2013~2016 Timing Chain Failures?

According to some mechanics, there are few spots on the valve gasket that you'll need form a gasket material on it or it will leak.

Jay
The image below shows exactly where the rtv goes.
 

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I wonder that myself after I found code P2090 and my average MPG has dropped from 22.1 to 17.7 MPG recently. Of course, while googling online, I also found the same youtube video about the timing chain going to failed and how weak they were made, etc.

Since I have a bad VVT selenoid gasket seal, so I ordered a new seal and the valve cover gasket. I will check the timing chain tension and maybe I can get my camera down in there to take a look at the tensioners and such. Honestly, I think the timing chain is fine since I don't hear anything rattling and it has been well maintained.

Jay
Dbfl is correct. After all the work replacing valve cover gasket and oil control valve (VVT solenoid) seal, many have found the OCV itself is leaking from the solenoid:

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

Also read the post #51、#52、and #53 in the same thread for more details.

You really want to make sure the OCV itself is not leaking before you start to replace VC gasket and OCV seal.

I don’t believe you can see too many timing chain components with valve cover removed. For better timing chain protection, use new GF-6 oil.
 
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Good call on the VVT solenoid unit. I do see some oil residue around the VVT solenoid itself and thinking it was just the OCV seal. I'll be dang!! I should be able to replaced this VVT solenoid once the valve cover is off, right? The oem part is $200+ for one. The aftermarket is fraction of the price. Since the oem part didn't last as long, so I buy the aftermarket VVT? I see that Beck are selling for $53+ for one. I don't have any CEL codes on the dash, so not sure if the VVT is bad with an exception of a small leakage. This could be the reason why I drop MPG recently.

Please let me know.

Thanks in advance.

Jay
 
Good call on the VVT solenoid unit. I do see some oil residue around the VVT solenoid itself and thinking it was just the OCV seal. I'll be dang!! I should be able to replaced this VVT solenoid once the valve cover is off, right? The oem part is $200+ for one. The aftermarket is fraction of the price. Since the oem part didn't last as long, so I buy the aftermarket VVT? I see that Beck are selling for $53+ for one. I don't have any CEL codes on the dash, so not sure if the VVT is bad with an exception of a small leakage. This could be the reason why I drop MPG recently.

Please let me know.

Thanks in advance.

Jay
IMO, OEM parts will always have the best quality with the latest revision. The current OEM control valve solenoid PE01-14-420A has revised from PE01-14-420 which should have improved the sealing at solenoid. Aftermarket parts sometimes are hit-and-miss. As a DIYer I personally will always use OEM parts, except cabin air filter or something that are not critical, just for best possible quality and fit. It’s upsetting if the parts installed having issues after a work is done. See the thread here on problematic belt tensioner replacement esperience between OEM / INA and aftermarket Gate tensioner:

Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?

If I need a control valve solenoid, I’d try to get an OEM OCV from an eBay seller overseas where it seems to have much better price.

Genuine Mazda VALVE, OIL CONTROL PE01-14-420A - eBay

Of course I’d wipe clean the OCV and verify the solenoid leak a couple of times before I get a new OCV. It could be the culprit of your poor mpg issue, but I doubt it.
 
I bought an aftermarket one for $19 and it works fine they are easy to install once you have the valve cover off. If you have the money go for the oem one.
 
I bought an aftermarket one for $19 and it works fine they are easy to install once you have the valve cover off. If you have the money go for the oem one.
The online price for OEM OCV PE01-14-420A in the US usually is ~$188.72 with MSRP $280.89, and you found one for only $19 from aftermarket? That would be the one I’m going to get if I’m planning to sell my CX-5 and my OCV is leaking.
 
I found an oem part for $185. The cheap ones are on ebay for around $22. The one that I was looking at is the one from Beck/Arnley for $55.00

From my past experienced with buying parts, I discovered that Beck/Arnley usually oem part in Beck/Arnley box.

But replacing is straight forward right?

Thanks,

Jay
 
I found an oem part for $185. The cheap ones are on ebay for around $22. The one that I was looking at is the one from Beck/Arnley for $55.00

From my past experienced with buying parts, I discovered that Beck/Arnley usually oem part in Beck/Arnley box.

But replacing is straight forward right?

Thanks,

Jay
For OEM OCV PE01-14-420A I’d get it from this eBay seller partsouq who is an international OEM automotive parts seller partsouq.com located near Dubai, United Arab Emirates. It’s $101.91 + $27.04 shipping. Some have used them for hard to find Mazda parts and they received the items within 3 days!

Mazda parts online...Who has the best service?

Beck/Arnley may use “OEM” parts, meaning the parts are from the same manufactures who make those genuine OE parts. The design of those “OEM” parts may be similar, but the quality and cosmetic are different. And there’s no guarantee Beck/Arnley’s OCV is “OEM” until someone has used it and verified it. Beck/Arnley definitely doesn’t use genuine OE part in its box.

Excellent point. The term "OEM" is often misused. OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. OE stands for Original Equipment. The OEM is the supplier for OE parts.

Example:

Pilkington is an auto glass manufacturer. They are one supplier of windshields to Honda. Pilkington makes two different windshields for each application - one that is made to Honda's specifications that contains the Honda "H" logo and one that meets Pilkington's specifications that has only Pilkington's name on it. One is available only through Honda dealers. One is only available through aftermarket suppliers. The two versions are interchangeable - both will work, but the aftermarket version may contain more defects that may or may not be significant or noticeable to the customer.

OE = Original Equipment. This is the part that came on the vehicle from the factory. The part may be made in-house by the automaker or supplied to them from another company.

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer. This is the company that made the OE part. OEMs often make both OE and aftermarket versions to different specifications.

OE/OEM "equivalent" = This applies to a part made by a third party who claims the part is equal to or exceeds the standards of the OE part. It may or may not.

Generally, a genuine OE part will offer the highest quality. For example, Mazda doesn't want their ignition coils failing left and right resulting in warranty claims and customer dissatisfaction, so they provide specifications and choose suppliers who will offer a satisfactory product.

And yes, replacing the OCV is straight forward with one bolt once the valve cove is removed.

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I found an oem part for $185. The cheap ones are on ebay for around $22. The one that I was looking at is the one from Beck/Arnley for $55.00

From my past experienced with buying parts, I discovered that Beck/Arnley usually oem part in Beck/Arnley box.

But replacing is straight forward right?

Thanks,

Jay
Its very easy to swap out the OCV, hardest thing about it is removing valve cover but you'll have that off already.
 
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