Timing problem after rebuild?

[whiteproto02]

I'm having problems with getting the right information on how to set up the cams once the cam pulleys have been removed. I recently took the head into a shop that replaced all of the seals and machined the head. They also cleaned to camshafts but had to have the pullys removed. I cannot find propper information on the possotion of the camshafts before installing the pulleys. It looks like the nods on the cams for the pulleys should be pointing straight up because this allows the notches on the pullyes to be alligned with the top of the head and pointing at each other. I know the crank should be pointing staight up at TDC. So far I have the the engine set up this way and fired it up tonight but it will not idle and it sounds like it is missing. Is this the right way of setting up the cams and pullys? I'm not sure what is going on. Any help would be great.

 

[justanothermp5]

yea the I and the E should be facing each other and cylnder 1 should be at TDC

make sure u tighten the tensioner after u do this, use the opening for an allen wrench, its alot easier

 

[funkytuqe]

Yah maybe pull everything apart and double check the timing marks on the crank pulley and cam gears, but what you did sounds right.
I remember when i did my timing belt that i had to try it a few times to get the belt on and everything lined up right. Its always a good idea to rotate the motor manually a few times over after installing everything to make sure things stay in line.

 

[slavrenz]

Yah maybe pull everything apart and double check the timing marks on the crank pulley and cam gears, but what you did sounds right.
I remember when i did my timing belt that i had to try it a few times to get the belt on and everything lined up right. Its always a good idea to rotate the motor manually a few times over after installing everything to make sure things stay in line.

The service manual even states this: you should rotate the engine manually 2 or 3 times after installing the belt, to make sure that your crankshaft marks stay aligned.

 

[whiteproto02]

Thanks for the reassurance guys. I finally got the car back together. Turns out I missed one of the electrical plugs and one of the fuel injectors was boogered up.

I started the car this morning and it is still smoking blue smoke. I know my piston rings are good because I did a leak down test and compression test to determine the problem in the first place. What else could cause the car to blow blue smoke at start up? PVC valve? Something else?

 

[Tzar177]

Thanks for the reassurance guys. I finally got the car back together. Turns out I missed one of the electrical plugs and one of the fuel injectors was boogered up.

I started the car this morning and it is still smoking blue smoke. I know my piston rings are good because I did a leak down test and compression test to determine the problem in the first place. What else could cause the car to blow blue smoke at start up? PVC valve? Something else?

Blue smoke? maybe smurfs hiding in your engine?

 

[whiteproto02]

I stopped by the auto parts store to finish picking up a few things and told the guy about the smoke I'm getting after the rebuild. He said I should try a lighter weight of motor oil because the thicker oil I'm using is too thick when it's cold and just sits, therefor it can cause smoke. Not sure I believe that one. I've run 10w30 all my life and never had a car smoke because of cold weather. He also said that I should wait it out and give it a little time, it might stop smoking after about 200-300 miles. Does that sound right to anyone?

 

[slavrenz]

I stopped by the auto parts store to finish picking up a few things and told the guy about the smoke I'm getting after the rebuild. He said I should try a lighter weight of motor oil because the thicker oil I'm using is too thick when it's cold and just sits, therefor it can cause smoke. Not sure I believe that one. I've run 10w30 all my life and never had a car smoke because of cold weather. He also said that I should wait it out and give it a little time, it might stop smoking after about 200-300 miles. Does that sound right to anyone?

I would try switching to 5W-30, especially if you're in a colder climate. 10W-30 really is pretty thick for anywhere where it gets down near 0, and it's hurting your gas mileage to boot.

I'm not sure that it's the cause of your smoking. You could go ahead and try changing your PCV valve and see what that does. Otherwise, keep checking your oil level to see if your burning through oil.

 

[justanothermp5]

on a freshly rebuilt engine u should def use 5w-30, i used it on mine and no burning oil problems

its what mazda recommends anyways for lower temps, and i trust that since u just got it rebuilt your not using synthetic correct?

