Thinking of turbocharging your P5? Here's a guide for getting started...
- Thread starter neox.286
- Start date
thecrash91
Member
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
so about those ebay turbos for about 700 bucks. someone recently told me he used a few and he beat the s*** out of them and he never had a problem. what are your guys opinions? they are the universal ones, i'd need to get a downpipe and manifold myself.
snike05: yes they are the same from the pro5
thecrash91: long as it's a garrett, turbonetics, or other reputable turbo brand turbo it should last you regardless of where you get it from (incl. ebay)....it's the KNOCKOFFS off of ebay you must be wary about, just ensure that what you are buying is indeed what they say it is
thecrash91: long as it's a garrett, turbonetics, or other reputable turbo brand turbo it should last you regardless of where you get it from (incl. ebay)....it's the KNOCKOFFS off of ebay you must be wary about, just ensure that what you are buying is indeed what they say it is
thecrash91
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
does not specify it as far as i could see, this is it lemme know what you think
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
mp3-79bronco
Member
- :
- 2001 protege mp3
HAHAHA....NO...those are pieces of s***
mp3-79bronco
Member
- :
- 2001 protege mp3
its the same
the connect on the back of the engine block
pic here:
<---driver's side.............................back of block........................................passenger's side--->
the other connection is on the front of the block...if you are looking at the front of the block, on the driver's side is an L-shaped rubber elbow between two different water passages....the oem way is to use the replacement three-way rubber elbow that comes on the msp there, part number 0000-88-C54
you can see it as part number 24 on this picture:
http://i2.tinypic.com/20asbxu.jpg
there are other options that you can use for water return, but I only wrote this guide to explain the oem way really and I feel that is the easiest and cheapest route you can take so that is what I recommend....before anyone else asks as well, no the 3-way rubber piece does not tend to crack anymore as mazda has updated it with a new version that is much better built
pic here:
<---driver's side.............................back of block........................................passenger's side--->
the other connection is on the front of the block...if you are looking at the front of the block, on the driver's side is an L-shaped rubber elbow between two different water passages....the oem way is to use the replacement three-way rubber elbow that comes on the msp there, part number 0000-88-C54
you can see it as part number 24 on this picture:
http://i2.tinypic.com/20asbxu.jpg
there are other options that you can use for water return, but I only wrote this guide to explain the oem way really and I feel that is the easiest and cheapest route you can take so that is what I recommend....before anyone else asks as well, no the 3-way rubber piece does not tend to crack anymore as mazda has updated it with a new version that is much better built
thanks a lot neox for that explanation! It makes more sense to me now. I have all the parts for conversion I just need the coolant/oil feed and return lines+fitings so I am trying to understand everything before I go out and purchase the remaining parts. I think I've understood everything now. Again thanks, very helpful thread.
You said in the first post that the metal piping on the turbo mates up to this L fitting. What is used to connect the two, a small hose and regular hose clamp or something else?
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If I am to got this route instead of the adapter plate do you have a part number for this 'T' that I can use?
ill see if i can get the part number later after i get out of class...if not ill get thr thread specs for the fitting you will need
as for the water return fitting...the oem part on the n/a car has two connections (inlet and outlet)...the msp part with the number i gave above has a third opening for the metal line from the turbo...all the connections are female, meaning the metal line from the turbo goes straight into it and just needs a clamp to hold it in place
as for the water return fitting...the oem part on the n/a car has two connections (inlet and outlet)...the msp part with the number i gave above has a third opening for the metal line from the turbo...all the connections are female, meaning the metal line from the turbo goes straight into it and just needs a clamp to hold it in place
looks like it's oem parts 60, 61, and 80 in this picture for the oil feed line:
http://i2.tinypic.com/20asbxu.jpg
which translates to part numbers:
0000-88-c74
0000-88-c34
0000-88-c87
according to the accompanying chart here:
http://i2.tinypic.com/20asyvm.jpg
the rest of the oem turbo kit stuff can be found at this link:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123640930
http://i2.tinypic.com/20asbxu.jpg
which translates to part numbers:
0000-88-c74
0000-88-c34
0000-88-c87
according to the accompanying chart here:
http://i2.tinypic.com/20asyvm.jpg
the rest of the oem turbo kit stuff can be found at this link:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123640930
Don't waste your time and money with the OEM stuff - just pick up some generic hardware. Go with a stainless steel tee and aluminum or brass fittings (you always want different materials). Just remember the threading on the back of the block, and that of the OEM pressure sending unit is 1/8" BSPT. What I did was get a tee that had one male 1/8" BSPT end (for the block), one female 1/8" BSPT end (for the pressure sender) and one female 1/8" NPT end (for the NPT to AN fitting for the feed line). I'm pretty sure all these questions have been asked, and asnwered before.
