tired of spark plug bull sh*#!

[wicked]

I got sick of trying to find the plugs for our cars,and I've been told a lot of different thingsI searched these forums,talked to other tech's,looked through parts books and i found
a break down code for NGK
our stock plugs are-pzfr6f
the next step colder with the same reach
pzfr5f you can get them at www.sparkplugs.com
it seems so easy to get that but it really wasn't.

if any one has any input or problems with this then feel free to post about it

 

[KpaBap]

cant you just go to autozone and pick up a set of bosch platinums,

i doubt there's anything special about the msp plugs other than heat range

 

[kNOWfREED0m]

ok first calm down, breath... now i use these plugs http://www.apexr1.com/ngkbkr7e.html NGK bkr7e now i know some people have been saying that these plugs aren't good for our cars, makes it idle harder..blah blah. All i can tell you is that for me they work fine, 2 steps colder i belive. Anyways they work FINE with my car i diden't need to gap em at all .035 is how they came. They have been in my car for about 3 months now and work just fine.

 

[cvp0917]

ive been to autozone and pepboys and neither of them can tell me barely anything about our cars. they couldnt even tell me how much oil to put in the engine (dont have an owner's manual) or how much tranny fluid (still dont know). its pretty sad and its not just the msp but the regular protege as well. they barely have anything. i did however find this just know. hope it helps.

Copper:
NGK: ZFR6F-11 (stock heat range) or ZFR7F (colder)
Denso: KJ20CRL11, KJ20CR11 (stock heat range) or KJ22CRL8 (colder)
Autolite: 5224 (stock heat range)
Splitfire: SF522D (stock heat range)
Bosch: 7562(FR8LCX) (stock heat range)

Platinum:
NGK: PZFR6F-11 (OEM Plug) or PZFR7F (colder)
Denso: PKJ20CR8 (stock heat range)
Autolite: Platinum - AP5224 ; Double Platinum - APP5224 (stock heat range)
Splitfire: TP522D (stock heat range)
Bosch: Platinum - 4230(FR8LPX);Platinum2 - 4301; Platinum+4 - 4418 (all stock heat range)

Iridium:
NGK: IZFR6F (stock heat range)
Denso: IK20 (stock heat range); ik22 (colder)

 

[03MSP]

the 5's wouldn't be colder...bigger numbers means colder; unless for some reason those type of plugs (the pf thingys) are reversed.

 

[cvp0917]

i dunno, i just found that posted of emode on http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71334

apparently he got it from the modder's guide.

 

[wicked]

the 5's wouldn't be colder...bigger numbers means colder; unless for some reason those type of plugs (the pf thingys) are reversed.

the 5 is coolder I used ngk's partID guide it lists how to read the whole code

if you think different then you can take the time to look it up like i did.

 

[03MSP]

the 5 is coolder I used ngk's partID guide it lists how to read the whole code

if you think different then you can take the time to look it up like i did.

Hey man, if you researched I'm a believer. I just thought you might have mistyped or something.

Funny, since the other NGK's (like the zfr7f and bkr7e) go by the way I was thinking.

 

[wicked]

ok first calm down, breath... now i use these plugs http://www.apexr1.com/ngkbkr7e.html NGK bkr7e now i know some people have been saying that these plugs aren't good for our cars, makes it idle harder..blah blah. All i can tell you is that for me they work fine, 2 steps colder i belive. Anyways they work FINE with my car i diden't need to gap em at all .035 is how they came. They have been in my car for about 3 months now and work just fine.

I don't know who first thought to use the bkr7e plugs but I don't think they did their research first.they are the wrong reach,heat range,and and are copper so they don't fire as hot or conduct as well or last as long.

maybe someone with some plug knoledge can explain this point out why they chose bkr7e's

by the way the heat range has nothing to do with how hot the plug fires it is just how fast it dissapates heat

 

[wicked]

Hey man, if you researched I'm a believer. I just thought you might have mistyped or something.

Funny, since the other NGK's (like the zfr7f and bkr7e) go by the way I was thinking.

thats what I thought to but NGK says differently

that would explain why people with the 7's tend to detanate.I know my bkr7e's do

 

[Quik89Si]

thats what I thought to but NGK says differently

that would explain why people with the 7's tend to detanate.I know my bkr7e's do

On www.sparkplugs.com it goes over how exactly the NGK plugs are labeled. On part of the diagram, it has a scale from 3 or 4 down to 11. By the 11, it says "colder" and up by the 3 or 4 (whichever it is) it says "hotter".

It also lists what the pre-set gap is for whatever # you have after the " - " in the plug #. For example, "-8" would be a .032 gap, while a "-11" would be a .044 gap.

Alex

 

[03MSPRO]

just stick to stock plugs. That's my advise. The are already 1 step colder from a regular Protege. I wasted $20 on some Denso plugs KJ22CRL8 that made the car idle funny and bog down. There several people here boostinmg 10-12 psi on stock plugs. If you want to keep the car from detonating, lower the intake temperatures and use 93 octane or better.

 

[I'm Allen]

From the NGK website...

A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material.

Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs

The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 500C-850C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850C the spark plug will overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70C to 100C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10C to 20C.

Hope this helps. By the way, I use the Denso KJ22CR-L8's.

Allen-

 

[Swerny]

7 is a colder plug than 6.
5 is a hotter plug than 6.
Therefore, you wouldn't want to run the 5's in the MSP, especially not with increased boost.
My $0.02.

 

[mattybo]

just stick to stock plugs. That's my advise. The are already 1 step colder from a regular Protege. I wasted $20 on some Denso plugs KJ22CRL8 that made the car idle funny and bog down. There several people here boostinmg 10-12 psi on stock plugs. If you want to keep the car from detonating, lower the intake temperatures and use 93 octane or better.

god i hate it when people say things like this and confuse everyone. I use those spark plugs, along with many other people...with NO problems. Please dont make claims that the spark plugs are what caused your problem because you openly admitted in another thread that you didnt know what was causing the problem. They work fine for me and for I'm Allen!

 

[03MSPRO]

god i hate it when people say things like this and confuse everyone. I use those spark plugs, along with many other people...with NO problems. Please dont make claims that the spark plugs are what caused your problem because you openly admitted in another thread that you didnt know what was causing the problem. They work fine for me and for I'm Allen!

In my case, the spark plugs did cause the problem. After going back to stock plugs the problem was gone. Not everycar is the same. Just because something work for someone it does not mean it will work for everyone.

BTW, what did I say that confuses everyone?

 

[mattybo]

In my case, the spark plugs did cause the problem. After going back to stock plugs the problem was gone. Not everycar is the same. Just because something work for someone it does not mean it will work for everyone.

You sure they were gapped properly? I have yet to hear of 1 person having troubles with these spark plugs (except you).

They are a perfect fit for our stock plugs, they are EXACTLY the same. Down to the gap and extended reach....

 

[unwrittenLaw]

yeah, make sure if you swap plugs to get extended reach...

 

[03MSPRO]

You sure they were gapped properly? I have yet to hear of 1 person having troubles with these spark plugs (except you).

They are a perfect fit for our stock plugs, they are EXACTLY the same. Down to the gap and extended reach....

They came pre gapped already, but I checked anyways. I think the Unichip did not like them.

 

[BOOSTR]

The stock plugs are fine. At least that has been my experience. I have over 32,000 on them and ordered 4 new stock plugs for the pending change.

I am not running stock boost either.