Tips for boosted MSP owners

[Eric-BlackMSP]

Also each car has its inherit strengths and weakness. The MSP may not be a drag king stock, but it does wonder on the autocross track. Just like the SRT4 may not handle the best(not sure?) stock, but it certainly a great drag racer.

With enough money you can do ANYTHING to any car. I have seen 11 second Z24s, hell look at how far the Civic has come!

People should stop pointing out the flaws in the car, and starting pointing out how to fix them. I think we are making great progress with the tuning of this car, it just takes time. We are at a little disadvantage considering our platform, but we should be ok.

Thanks to everyone for adding to this post, I hope it helps some people.

-Eric

 

[boostisgood]

Eric, thats what Im talkin about bro. I am not doubting DS at all. I never said that here. I just think people need to see what he is talking about, before they go and crank boost, and s*** a piston.

 

[II-Savy]

So back on topic -

More general rules.

94 oct
Maybe keep the IC cool with a spray...
Boost gauge
MBC
Colder plugs

Safe boost level in the warmer months...
<10 PSI

Do we agree on this?

 

[CustomMSP]

How much of a difference would the 94octane make offer 93octane performance/safety wise

 

[azian6er]

How much of a difference would the 94octane make offer 93octane performance/safety wise

not much really.

1pt worth i guess. Just use 93 with toulene and call it a day.

-B

 

[FrozenMazda]

I see we have a lot of focus on us being very careful about our engines. This has been very helpful to me for I am still VERY green at the tuning bit of the car (in fact, I still haven't installed my TT I bought about 5 months ago (hand)). Thanks to all who have posted here about recommendations for keeping the "fragile" (in comparison to other boosted motors in the class) motor in one piece.

Now with all the motor talk going on... isn't our tranny not the strongest point of our car either? I remember hearing/reading somewhere that the tranny could give out as well. Has this happened to anybody and also, has anybody done anything to counteract this problem (custom internals, cryogenic treatment, etc.) and to what benefit would it have?

Replies, comments, flames, anything?

Thanks for all the past and continued help.

-Roach

 

[Brian MP5T]

^^^ What TT do you have? I Have APEX-i, it's s*** simple!!

 

[t3ase]

I give props to DS for his car, I'll give more when I see a vid! I have no reason to doubt or give him 100% credit.

Have to apologize for the blurriness, as it's a bit hard to hold the camera and keep the car in a straight line all at once. This pic was taken a while back before it cooled down. The gauge measures in bar and I *was* at 1 bar the minute I tried to take the picture but apparently I can't keep the foot down as I mess with the camera.

Keep in mind guys, as I said before, this pic was taken before the temperatures dropped (heh, and before I painted the pod to match). Boost is now down closer to around stock or so due to the air and climate. Also consider that my car is in Texas, so I don't have to worry much about elevation or atmospheric changes and all that. Car has 31k miles on it and no *apparent* engine damage, just a few clutch issues. About fuel, I normally run 93 octane, however, on my first trip out of state, it was impossible to find anything over 89 (which was premium *shudder*) and I then turned the boost down literally to stock level. The second time I went to Colorado, I remembered the great octane selection and massive elevation changes, and I just took the controller off entirely.

You've just gotta think about things like that that you would never think about with a N/A car.

Mods:
JoePMBC Manual Boost Controller (14.7psi at the time)
NGK BKR7E-11 Plugs (0.31 gap; checked & replaced at every oil change)
Royal Purple Racing 21 Oil
Homemade Intake Extension with K&N Filter
Dedicated BPV/Wastegate Lines

<img src="http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/t3ase/MSP-Intake/msp---intake-extension.jpg" width="640" height="480">
<img src="http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/t3ase/MSP-HoseTechniques/msp---engine-bay-front-left.jpg" width="640" height="480">

 

[II-Savy]

So you guys think the following is a good tip for MSP owners?

94 octain
Maybe keep the IC cool with a spray...
Boost gauge
MBC
Colder plugs

Safe boost level in the warmer months...
<10 PSI

 

[DiscreetSpeed]

id agree, exhaust is a killer but if your just upping the boost 2 to 3 psi above stock there'd be no problem.

 

[II-Savy]

What do you mean by exhaust is a killer?

How about adding a cat back at 2.5 inches? Would that be another tip to add to the list to help?