the oem part is that actually...it's a three way connection that goes in place between the oil pressure sender and the block with those threadings that you mentioned above...if you can find them used go for it, if you can find them aftermarket for cheaper go for that...but I gotta admit, finding an aftermarket solution with all of those connections is a lot easier said than done, I've looked and no where sells that kind of connection in store...atp doesn't have a solution...if you can find a website that sells it online other than onlinemazdaparts.com (which is where you can get the oem solution) then please let me know cause that would actually kick ass lol
I agree when it comes to the oem oil feed line, go aftermarket and get stainless steel braided lines instead....but I have to disagree when it comes to the water lines
on my car that I'm putting back to stock I was trying to locate the msp water lines and couldn't...so I went to atp turbo and got all the parts I would need to hook up aftermarket water lines....the price tag? just over $250 in fittings, braided lines, and banjo connections...which was after going through and finding the cheapest, shortest, and easiest connection possible
the oem water lines are WAY cheaper, bolt right up, and look stock too (if your state has emissions like mine)....use the oem parts if possible, it's easier and cheaper
I see where you are coming from when you say don't waste your money on the oem stuff, they can be pricey (and in the case of the oem oil feed line, total crap)...but you can also find them for cheap on the forums, and usually much cheaper than what you would pay for aftermarket parts instead (with the exception of the oil lines)
btw, you can find braided oil lines on ATP Turbo's website...www.atpturbo.com
you will nee -4AN lines to bolt up to the oem connections...I'll double check my measurement when I get home tomorrow night or saturday morning, but if I recall 3 ft. is the magic length you will need, 4 ft. wouldn't hurt but I think it's a little long if I recall...I gotta measure it anyways, I'll let you know
also note: don't buy the oem oil feed line used, period...every single msp I've worked on has basically siezed that line inside the turbo, so if someone were to manage to remove it from their turbo for selling it's likely stripped beyond use and will likely leak because you can't get any kind of leverage on it to tighten it down...it's really just a crap part
and there is nothing wrong with asking questions...it's a 14pg long thread now lol, there's a lot of information, and a lot of banter...I really don't mind re-answering questions, I got nothing better to do anyways lol
I agree when it comes to the oem oil feed line, go aftermarket and get stainless steel braided lines instead....but I have to disagree when it comes to the water lines
on my car that I'm putting back to stock I was trying to locate the msp water lines and couldn't...so I went to atp turbo and got all the parts I would need to hook up aftermarket water lines....the price tag? just over $250 in fittings, braided lines, and banjo connections...which was after going through and finding the cheapest, shortest, and easiest connection possible
the oem water lines are WAY cheaper, bolt right up, and look stock too (if your state has emissions like mine)....use the oem parts if possible, it's easier and cheaper
I see where you are coming from when you say don't waste your money on the oem stuff, they can be pricey (and in the case of the oem oil feed line, total crap)...but you can also find them for cheap on the forums, and usually much cheaper than what you would pay for aftermarket parts instead (with the exception of the oil lines)
btw, you can find braided oil lines on ATP Turbo's website...www.atpturbo.com
you will nee -4AN lines to bolt up to the oem connections...I'll double check my measurement when I get home tomorrow night or saturday morning, but if I recall 3 ft. is the magic length you will need, 4 ft. wouldn't hurt but I think it's a little long if I recall...I gotta measure it anyways, I'll let you know
also note: don't buy the oem oil feed line used, period...every single msp I've worked on has basically siezed that line inside the turbo, so if someone were to manage to remove it from their turbo for selling it's likely stripped beyond use and will likely leak because you can't get any kind of leverage on it to tighten it down...it's really just a crap part
