The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

I think for us Speed3 guys, the cheapest way to gain good sound would be to sell the OEM exhaust and buy CNT Racing's Catback. If you got $200 for yours, the CNT is only $320, so you end up spending $120 for an exhaust. Quality and "Sound Preference" issues might be prevalent. But on a budget (like me), this is what I may end up doing someday.
 
it's not from a Speed3, Bernie told me it was BBP but when I looked for it I didn't find it... I found another random brand that looked the same as Bernie's. I tried to find it again but couldn't. I have their email, don't know if you want that
No thanks. Loud exhaust on an automatic just sounds like pure hell.
 
I don't like my loud exhaust either, Larry. I liked my GReddy EVO2 much more, the exhaust note was really low and mean and no rasp. After I get the KL in it will need to go to an exhaust shop to get the Corksport midpipe welded/flanged to the headers pipe and I'm going to have them weld in the GReddy muffler and remove my cat. It should sound really good.
 
Rotary is better. (evil)
Unfortunately going to redline is still pointless :(

I can take it to 9000 RPM if I'd like, but it makes no sense as peak power is made at 7000 RPM. At least they don't feel like they're going to explode at any moment like a piston engine at those speeds though.
 
I don't like my loud exhaust either, Larry. I liked my GReddy EVO2 much more, the exhaust note was really low and mean and no rasp. After I get the KL in it will need to go to an exhaust shop to get the Corksport midpipe welded/flanged to the headers pipe and I'm going to have them weld in the GReddy muffler and remove my cat. It should sound really good.

I thought it sounded pretty good buddy. I heard it the whole fun run. What do you have on there right now?
 
I don't like my loud exhaust either, Larry. I liked my GReddy EVO2 much more, the exhaust note was really low and mean and no rasp. After I get the KL in it will need to go to an exhaust shop to get the Corksport midpipe welded/flanged to the headers pipe and I'm going to have them weld in the GReddy muffler and remove my cat. It should sound really good.
That sounds like a good idea. I am really looking forward to you getting the swap done, it should be sweet. As far as my exhaust goes I want it to be more like an ERRRRRR instead of EEEEEE. If that makes any sense, I think I know what I mean lol. Just a thought, wont you need the cat for emission testing? Or will the ECU take care of that. Maybe a gutted cat for visual inspection purposes, and it could act as a makeshift resinator.
 
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is it wrong to wrap your x-mas present to yourself? I don't think it is, it's not like i can install/use it until next spring/summer but my gf thinks it's dumb.
 
haha...you should just hide it and then "stumble" upon it in the spring...like an easter basket :)
 
Thanks Chris. It's just a little too "fart ca" sounding for me. Just wait until you hear the GReddy with the KL, that will sound heavenly. Right now it's a Spooled^ header, Magnaflow cat and Cork Sport Power Series header-back exhaust. Without the cat is was WAY too raspy and buzzy for me.

Larry, I don't have to get it e-checked again until June of 2012 but it will fail with the OBD1 motor and being catless. So my car is being registered to my girlfriends house in a non-echeck county. I'm sticking it to the man! haha
 
you just let me know if you wanna get rid of it. I've got a spooked up header with the round tip racing beat axel back. I wouldn't mind picking up another axel back.
 
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I'm keeping the CorkSport piping, just having the GReddy muffler welded in. I've got a MAM catless midpipe that I could sell you if you're interested if Phen doesn't want it.
 
I've been bouncing around the idea of getting rid of that 2nd converter or possibly getting a hi-flow one. I had the resonator removed a few years ago, but when we installed the header I had to put one back on. Way too much noise.
 
Unfortunately going to redline is still pointless :(

I can take it to 9000 RPM if I'd like, but it makes no sense as peak power is made at 7000 RPM. At least they don't feel like they're going to explode at any moment like a piston engine at those speeds though.

Unless the power falls off a cliff, like the turbo on the ms3 going out of efficiency at the top end of the rev range, you'll still go faster revving it all the way out because of the gear advantage. Whether it's worth it or feels like it is another issue.

I don't like my loud exhaust either, Larry. I liked my GReddy EVO2 much more, the exhaust note was really low and mean and no rasp. After I get the KL in it will need to go to an exhaust shop to get the Corksport midpipe welded/flanged to the headers pipe and I'm going to have them weld in the GReddy muffler and remove my cat. It should sound really good.

My buddy had an EVO2 on his Si (different friend/car, this one got stolen off KSU campus last year) and it sounded awesome, nice and low, and barely louder than stock. The Greddy sounds alright on the KL, but my personal favorite is the Magnaflow, and lucky me I've already got that. I plan on having a cutout, too!
 
Well, I heard a PGT with a GReddy (the SP2, I believe) cat back and it sounded the best of the 3 that were in the exhaust review clip. I think it was a GReddy, Magnaflow and Pace Setter. The Pace Setter cat back sounded terrible. Angry bees indeed! Which kinda scares me when picking out a header since the Pace Setter gives you the most power but also sounds the angriest. I know the PS and OBX headers will fit the P5/KL swap so it's pretty much a choice between those two. But I haven't done my research on headers yet. I do a weeks worth of research on a specific part, then buy it. Then start all over again with the next part. I haven't made it to the header yet. :)

Anyway, sorry for the KL talk. I'm sure most of you guys are tired of hearing about it.
 