94 octain
Maybe keep the IC cool with a spray...
Boost gauge
MBC
Colder plugs
CAT BACK

<10 PSI

 

[Eric-BlackMSP]

Well it also matters if it is flashed or not. Flashed, I wouldn't go above 8psi to 9psi tops.

Unflashed 10psi is ok, as long as you dont drive the car hard while under loads ie 4th and 5th hear. I think a DP with replaced S pipe is much better then a cat back.

For both cars 93 octane plus toluene is a must imo.

However, I personally wouldn't up the boost past 8psi on any mazdaspeed until I have done all the other mods first.

Call me a nervous nelly, but I really dont want to spead 3k on a motor.

Good luck guys in your boosting, and please keep us posted as often as possible!

T3ase , thanks for mentioning about the atmoshpereic differences and your driving habits. Thats what we need more of on this forum, not just I boost 1 bar. Just becareful when you boost with a camera in your hand! lol.

Alright guys great sharing as usual .

-Eric

 

[II-Savy]

Couple questions:

What the flash have to do with anything? My car still runs insanely rich.

S pipe...is that the section sorta in the middle of the car?

 

[Eric-BlackMSP]

The flash is the ecu reprogram done at the warranty. What it does is advance the timing, and nothing else.

The problem is if you advance the timing and up the boost you may into a spot were you need fuel but you wont have it because it hasn't been delievered yet, or has already been delievered. This will cause detination.

It has been debated tons of times on this forum, but everyone says 9.5psi is the max for flashers hands down.

The S pipe is the casted piping the connects the turbo to the Downpipe. Some people say it is not restrictive others say it is. Best bet is just to change it out with a less restrictive one for sure.

When changing your DP, I would go catless, unless you have emissions then switch to one hi flow cat. Or eliminate the second cat, and replace that with a high flow. You have some options.

-Eric

 

[BOOSTR]

I for one am sick and tired about the whole boost issue. Get some balls and up your boost! Or just STF UP! Quit whinning about warranties.

The car's engine is not as weak as people on here try to make you believe. I have a similar Mazda built engine that runs 10 & 14 psi of boost. (Factory boost was 7.2) It has a lower compression ratio than our MSP's, so 14 won't work in most cases. It has 187,000 miles on it. I rebuilt the head to put a fresh cam and valves in it; but it did not need it. But if you get a dual stage boost controller and set stage 1 at stock psi and stage 2 at 10-12 depending on where you live, you will be fine.

 

[Brian MP5T]

^^^ Lets' all boost our turbo's!! DAWIV said it's ok and he will buy us all engines!!

Really man. I know that there have only been a couple of people blow engines, and of those, only a couple can really say that it was because of the boost. Build the engine up then up the boost. It's safer and better for the car. Don't just go around telling everyone to up the boost. It's really counterproductive.

later...Brian

(p5white)

 

[BOOSTR]

No, not buying any engines or telling everyone to up the boost. Just expressing my opinion and experience with Mazda engines and my MSP.

Not everyone wants or needs to take the steps that you did in building your Mazda, which is quite nice! Great job.

You do not need forged internals to run higher boost. I know this as a fact. I took apart my engine and can assure you that the cylinder walls and pistons were in excellent shape.

Whatever, do what you want. Just my 2 cents.

 

[surferzero57]

How about the "fact" that our connecting rods don't withstand 240hp??? Seems like that if you wanted to do the thing right, you should just build the damn thing right the first time!

Thanks for the good posts guys...but seriously, Brians got a point; just look at the numbers game (i.e. cost for rebuilt engine vs. forged internals...)

 

[DiscreetSpeed]

I for one am sick and tired about the whole boost issue. Get some balls and up your boost! Or just STF UP! Quit whinning about warranties.

(werd)

Really man. I know that there have only been a couple of people blow engines, and of those, only a couple can really say that it was because of the boost. Build the engine up then up the boost. It's safer and better for the car. Don't just go around telling everyone to up the boost. It's really counterproductive.

yeah sure let me pull the money out my ass and pay for the internals and all....dude stfu...after readin your post everyones gonna be scared shitless to do anything...dont your have p5 board to roam.

 

[DiscreetSpeed]

How about the "fact" that our connecting rods don't withstand 240hp??? Seems like that if you wanted to do the thing right, you should just build the damn thing right the first time!

Thanks for the good posts guys...but seriously, Brians got a point; just look at the numbers game (i.e. cost for rebuilt engine vs. forged internals...)

who said that, do you know how much spoolinmp3 was pushin with stock internals??
noobie=spend a little more time reading the boards.