Traction bars

how so? they arent connected to anything steering related and if they are mounted correctly (ie in the same axis as the pivot point of the suspension arm) they should move up and down properly. i know the steering circle may be reduced if the bars are too long but if they are back far enough they shouldnt hit the wheel. well, that's the theory
 
Using them for AutoX would move you to a very high class that the Protege would never be competitive in which is why it wouldn't really help there.

I made polyurethane bushings for the front pivot on the lower control arm. They tightened things up a little. You can't make them for the back since the plane the arm pivots through is perpendicular to the way the rear bolt goes in. It's a pretty weird arrangement.
 
Yep, they shouldn't cause any difference (As far as I saw), but this one seemed like it was suffering. =) I can get some details for ya.
 
update..

i've taken measurements to build up a traction bar setup. will be designing it over the next few days and as soon as i buy a new mig welder i'll make it up.

the setup will require a small amount of body modification to fit, but nothing structural or anything you'll ever see. just cutting little of the thin sheet metal near the front tow hooks to fit in the cross member
 
In response to the guy talking about the flex during jacking up the car...

That front subframe piece IS a weak component. AWR makes a replacement that is QUITE beefy, Ive held it in my hands. MPNick put that piece on Deans MSP and that just raved about it. Said it made an enormous difference in wheelhop at the track.

See Front Subframe Reinforcement : http://www.awrracing.com/pages/pro/prosusp.html
 
I had mentioned earlier about the front subframe flex...I'll be keeping an eye on your progress twilight. I think the traction bars will help, but so too will that new AWR peice. Of course, the description from their website states that it is a reinforced OE part. It would be possible for a person with the tools, skill and inclination to perform that modification himself...I wish I knew how to weld.

Best of luck
 
Anybody see these? Don't know how they work but the look awefully cool and they are guarateed not to bind because the link pivot is directly in-line with the CA pivot.

http://www.cyborgzero.com/image/tractionbars/tractionbars2.jpg

Not to mention that they are a HELL of a lot simpler to design. Fairly elegant imho im kicking myself that I didn't think of it.

Looks like there is plenty of wheel clearance even in a hard turn too.. My old traction bars (that I took off btw) would always rub when I was trying to park my car.

Anyway, the design is freaking pure genius, although I would have definitely went with beefier lateral members and maybe at least one crossbar between them.
 
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Well, I for one frequently kill control arm bushings and I know there is a LOT of control arm deflection during launch..

Control arm deflection is what basically causes wheelhop and gets the whole system shaking and shuddering and eventually the engine tries to jump out of the bay and/or tears up the motor mounts.
 
ion, yeah that's a similar design to what i'm going to make, however, even with the testing i've done there is definately no rub issues.
 
I'm trying this....here's a pic of somthing similar to how i'm designing mine, these are on a nissan sentra.
tractionbars.jpg


Mine is incorporating solid 3/4in steel rods that i'm getting drilled and tapped by a machinist, one side right hand thread, the other left hand thread. He used 1in tubular steel that he welded a nut on to each side. Also, i'm going to have my front support bracket connect the entire assembly together, connecting where the tow hook is attached to the frame on each side of the radiator support. This will stiffen the frame and chasis, as well as provide extra rigidity and strenth to the overall system.

Its gonna be beefy as hell, and all of the parts i'm using can be picked up at Lowe's(for the steel pieces) Ace Hardware(for the nuts bolts and spacers) and Grainger Industrial Supply(for the ball joint rod ends.)

All in all its prolly gonna cost me about $70 because for one i'm getting the rods machined, which isn't as cost effective as some other alternatives, but regardless, it will be much stronger than anything else. I'll have it done before friday, which is when i'm going to the track. I'll post some pics when i get it all fabbed up, and prolly post some times from the track.
 
boostdprotegelx said:
if you come up with something good, let us know..maybe you can fab stuff for us..and we'll buy them.
heh, i work 4 days a week and go to school 2 of the other days....the only day i'm off is sunday....besides, i know the probe suspension is almost identical to mine, i don't know how the protege lower control arm looks in comparison. I would probably have to mach one up on an actual protege in order for me to get the correct dimensions of the frame and control arms....and like i said before, i don't have much time to work with.

But if anyone is in the Kentucky, Indiana, or Cincinatti area that would like to make they're way to Louisville, i'd be more than happy to help in the design process.

I probably could find a machine shop to replicate the design if we did make one for a protege, but the price would undoubtebly go up significantly, and i don't really wanna start a GB if i can't give it 100% of my attention. I might propose the design to protegarage, or speedcircuit, maybe they could start producing them, i just don't have the time though.
 

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