To All Running 9-10 PSI

Dr.Sound said:
talking about plugs..........(lol)no wait! i still have stomach cramps from reading yashe's posts(lol)...........

anyway, yeah.........talking about plugs............where do u guys get yours installed. I mean do all of you do them yourself?
dont u need a special tool to tighten it a sertain way?

dealer is out of the question.........where would i take it?

thanks.

-Victor

I did mine yesterday, no special tool required other then a spark plug socket, even on the NGK box it says that all you do is hand tighten them till they seat and use a socket to tighten them one half turn more and that's it, took me about 30mis to do all four. I am now running a degree colder and feel a little better about having my boost upped and it being somewhat safe.
 
OutDriveYou: How did you hook up your Greddy ProfecB SpecII. I think that you already posted in my other thread about this, but could you be more specific? Thanks.
 
I don't know.... How did this ever come up?

I'm leaving my stock plugs installed. All is golden! I don't see the point in switching them. I'm not going to fix what ain't broken.

Unless; I hear a really good reason.....
 
Re: I don't know.... How did this ever come up?

AGR #11#26#27 said:
I'm leaving my stock plugs installed. All is golden! I don't see the point in switching them. I'm not going to fix what ain't broken.

Unless; I hear a really good reason.....

"Stock are # 6 and platinum- hotter plug plus platinum makes it even hotter- plus it tends to glow and cause pre-ignition (detonation) beause it will fire even without spark once it does glow.. Not a good choice for turbo cars... " -- Joe P.

"Colder plugs will help prevent detonation because they run cooler at the tip (transfer more heat to the head) and do not pre-ignite as easily. The stock Platinums are even worse since they are 1) a hotter plug and 2) platinum tends to get extremely hot at the tip and glow which will cause pre ignition issues." -- Joe P.

Those were good enough reason for me, don't know about you guys buy detonation is something I would like to avoid at all cost.
 
I understand the need to run colder plugs, but everyone seems to be getting the "one step colder" plugs. What would be the harm in just getting the coldest plugs made? Then u know that u are covered. Is there a reason why we should only go with the one step colder plugs?
 
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. It has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500C850C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a cold plug, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A hot plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. ?A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70C to 100C from the combustion chamber.

Remeber that if the plug is to LOW of a certain heat range, it can cause continuous fouling, which can cause detonation. If that happens, why use a colder plug right?[
 
Last edited:
Kenetix said:
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. It has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500C850C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a cold plug, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A hot plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. ?A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70C to 100C from the combustion chamber.

Remeber that if the plug is to LOW of a certain heat range, it can cause continuous fouling, which can cause detonation. If that happens, why use a colder plug right?[


Thanx! I got it...
Now only 437 out of 522 things left to get! But I am working on it... :D
 
And about this PCV, does this thing make any noise when it discharges? I am still trying to figure out what that growling tone is that came about only after installing to MBC... A pic of this thing would be great so I know exactly what we are talking about here. I think it is that little canister thingy mounted to the passenger side firewall with the 2 hoses comming out of the top. Is this correct? would that greddy one work that scrapin 240 posted a pic of on page 4 as a replacement, or should I get that 323 GTX one?
 
DaKidd said:
And about this PCV, does this thing make any noise when it discharges? I am still trying to figure out what that growling tone is that came about only after installing to MBC... A pic of this thing would be great so I know exactly what we are talking about here. I think it is that little canister thingy mounted to the passenger side firewall with the 2 hoses comming out of the top. Is this correct? would that greddy one work that scrapin 240 posted a pic of on page 4 as a replacement, or should I get that 323 GTX one?

If i'm not mistake the PCV valve is connected to the intake by way of a small rubber hose and then to the engine head, atleast thats how it was in my integra, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Emode said:
i ordered mine a week ago
NGK copper level 7\
DO NOT use those plugs from Sparcko, they suck for our application, i have lost top end power and have been backfiring


prolly cuz those plugs are too cold...or at least is seems that way..the rule of thumb for dsm owners is go one range colder than stock (stock 6) if your running more than 18psi...im running 16psi on my ngk bpr6ekn plugs and theyre great..it just seems unnecessary to go to 7's if your at 10 or so...id go heat range 6..not 7..
 
