As far as spring position- yes.... theres a notch in the spring perch on the rear to, you should see the tip of the spring seated in the open slot on the very bottom. Some springs have a rubber cover on them to prevent noise on the top of the springs, you might want to check that to.
To Cut or Not to Cut??
- Thread starter pol3mic
- Start date
Are these the stock springs? Im not sure what else it could be if everything is lined up properly. If you were local I'd help you figure it out .
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Yeah, stock springs. I think I'm willing to deal with the clunk for a little bit, but the abs and traction lights are going to make me acually hate driving this car 
I might take it to a shop or something.
This blows nuts.
(mazda said that the lights "should" turn off with a couple drive cycles. This happened last time I unplugged the wire, but went off after about 30 seconds of driving. Hope it goes off after work tonight)
I might take it to a shop or something. This blows nuts.
(mazda said that the lights "should" turn off with a couple drive cycles. This happened last time I unplugged the wire, but went off after about 30 seconds of driving. Hope it goes off after work tonight)
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I hope you can get it figured out, It is annoying when this kind of thing happens...I ordered a set of Koni yellows the other day for mine, one front and the two rears made it here and the other front was still in Chicago yesterday(thanks fed-ex)lol!..I will be running them with my Eibach Pro-kit or a set of H&R's if I decide to change to them...anyways besides the noise how do you like them?? Its been several years since I had some koni yellows.Yeah, stock springs. I think I'm willing to deal with the clunk for a little bit, but the abs and traction lights are going to make me acually hate driving this car
This blows nuts.
(mazda said that the lights "should" turn off with a couple drive cycles. This happened last time I unplugged the wire, but went off after about 30 seconds of driving. Hope it goes off after work tonight)
Lights are still on...
I'm going to take the wheels off and try spraying some can'ed air to clear the female and male ends of the abs sensors to see if there is maybe debris in there or something.
About the clunking, I think I'm going to try to find out how hard it is to replace the front sway bar bushings. I think that's what I'm going to assume it is next.
Wish me luck!
I'm going to take the wheels off and try spraying some can'ed air to clear the female and male ends of the abs sensors to see if there is maybe debris in there or something.
About the clunking, I think I'm going to try to find out how hard it is to replace the front sway bar bushings. I think that's what I'm going to assume it is next.
Wish me luck!
Hey ohioan,
Make sure your sensor actually clicks into place. I had the ABS problem on mine as well - it turns out that when I was doing the 'jack trick' to get my strut out of the control arm, I must have been making contact with the abs connector. One side of it flared out a bit, and it caused the plug-in connector to not fully seat. I had to squeeze the housing with a needle-nose pliers to flatten it back out, then the connector went back in OK. It still took a few drive cycles for the light to go off.
Make sure your sensor actually clicks into place. I had the ABS problem on mine as well - it turns out that when I was doing the 'jack trick' to get my strut out of the control arm, I must have been making contact with the abs connector. One side of it flared out a bit, and it caused the plug-in connector to not fully seat. I had to squeeze the housing with a needle-nose pliers to flatten it back out, then the connector went back in OK. It still took a few drive cycles for the light to go off.
This was it. New sensor, $40. Problem solved. No more lights. 
Sway bar bushings, coming soon. I'll keep all updated.
Sway bar bushings, coming soon. I'll keep all updated.
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