 

[P-Funk!]

Smioke right after a rebuild is normal. Is it still smoking? Even warmed up? You may have needed a piston job as well..

 

[justanothermp5]

^it sounded like he was trying to say it smokes all the time but maybe im missunderstanding
i got a bit of smoke on my first start up, but i accidentally poured a bit of oil down the spark plug hole LOL

 

[whiteproto02]

I only get the smoke on start up. It's not nearly as much as before the build. I'm not running synthetic. I'm going to change the oil to 5w30 tomorrow to see if that helps. I replaced the pcv valve before the rebuild but I tried blowing through it both directions and it allows air to pass both ways.

 

[P-Funk!]

That is it! Bad PCV! Was there alot of oil in it?

Consider adding an oil catch can to the system. I replaced my PCV with a simple filter (getting high mileage blowby and oil) and that has helped my idle (i was not getting oil burning that i am aware of).

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

Thinner oil isn't going to alleviate smoking at startup, it's going to make it worse. 10w30 is fine to run and it is not contributing to your smoking problem. I run it year round with no issues. Replace the PVC. If you're still smoking at startup but not after, then it's probably valve seals. Maybe they were not replaced correctly. Piston rings smoke all the time (and are not the issue if your compression test was good), bad valve guide seals smoke a ton at startup because oil in the head has leaked into the piston while the engine is off. Take it back to the shop and make them fix it for free (if the PVC doesn't solve it).

 

[whiteproto02]

Believe me, I'm about to the point of calling up the shop and cussing them out. Anyway, the PCV valve was letting oil through. I checked it last night and the tubes coming off of the valve were caked with oil. I had to use my air compressor and a q-tip to get it out. The PCV is letting air both ways. Which way is the air supposed to flow? From the intake to the valve cover, correct? Are there any other areas that might cause the car to smoke? Other than seals and rings. I'm going to do another compression check if a new PCV valve doesn't work.

 

[justanothermp5]

Thinner oil isn't going to alleviate smoking at startup, it's going to make it worse. 10w30 is fine to run and it is not contributing to your smoking problem. I run it year round with no issues. Replace the PVC. If you're still smoking at startup but not after, then it's probably valve seals. Maybe they were not replaced correctly. Piston rings smoke all the time (and are not the issue if your compression test was good), bad valve guide seals smoke a ton at startup because oil in the head has leaked into the piston while the engine is off. Take it back to the shop and make them fix it for free (if the PVC doesn't solve it).

1. you didnt get your engine rebuilt, it may be fine sure but it could be causing the smoking problem either way
you are right about the thinner oil not solving anything though

2. Piston rings do not smoke all the time if there end gap was set correctly

bad valves seals could be it, bad PCV not pvc lol but yea it could be that too, especially if it allows air both ways

 

[Tzar177]

Believe me, I'm about to the point of calling up the shop and cussing them out. Anyway, the PCV valve was letting oil through. I checked it last night and the tubes coming off of the valve were caked with oil. I had to use my air compressor and a q-tip to get it out. The PCV is letting air both ways. Which way is the air supposed to flow? From the intake to the valve cover, correct? Are there any other areas that might cause the car to smoke? Other than seals and rings. I'm going to do another compression check if a new PCV valve doesn't work.

air flows out FROM the valve cover into the intake. That is why some use an oil catch can to trap any oil that might blow by the PCV

 

[whiteproto02]

What do you suggest for making a catch can? Something inline?

 

[justanothermp5]

you CAN make your own but it would prb be better if you bought one pre-made, also alot easier

protegegarage sells some nice ones

 

[whiteproto02]

It was definitely the pcv valve. Sorry for the confusion before. I know it's the PCV and not PVC. I sell pipe and irrigation parts so that' why I get them mixed up. I cleaned out the tubing last night and then this morning it didn't smoke. AWESOME! I replaced the pcv valve and will order a catch can shortly. Thanks for all the help fella's.