and there is nothing wrong with asking questions...it's a 14pg long thread now lol, there's a lot of information, and a lot of banter...I really don't mind re-answering questions, I got nothing better to do anyways lol
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^^^ I see what you're saying. I just found it easier to go aftermarket. I bought all my fittings for my new (I used to have a stock MSP oil feed line) from either McMaster or Summit Racing. I picked up the tee and adaptor fittings from McMaster and all the line fittings, adaptors, hose ends and line from Summit. IIRC, I had to get a female 1/8" NPT tee, a 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT male adaptor, and a male 1/8" NPT to female 1/8" BSPT adaptor from McMaster. FWIW, the tee is stainelss steel (I've had issues with brass ones breaking) and the adaptors are brass. I got a 1/8" NPT to -4 AN adaptor, -4 AN hose ends and -4 AN line from Summit. Also, 3 ft is going to be quite line for an oil feed line. Stock is like 20 inches or something. Mine is currently like 22 inches and there's quite a bit of room to play.
As for the coolant lines, I don't go near ATP unless I absolutely have to - their prices are crazy! When I build my engine I will be going with braided lines but that's because I want to change the routing a bit to free up some space and clean up the engine bay a bit.
As for the coolant lines, I don't go near ATP unless I absolutely have to - their prices are crazy! When I build my engine I will be going with braided lines but that's because I want to change the routing a bit to free up some space and clean up the engine bay a bit.
yea atp isn't cheap, but they are local to me (like 20 minutes away actually haha) and they have top quality parts as well
I believe you are right on the threadings, if I recall right...I'll have to take a look at those sites for future reference....I too had trouble with the threads shearing on the brass connections, but only once and I've used them since
as for the length, I gotta double check what it is...I'd think 20" would come up a little short, but I really gotta double check...and thanks for reminding me actually, I think I'm going to have to go to atp tomorrow and pick up my oil feed line cause I forgot to order that >.<
I believe you are right on the threadings, if I recall right...I'll have to take a look at those sites for future reference....I too had trouble with the threads shearing on the brass connections, but only once and I've used them since
as for the length, I gotta double check what it is...I'd think 20" would come up a little short, but I really gotta double check...and thanks for reminding me actually, I think I'm going to have to go to atp tomorrow and pick up my oil feed line cause I forgot to order that >.<
Thank you guys, your clearing up questions for me so nicely putting all this time and effort into the post I really appreciate it. I read the thread I couldn't find a part number for the TEE like the other parts. Didn't know it was oem either.
I am finding ATP very expensive so I am trying to find stuff local. I am new to this turbo thing so I am not familiar with the shops that carry the material right now. I can get employee pricing on oem parts so for the water lines I think I will do that.
I am finding ATP very expensive so I am trying to find stuff local. I am new to this turbo thing so I am not familiar with the shops that carry the material right now. I can get employee pricing on oem parts so for the water lines I think I will do that.
mp3-79bronco
Member
- :
- 2001 protege mp3
just use the water lines from the throttle body and run longer hose..
thecrash91
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
ok, as i have asked in the past about those universal turbo kits on ebay, and had bad answers, what do you guys think about this. the 650$ turbo kit on ebay, claimed to be universal, then buy a 150$ obx turbo manifold from ebay, and then a 1k$ garret turbo? so ill basically use the kit just for lines and pipes and intercooler? or should i just stop cheaping out and wait a long ass time to save for a real turbo kit? i;d love to buy a msp stock kit but id assume its rare to find one and once its there its usually gone very quick
