blueprotegelx
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
Will the stock MSP feed line fit directly into the Prosports Oil adapter plate? Or will I need to get a fitting? I don't have the parts with me so I can't check.
Thinking of turbocharging your P5? Here's a guide for getting started...
- Thread starter neox.286
- Start date
The prosport adapter has 1/8" NPT female fitting.
The block has a 1/8" BSPT female threading. The MSP feed line is tee'd there so I would assume that the Tee is also BSPT subsequently the Feed line should also be BSPT.
If that is the case, no it won't be direct fit. You will need to go from BSPT to NPT. You have two choices to do that get a $20 1 peice adapter or for $5 you can get 2 peices to do the same trick mentioned in post 216 from McMaster.
If the msp line is NPT you are in luck no fitting needed.
The block has a 1/8" BSPT female threading. The MSP feed line is tee'd there so I would assume that the Tee is also BSPT subsequently the Feed line should also be BSPT.
If that is the case, no it won't be direct fit. You will need to go from BSPT to NPT. You have two choices to do that get a $20 1 peice adapter or for $5 you can get 2 peices to do the same trick mentioned in post 216 from McMaster.
If the msp line is NPT you are in luck no fitting needed.
blueprotegelx
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
I would assume the MSP feed line is 1/8" BSPT as well then. But I will be heading home this weekend and will test to see if it adapts to the oil adapter plate. If not, I already have a t fitting, so I'll just run the oil feed to the stock oil sending unit location and attach the stock unit in the t-fitting.
blueprotegelx
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
It looks as though I will just be running the Oil feed line the way I originially planned.
-MSP feed line connected to t-fitting to back of block with stock oil sensor placed @ t-fitting and only running my aftermarket oil pressure gauge to oil adapter plate for now.
-MSP feed line connected to t-fitting to back of block with stock oil sensor placed @ t-fitting and only running my aftermarket oil pressure gauge to oil adapter plate for now.
blueprotegelx
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
MSP Oil Feed line fits directly into the oil sandwich plate.
blueprotegelx
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
Or just run them both to a vac block. ha
that too
you don't have to run the oem setup, in actuality this car is not really finicky with the vacuum routing...so long as you have the vacuum flowing through each solenoid in the proper direction, you have all the one way check valves in place and in the right direction, and all the vacuum pieces related to the emissions system are hooked up you will be just fine
you don't have to run the oem setup, in actuality this car is not really finicky with the vacuum routing...so long as you have the vacuum flowing through each solenoid in the proper direction, you have all the one way check valves in place and in the right direction, and all the vacuum pieces related to the emissions system are hooked up you will be just fine
drgnzadiel101
Member
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- 2002 mazda protege5
this is gonna be odd, but could you save money by buying an electronic exhaust cutout and adding it to your stock exhaust rather than buying a whole exhaust system?
wrong thread for that discussion, this is strickly a thread for setting up a turbocharger system on the protege using mostly oem msp turbo kit components...what you do with the exhaust system after the s-pipe, and what gains that different setups after the s-pipe would have should be discussed elsewhere please...let's try to keep it somewhat on topic haha
blueprotegelx
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
Agreed!
I have an easy question, I need refresher course:
I have read that the BOV can be placed anywhere after the MAF (intake mani-MAF-BOV-FMIC) when I relocate it to the cold pipe. But does it matter how close the bov is to the MAF? I was trying to think of a way to save on piping and if it would be possible to just attach my BOV pipe that is <1ft to the MAF coupler? Or is there a minimum amount of inches the MAF needs to be from the BOV? Thus it would consist of:
MAF->2.75" reducer coupler to 2.5"->BOV pipe with flange->and then universal piping to FMIC.
Also is it correct that the MAF needs to be about 12" away from the throttle body? or does that matter as well? I can not find my file I saved with the detailed information.
