The CX-5 LED Lighting Thread

[SayNoToPistons]

Can't exactly go by wattage ratings when you shop for plug and play LED units. Most are overrated, inaccurate, and say nothing about brightness.

 

[joe427]

Can't exactly go by wattage ratings when you shop for plug and play LED units. Most are overrated, inaccurate, and say nothing about brightness.

LEDs are form over function.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

I assume these are just plug & play. Just checking since I see posts about putting in a resistor. Not a problem if I need to solder in a resistor though.. plenty extra from my Raspberry Pi projects if similar ohm ratings.

I ordered off VLED. I didn't realize they were just a little north of me in Bellingham. They are on backorder until latter September... no biggie.

 

[runtohell121]

I assume these are just plug & play. Just checking since I see posts about putting in a resistor. Not a problem if I need to solder in a resistor though.. plenty extra from my Raspberry Pi projects if similar ohm ratings.

I would think it's PnP also... Maybe if your car have the halogen 9005 one would need some resistor as DRL regularly runs the high beam on lower voltage, so one would need some sort of resistor or harness for LED replacement. Not sure about P13W (w/ HID) though.

 

[syko128]

so for the non tech package do someone found how to install led light for the DRL light
thank you

 

[ilikeprime]

I was wondering, if I get a CREE 50W #7443 for my brake/taillight, will it cause any problem the wiring? The stock was rated for 21W/5W. If not mistaken, the CREE 50W is pulling 9W of actual power. That would be more than the 5W stated in the maintenance manual.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

LEDs are form over function.

Not all.

 

[sound_man]

LEDs are form over function.

Not true. I put Vleds V3's for my rear brake lights and they work really well. The LED's are more red than OEM. And they work really well in daytime and nice and bright in the night.

You have to spend money for effectiveness.

 

[joe427]

Not true. I put Vleds V3's for my rear brake lights and they work really well. The LED's are more red than OEM. And they work really well in daytime and nice and bright in the night.

You have to spend money for effectiveness.

I've changed my mind and agree with SayNoToPistons.Not all LEDs.

 

[shingles]

Sorry, posted on the WTB as well... but I thought I'd check to see if anyone has some halogen P13W they don't want anymore. I need a pair. thanks.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Sorry if I missed a post about this in this thread but didn't see anything in FSM.

I notice the DRL light that I will replace with a P13W has a couple screws. Do these screws have to be removed to swap bulb?

 

[SayNoToPistons]

No, you just twist to unlock and pull.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Thanks! : SayNoToPistons

One more question I have.

I'm using the Curt trailer wiring kit that simply connects onto existing wiring and doesn't have the full run to battery for power. I know..I probably should've gone with the other kit. Maybe another day.

I noticed this eTrailer warning about mixing LEDs and incandescence.

"Incandescent lights draw much more amperage than LEDs do, and if they pull that current through the LED fixtures, the LEDs could burn up. "

If I converted my rear tail/brake and turn to LED would I then need to convert the incandescents on my trailer to LED as well?

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Driver fog looks easy to replace from the top....passenger side seems a little obstructed by washer tank. Were you able to replace from the top or did you replace from the bottom?

I just acquired a 2015 Mazda CX-5 with the factory HID headlights and fog lights. The HIDs have a nice (4300K) white color but the halogen fog lights simply looked dingy in comparison. H-11 bulbs normally have the end tip blacked out to prevent oncoming drivers from having to stare directly at the filament. The CX-5 fog light housing also has a metal end cap on an arm which is screwed into the reflector. Other retrofitted LED bulbs often have to have the end cap removed.

I was happy that these bulbs were a perfect fit and have a nice, white light which very closely matches the color temp of my HIDs. They are perhaps a bit brighter than the halogen bulbs and would be hideously bright if the fixture end cap didn't cover the 2 forward-firing LEDs behind a convex lens. All the light emitted from the fixture is from the 8 side-firing LEDs - exactly as a fog light is designed to do.

Absolutely no hassle install process. My initial satisfaction is very positive with these. (Posted on 5/31/14)

 

[MATR6]

How did you guys replace the driver's side front turn signal bulb? I tried removing the nut for fuse box & it's still clipped in some how. I gotta go from underneath?

