Looks like a decent piece. And hey, the drawbar itself from PepBoys costs like $20, or $30 from WalMart.
Pics and install to follow. Hitch is a 1 1/4" rectangular, Hidden Hitch model number 60927, and it included the drawbar (looks like a nice rise on that one), the hitch pin, 4 bolts/washers/nuts, and hardware for anything that needs reinstallation once put on. Looks like a decent piece. And hey, the drawbar itself from PepBoys costs like $20, or $30 from WalMart.
OK, test-fit it last night. Looks like the lower valence may need some clearancing, and there may be some interference from the diagonal brace going from the muffler to the tailpipe/tip. The fuel pressure accumulator needs re-mounting (Hidden hitch thoughtfully included instructions and longer bolts). Seems pretty straightforward, esp. for mounting a standard Protege hitch to a "modified" MSP. I'll be having at it this weekend, will take pics, and give feedback...
03MzdSpdSTP
Banned
That is y i mountain board..no rack just fits in the trunk
OK, took pics, wasn't too difficult. I'll start a new thread with the description. The valence didn't need cutting at all and the hitch cover is very subtle - it's only about 1/4" below the lower valence, enough to clear any safety chains and tight enough to the valence to look good. The only interference on the MSP was from the diagonal brace on the RacingBeat muffler/tailpipe (I just cut the brace off - no problem!) Very straightforward install, carefully cutting that doggone stainless steel diagonal brace was the hardest part (took 7 Dremel cutting discs, MAN those discs are brittle!), and aligning the accumulator bracket took a little massaging (bending the bracket slightly with a monkey wrench did the trick), but overall not bad. If you can change oil you're easily qualified to do this. The HH product itself was high quality and bolted right up. That's about it! I'll upload pics when I can...
I tried to upload the instructions from Hidden Hitch, but msprotege.com won't allow .pdf uploads. They can be downloaded from www.hitch-web.com , do a search for a 2003 / Mazda / protege. These instructions are great, but there are a few more things to be aware of, esp. with the MSP:
1) The diagonal brace on the back of the Racing Beat muffler has to be cut off or it WILL hit the hitch when the exhaust warms up and lengthens. A dremel works well but use the stock (thin, brittle) cutting discs because this stainless EATS the fiber ones. Ue eye protection. Note that you WILL get dirty. Cut the diagonal bracket BEFORE installing the hitch, you can't get at it well once the hitch is in place (I got to install my hitch TWICE, so I know!). Detaching the rearmost muffler mount helps immensely in doing this, and silicone spray really helps in detaching/reattaching this mount. Mine's been cut for about 400 miles and the tailpipe hasn't drooped or anything, but time will tell - and there's a nice piece of bodywork available right above the tailpipe if another mount needs to be attached/fabbed up later.
2) The bracket for the accumulator will have to be bent a little to clear the bracket on the driver's side of the car. A vise grip and a monkey wrench work well. You'll see what needs to be done when you install.
3) You'll need an 11/16" socket, preferably deep well. You can use a cheap Chinese-built 11/16" like I did, but it's a PITA. The mounting bolt toward the back of the car on the exhaust/passenger side may need to be accessed by open-end wrench.
4) The Hidden Hitch fits very well, I'lll post some "underneath" shots later (my work computer doesn't have those shots on it).
5) The Hidden Hitch is a class 1, meaning there's a tab inside to prevent putting the longer 1 1/4" class 2 drawbars in there. Unfortunately for me, my bike rack was the extended class 2 bar, so I had to dremel this tab out by cutting from underneath and banging it out. Did so, Rustoleum'ed the cut area, and it works GREAT.
6) It's really easy to do this on a lift or on ramps, and our ground clearance is good enough that stock steel ramps were easy to get the car onto.
As always when working under a car and with cutting equipment, PLEASE use proper precautions, wear eye protection (you only get ONE set of eyes), and secure the car by putting the ebrake on, putting the car in gear, and chocking the wheels. There's a lot of grit that gets caught in the bumper/rear valence and it'll fall all over you - be prepared.
Enjoy!
1) The diagonal brace on the back of the Racing Beat muffler has to be cut off or it WILL hit the hitch when the exhaust warms up and lengthens. A dremel works well but use the stock (thin, brittle) cutting discs because this stainless EATS the fiber ones. Ue eye protection. Note that you WILL get dirty. Cut the diagonal bracket BEFORE installing the hitch, you can't get at it well once the hitch is in place (I got to install my hitch TWICE, so I know!). Detaching the rearmost muffler mount helps immensely in doing this, and silicone spray really helps in detaching/reattaching this mount. Mine's been cut for about 400 miles and the tailpipe hasn't drooped or anything, but time will tell - and there's a nice piece of bodywork available right above the tailpipe if another mount needs to be attached/fabbed up later.
2) The bracket for the accumulator will have to be bent a little to clear the bracket on the driver's side of the car. A vise grip and a monkey wrench work well. You'll see what needs to be done when you install.
3) You'll need an 11/16" socket, preferably deep well. You can use a cheap Chinese-built 11/16" like I did, but it's a PITA. The mounting bolt toward the back of the car on the exhaust/passenger side may need to be accessed by open-end wrench.
4) The Hidden Hitch fits very well, I'lll post some "underneath" shots later (my work computer doesn't have those shots on it).
5) The Hidden Hitch is a class 1, meaning there's a tab inside to prevent putting the longer 1 1/4" class 2 drawbars in there. Unfortunately for me, my bike rack was the extended class 2 bar, so I had to dremel this tab out by cutting from underneath and banging it out. Did so, Rustoleum'ed the cut area, and it works GREAT.
6) It's really easy to do this on a lift or on ramps, and our ground clearance is good enough that stock steel ramps were easy to get the car onto.
As always when working under a car and with cutting equipment, PLEASE use proper precautions, wear eye protection (you only get ONE set of eyes), and secure the car by putting the ebrake on, putting the car in gear, and chocking the wheels. There's a lot of grit that gets caught in the bumper/rear valence and it'll fall all over you - be prepared.
Enjoy!