I have an easy question, I need refresher course:
I have read that the BOV can be placed anywhere after the MAF (intake mani-MAF-BOV-FMIC) when I relocate it to the cold pipe. But does it matter how close the bov is to the MAF? I was trying to think of a way to save on piping and if it would be possible to just attach my BOV pipe that is <1ft to the MAF coupler? Or is there a minimum amount of inches the MAF needs to be from the BOV? Thus it would consist of:
MAF->2.75" reducer coupler to 2.5"->BOV pipe with flange->and then universal piping to FMIC.
Also is it correct that the MAF needs to be about 12" away from the throttle body? or does that matter as well? I can not find my file I saved with the detailed information.
yes, turbocharger -> intercooler -> bov -> maf -> intake
or turbocharger -> bov -> intercooler -> maf -> intake
there are guys who argue that having the bov on the coldpipe side is 'better' because it vents off denser air but it's kinda a moot discussion...I've ran it both ways and never had an issue with it on the hotpipe instead
as for distance this can affect things...the forums say to place the maf at least 20" from the throttle body, but from personal experience you can place it less than a foot from the throttle body without any issue...I usually have mine about 10-15" from the throttle body
the thing that could affect the MAF the most is the distance between the bov and the MAF sensor...when you discharge the air in the pipe it can cause a disturbance in the air that -could- mess with it's reading and cause it to stall when you come out of gear...I haven't ran it close enough to the MAF to say that I agree or disagree, but the logic is sound...I'd say, depending on the type of bov you have, at least 6-7" from the MAF would put you in the range of no worries
you might also consider taking the piping to a welding shop and having them weld it together rather than having a bunch of extra, unnecesary couplers...you'd be surprised at how cheap it is to have things welded together if you do the mockup yourself prior to getting it welded...typically anywhere from $40-$100 depending on the shop....be sure you have matching metals though (obviously) and if you have alluminum be sure to take it to a shop with a TIG welder
or turbocharger -> bov -> intercooler -> maf -> intake
there are guys who argue that having the bov on the coldpipe side is 'better' because it vents off denser air but it's kinda a moot discussion...I've ran it both ways and never had an issue with it on the hotpipe instead
as for distance this can affect things...the forums say to place the maf at least 20" from the throttle body, but from personal experience you can place it less than a foot from the throttle body without any issue...I usually have mine about 10-15" from the throttle body
the thing that could affect the MAF the most is the distance between the bov and the MAF sensor...when you discharge the air in the pipe it can cause a disturbance in the air that -could- mess with it's reading and cause it to stall when you come out of gear...I haven't ran it close enough to the MAF to say that I agree or disagree, but the logic is sound...I'd say, depending on the type of bov you have, at least 6-7" from the MAF would put you in the range of no worries
you might also consider taking the piping to a welding shop and having them weld it together rather than having a bunch of extra, unnecesary couplers...you'd be surprised at how cheap it is to have things welded together if you do the mockup yourself prior to getting it welded...typically anywhere from $40-$100 depending on the shop....be sure you have matching metals though (obviously) and if you have alluminum be sure to take it to a shop with a TIG welder
blueprotegelx
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
I will be running an HKS SSQV. I had planned on running the sensor to the Injen CAI and having the MAF relocated. If the MAF is relocated does that mean I need to plug the hole on the Intake and run the sensor on the cold pipe? I did not think anything about the sensor itself as I thought it would be fine.
Advice?
lol, the MAF -IS- the sensor
you cannot separate the MAF and the sensor, they are not two pieces
if you relocate the MAF you do not need to plug the hole on the intake if you don't want to, the hole on the intake is simply if you want to recirculate your BOV...if you relocate the MAF you do not need to recirculate your BOV if you do not wish to
you cannot separate the MAF and the sensor, they are not two pieces
if you relocate the MAF you do not need to plug the hole on the intake if you don't want to, the hole on the intake is simply if you want to recirculate your BOV...if you relocate the MAF you do not need to recirculate your BOV if you do not wish to
I'm going to make a wild ass guess here and assume he's talking about the Intake Air Temp sensor... which isn't the MAF, but is the one that puts a hole in the intake tubing
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