Unless the power falls off a cliff, like the turbo on the ms3 going out of efficiency at the top end of the rev range, you'll still go faster revving it all the way out because of the gear advantage. Whether it's worth it or feels like it is another issue.
I guess I don't understand this logic. Power does not "fall off a cliff" but like any car beyond its peak power point it starts to drop quite noticeably. My reasoning is that I'd rather shift just beyond the point of peak power so I'm right in the sweet spot when entering the next gear. I don't understand the logic in holding it to 9000 RPM where the engine is probably outputting only 3/4 peak power only to shift and still be at a point below peak power. Also, peak torque always occurs lower than peak power so the acceleration wouldn't be there either.

Bear in mind this is for a stock engine so there are obviously many ways to shift the power curve. Ideally, I'd have peak power being made between 8000-9000 RPM. For some reason the rotary's power curve seems far more succeptable to shifting after simply mods than the FSDE. Even after all the mods to my P5 it still made peak power at 6000 RPM and peak torque at 3500 RPM albeit substantially more, LOL.
 
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Well, I heard a PGT with a GReddy (the SP2, I believe) cat back and it sounded the best of the 3 that were in the exhaust review clip. I think it was a GReddy, Magnaflow and Pace Setter. The Pace Setter cat back sounded terrible. Angry bees indeed! Which kinda scares me when picking out a header since the Pace Setter gives you the most power but also sounds the angriest. I know the PS and OBX headers will fit the P5/KL swap so it's pretty much a choice between those two. But I haven't done my research on headers yet. I do a weeks worth of research on a specific part, then buy it. Then start all over again with the next part. I haven't made it to the header yet. :)

Yeah, I've seen that vid, too. That kinda stinks that the header that makes the most power on the KL sounds the worst and the better sounding one makes less power. I guess it then comes down to whether or not you'll notice a few hp vs if you want to hear a nasty sound every time you drive the car. Hotshot is another header.

I guess I don't understand this logic. Power does not "fall off a cliff" but like any car beyond its peak power point it starts to drop quite noticeably. My reasoning is that I'd rather shift just beyond the point of peak power so I'm right in the sweet spot when entering the next gear. I don't understand the logic in holding it to 9000 RPM where the engine is probably outputting only 3/4 peak power only to shift and still be at a point below peak power. Also, peak torque always occurs lower than peak power so the acceleration wouldn't be there either.

Bear in mind this is for a stock engine so there are obviously many ways to shift the power curve. Ideally, I'd have peak power being made between 8000-9000 RPM. For some reason the rotary's power curve seems far more succeptable to shifting after simply mods than the FSDE. Even after all the mods to my P5 it still made peak power at 6000 RPM and peak torque at 3500 RPM albeit substantially more, LOL.

Actually, the MS3 power curve does just about fall off a cliff. Most cars don't, this one is a special case after the turbo goes out of its efficient range.

0610_z+2007_mazdaspeed_3+dyno_chart.jpg


I can't for the life of me find the thread where I read about this exact discussion. I remember I concluded that for spirited driving, shifting right after the power band so that the next gear will climb up the band again, in effect "feeling" the most powerful. However, when it's time to race, the gearing advantage outweighs the small difference in the power band that you gain. I realize this is totally hypothetical, but let's say that the difference between the peak power and the power at the top of the rev limiter for a given car is only 20hp. That 20hp difference is outweighed when the gear ratios are multiplied in, as they are when the car is driven. I hope this is making sense, I don't really know how to explain it.

As best I can remember, you take the individual gear ratio, multiplied by the final drive, and that's the total gear advantage. Unless the it's a super close ratio gear box, the mechanical advantage offered by the more "powerful" gearing of the lower gear will outweigh the difference in the power curve between the point of peak power and the down slope of the power curve.

I wish I had more math under my belt to know about the differences of hp vs torque, but you can either make torque through the engine, or you can make it through the gearing. I guess that's what I'm trying to say. I'm still not convinced that torque is important because there are things that go against the grain of "torque monsters" like old muscle cars, such as Hondas, rotaries, and of course, F1 cars. And for the diesel trucks to become fast, they have to make more hp. There are some sickeningly fast diesel pickups out there, but they make more hp than torque, which is opposite of how they come from the factory.
 
I got my new helmet today. Yippie! My mom is staying with me for 2 days (She lives in Israel so i see her 2-3 times a year) and wanted to go Christmas shopping for me. But the toys I want aren't at local stores, except for Summit Racing. muhaha!
IMG_20101203_172451.jpg
 
I got my new helmet today. Yippie! My mom is staying with me for 2 days (She lives in Israel so i see her 2-3 times a year) and wanted to go Christmas shopping for me. But the toys I want aren't at local stores, except for Summit Racing. muhaha!
IMG_20101203_172451.jpg

WOW, and you call me a dork?
 
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