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Are there any special precautions one should take with the cargo light?

I can't remember if it was a TSB or read elsewhere but thought I saw it was easy to burn a fuse out if you aren't careful changing this specific bulb.

In the cargo area,I went with the a 5K 29mm.A 3175 will be a very tight fit with the switch.

http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numb...ed-high-output-dome-light-bulb-29mm-3022.html

I go with VLEDS LEDs.Expensive but quality.I've never had a problem using VLEDS in many years.
Waiting for an order of four 5K 3175 LEDs for maps and dome.Also a pair of these 5K fog LEDS that according to a review on VLEDS, these fog LEDs fit without any altering the lens shield.
I don't care about fog light output.I'm into matching the HIDs.

http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numb...te-10-led-drl-fog-light-bulbs-h11-1-pair.html

Here's that review.

I just acquired a 2015 Mazda CX-5 with the factory HID headlights and fog lights. The HIDs have a nice (4300K) white color but the halogen fog lights simply looked dingy in comparison. H-11 bulbs normally have the end tip blacked out to prevent oncoming drivers from having to stare directly at the filament. The CX-5 fog light housing also has a metal end cap on an arm which is screwed into the reflector. Other retrofitted LED bulbs often have to have the end cap removed.

I was happy that these bulbs were a perfect fit and have a nice, white light which very closely matches the color temp of my HIDs. They are perhaps a bit brighter than the halogen bulbs and would be hideously bright if the fixture end cap didn't cover the 2 forward-firing LEDs behind a convex lens. All the light emitted from the fixture is from the 8 side-firing LEDs - exactly as a fog light is designed to do.

Absolutely no hassle install process. My initial satisfaction is very positive with these. (Posted on 5/31/14)

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Thanks! : SayNoToPistons

One more question I have.

I'm using the Curt trailer wiring kit that simply connects onto existing wiring and doesn't have the full run to battery for power. I know..I probably should've gone with the other kit. Maybe another day.

I noticed this eTrailer warning about mixing LEDs and incandescence.

"Incandescent lights draw much more amperage than LEDs do, and if they pull that current through the LED fixtures, the LEDs could burn up. "

If I converted my rear tail/brake and turn to LED would I then need to convert the incandescents on my trailer to LED as well?

Well most LED's require less current than incandescent. The source can only supply X amount of current and voltage for each light. Your best bet is to contact the maker/supplier of the trailer light set up and whoever provided you your taillight LED's. VLED I'm assuming?

If anything, they'll tell you to whip out a multimeter and start measuring according to their specs.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Well most LED's require less current than incandescent. The source can only supply X amount of current and voltage for each light. Your best bet is to contact the maker/supplier of the trailer light set up and whoever provided you your taillight LED's. VLED I'm assuming?

If anything, they'll tell you to whip out a multimeter and start measuring according to their specs.

Will do. I actually haven't ordered anything yet for the rear.

 

[shingles]

If you plan on changing the rear with LEDs, I think you will be fine. The "risk" is if both your regular taillights and the trailer lights are incandescent. That combo could draw too much current for existing wiring and fuse. I think that warning is probably for cars that come with LEDs from the factory. It's possible that their wiring and fuses aren't going to be sized correctly, if you use a trailer with incandescents.
BTW Kedis, will be you keeping your P13W?

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Thanks!

I have run the numbers but even with incandescents I will still be safe on trailer I intend to pull.

I have another trailer with twice the lights that likely wouldn't work though.

I just want to give myself a margin of error.

I am going to be using the P13W's to replace the incandescent DRL bulbs on the front. I haven't pursued the exact fit for what I need to do on the rear but I am sure info is in this thread.

If you plan on changing the rear with LEDs, I think you will be fine. The "risk" is if both your regular taillights and the trailer lights are incandescent. That combo could draw too much current for existing wiring and fuse. I think that warning is probably for cars that come with LEDs from the factory. It's possible that their wiring and fuses aren't going to be sized correctly, if you use a trailer with incandescents.
BTW Kedis, will be you keeping your P13W?