These will work, right??

5/100 is the bolt pattern; 5 bolts spaced at 100 mm.
People just because an offset "works" does not mean it is good.Try try to stay as close as possible to factory offset. Look really hard and you will find wheels with a 53mm offset. The suspensions geaometry is all designed to work best at factory offset. Rubbing aside, 48 is the lowest number I would even consider. You you not believe the effects of 5mm. If you do not care about handeling continue bolting on what "works".
 
5/100 is the bolt pattern; 5 bolts spaced at 100 mm.
People just because an offset "works" does not mean it is good.Try try to stay as close as possible to factory offset. Look really hard and you will find wheels with a 53mm offset. The suspensions geaometry is all designed to work best at factory offset. Rubbing aside, 48 is the lowest number I would even consider. You you not believe the effects of 5mm. If you do not care about handeling continue bolting on what "works".

i knew that thats what 5/114.3 is but i dont know why they had both. and yeah i understand that its not close to stock, but this offset leads to a wider stance so it may actually be more stable.
 
oh and one more question. Do i have to worry about the hub bore working or is that part of the 5/114.3
 
I just got some Tenzo DC-5's today and the bore was like 71.3 or 73.1 or something. They fit so I would bet that the DC-6 would fit too. My stock lug nuts wont fit though. You will need longer ones probably.
 
I just got some Tenzo DC-5's today and the bore was like 71.3 or 73.1 or something. They fit so I would bet that the DC-6 would fit too. My stock lug nuts wont fit though. You will need longer ones probably.

Is there some way to tell or do i just have to hope for the best?
 
Is there some way to tell or do i just have to hope for the best?

Regarding the centerbore? I guess hope for the best. I didnt even think about that until after I ordered. Since our wheels are very similar and from the same company, I wouldnt be worried. If you were talking about the lug nuts, then I would advise you to get some longer ones before attempting to mount your wheels.
 
Regarding the centerbore? I guess hope for the best. I didnt even think about that until after I ordered. Since our wheels are very similar and from the same company, I wouldnt be worried. If you were talking about the lug nuts, then I would advise you to get some longer ones before attempting to mount your wheels.

Alright that sounds good. Now the question is should i get similar lug nuts to what i have now or something like black lug nuts?
 
Do not hope for the best; if the bore is to big you must use ahigh quality spacer ring. If the bore is to small it simply will not fit, without machining. I would recomend against machining unless you know someone very competant. many wheels will not fit the factory lugs.
 
That fender roller is avalible from Eastwood for 250. There is a guy on Nico Forums that rents his out too.
 
Fender rolling is a really big thing in the nissan/drifting community, i would start there. B4 they roll it with the proper toll that attatches to the wheel hub, they usually use a heat gun to heat the paint to make it more plyable and less likely to crack/chip.
 
Fender rolling is a really big thing in the nissan/drifting community, i would start there. B4 they roll it with the proper toll that attatches to the wheel hub, they usually use a heat gun to heat the paint to make it more plyable and less likely to crack/chip.

Another method they use is to heat the paint and then tap the areas over that are prone to rubbing. When I took mine to the shop, they said this would be a better approach because they were concerned that the fender is pretty thin/flimsy and might bend using the roller. They did a sweet job and it ran $120 for both back fenders. The fronts did not need to be rolled.
 
Do not hope for the best; if the bore is to big you must use ahigh quality spacer ring. If the bore is to small it simply will not fit, without machining. I would recomend against machining unless you know someone very competant. many wheels will not fit the factory lugs.

Ok last question, seriously this time though: Is a spacer ring something i would have to get separately or would the shop that is mounting the tire be able to take care of that? I wouldn't know exactly what to get so I'm hoping they'd be able to do it.
 
when I bought my wheels tirerack supplied the right spacers included in the deal. Whomever sells you wheels should know the right setup for your car, if they don't go elsewhere.
 
Looking at these tenzos:
DC6_GRAY_lg_enlarge.jpg

They cost $225 and I think i might powdercoat them gloss black cuz i've got a black mica, got an estimate for $60 per wheel. I would get them in 18"x8" with a 45mm offset and put a 235/40 tire on them with no drop. I've done a lot of searching but mostly just found talking about 48mm. Would this wheel and tire combination work

I was faced with the same offset issue when looking at tenzo wheels recently. I contacted Tenzo about milling the hub surface of the wheel I was interested in (dc6 version 1) to effectively increase the wheels offset, and was told that up to 5mm of removed material was acceptable. However, I am concerned that there may not be enough clearance remaining for the brake calipers. I requested an engineering print from tenzo to confirm this with no luck. So, if you want to try it, you could mill your wheels down for a much more compatible offset. Let me know how it goes!
 
im running volk te's +48 18x7.5 with 235 40 wheels in the front and +40 18x8.5 with 235 40 wheels in the rear. no rubbing with drop and i turn hard. :)
 
im running volk te's +48 18x7.5 with 235 40 wheels in the front and +40 18x8.5 with 235 40 wheels in the rear. no rubbing with drop and i turn hard. :)

Mine did not rub on turns either. It grabbed the inside rear fender when I hit a big dip with people in the car and the suspension hit bottom. I got it rolled for $100 so it wont happen anymore.
 

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