DaKidd said:
And about this PCV, does this thing make any noise when it discharges? I am still trying to figure out what that growling tone is that came about only after installing to MBC... A pic of this thing would be great so I know exactly what we are talking about here. I think it is that little canister thingy mounted to the passenger side firewall with the 2 hoses comming out of the top. Is this correct? would that greddy one work that scrapin 240 posted a pic of on page 4 as a replacement, or should I get that 323 GTX one?
I saw both valves at the dealership today. They were very small, as I was expecting some large bulky valve contraption thing.. The thing that puzzles me is that the 323 PCV valve is *smaller* than the stock valve we have, so why would that be better? Wouldn't that put even MORE stress on the engine? :confused:

By the way, the valve was ~$15 USD. I can get them and ship them to anyone here and may also be able to get a lower price for more than 10.
 
The 323 GTX PCV valve was designed to work with a boosted engine, ours is not (n/a engine w/a turbo on it). It's fine for the low boost level from the factory, but it'll fail once you turn it up.
 
/\ /\ I agree that the above theory makes sense, but the question is why does a smaller PCV valve make a smarter choice over the one that we currently have in our MSP engines? I think for the answer we need someone to explain what a PCV valve does (because I have no clue) and why the smaller 323 GTX valve is better (and not just because it's from a turbo car).
 
PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilitation. It routes blow-by gases that escape past the rings back into the intake system so they can be burned up in the combustion process. Without this ventilation system, pressure would build up in the crankcase, decreasing efficiency, and possibly breaking things.

In the old days, cars just had a downtube coming out of the engine block that vented blow-by to the atmosphere. Naturally, it was a huge source of pollution, and was eventually replaced by the PCV valve and it's associated intake plumbing.
 
Tex said:
PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilitation. It routes blow-by gases that escape past the rings back into the intake system so they can be burned up in the combustion process. Without this ventilation system, pressure would build up in the crankcase, decreasing efficiency, and possibly breaking things.

In the old days, cars just had a downtube coming out of the engine block that vented blow-by to the atmosphere. Naturally, it was a huge source of pollution, and was eventually replaced by the PCV valve and it's associated intake plumbing.

Sounds good, this being said then it holds that a larger PCV valve would be better then going with a small one because the larger the diamter of the PCV valve the less pressure build up on the head. So then why would the PCV valve off a smaller 323gtx be better then the current one on the MSP engine that is larger?
 
Kenetix said:
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. It has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500C850C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a cold plug, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A hot plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. ?A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70C to 100C from the combustion chamber.

Remeber that if the plug is to LOW of a certain heat range, it can cause continuous fouling, which can cause detonation. If that happens, why use a colder plug right?[


Joe rocks - I'm curious to hear Joe's take on the raging PCV valve debate....
(hear ya)
 
chwood said:
Joe rocks - I'm curious to hear Joe's take on the raging PCV valve debate....
(hear ya)

I've got an e-mail sent to Joe and hopefully when he gets a chance he'll respond with a for sure answer. As for now I am going to keep the car the way it is untill I hear more for sure information.

On a side note I almost think this thread should be a stickey, it has a lot of usefull information for people who want to run higherboost and different measures you should take and is an all around decent thread about it. Just a thought...
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: b**** please.

03SOMSP said:
This exactly the kind of response I was expecting from a cheater and coward like you!

mentally chanllenged? uhh..... go tell that to the UT professors that approved my thesis and completion of my Master's Degree last year and my company putting me in chatge of their biggest project costing $150,000,000.
And what IF I was mentally challenged? At least it is not a crime!! Are you making fun of mentally challenged people? I hope you never have a mentally challenged kid.
Are you saying I am guy? Go tell that to me wife. I am happily married with two kids.

My friend blew his WRX motor running too much. He went and paid for a new block and did not even try to cheat his warranty.

I was wrong mixing warranty with insurance cost. Yes they are 2 sepparate things, but since you are so "smart" you could have figured out what I was trying to say. Warranty fraud is something that many people do or try to do. It affects everyone. If this problem did not exist, car manufacturers would offer longer warranty or cars would cost less. Does anyone know how much car manufacturers paid for false claims? we are the ones that at the end pay for those false claims like another friend I know that tried to have his car fixed under warranty because the moron run his car with no oil!!

Bottom line is you are a cheater and coward!!
I also can't believe those that support your stupidity!!

It's called Humor Mr. Genius...and please illuminate me oh one of high mind and true intellect what does "putting me in chatge" mean? You cant help it if you are of such an elevated mindset that you cant comprehend such low browed facetiousness.
Perhaps what I should have said was that you are so smart its like youre mentally challenged. You sail so far out into the sea of intellect that you fall back over the precipice of stupidity. Its like you are so damn smart you're handicapped. Youre such a strange beast you could be the head of Mensa and still participate in the Special Olympics. You poor debilitatingly clever creature, whoa to one who must bear such a heavy mental burden, whoa to all those liken to you who must carry the crushing weight of such an overwhelmingly large mental capacity.
 

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