The best fuel injector cleaner would be..
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MikeHTally
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Speed3, 2006 Chrysler 300C, 2003 Ram 1500
I'm partial to Sea Foam.
The best cleaner is good gasoline such as Chevron, Shell, etc.
FrequentFlyer
Member
- :
- 2008 CWP Mazdaspeed3
Seafoam and Chemtool.
Such as...
Stabilizing Fuel
4cycle_project2_1To add volatility and stabilize fuel for up to 2 years, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel.
Lubricating Upper Cylinders
To lubricate upper cylinders, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel.
Controlling Moisture in the Oil
To control moisture buildup in oil, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. Sea foam will prevent phase separation of moisture that accumulates in oil. Moisture will evaporate under the heat of the crank case. Change oil and filter when dirty.
Controlling Moisture Buildup in Fuel
To control moisture buildup, add 2 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of gas oil mix.
Cleaning Varnish and Carbon Deposits - Carburated Engines
To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.
To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to can of Sea Foam down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system.
Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system.
4cycle_project4_4Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Remove the air cleaner cover unit from the carburetor.
4cycle_project4_5Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the throat of the carburetor, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes. This procedure safely cleans carbon gum an dvarnish deposits from pistons and intake valves while providing upper cylinder lubrication. This helps cure spark knock an dpre-ignition and can drastically improve the idle quality, and help prevent engine wear.
4cycle_project4_6Now start the vehicle again. Drive it aggressively (but legally) for about 5 minutes or until the white smoke is no longer being produced.
Cleaning Varnish and Carbon Deposits - Fuel Injected Engines
To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.
To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to can of Sea Foam down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system.
Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system.
Performing a Sea Foam Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine
4cycle_project4_1Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician.
4cycle_project4_2Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the vacuum hose, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.
4cycle_project4_3Now start the vehicle again. Drive it aggressively (but legally) for about 2 to 5 miles or until the white smoke is no longer being produced.
Cleaning the PCV System
To clean the PCV system, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. It will slowly re-liquefy old oil varnish residue deposits as you drive.
Possible performance improvements include:
* Increased RPM
* Increased vacuum
* Increased compression
Cleaning Lifters and Oil Rings
To clean oil rings and lifters, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters and rings and prevents them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval. OR it can be done as a preventative maintenance process without changing the oil. You can leave Sea Foam in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as buildup oil residue and contamination are cleaned. Check the oil at regular intervals and when it gets dirty, change it.
Cleaning Fuel Injectors or Carburetor Jets
To clean fuel injectors and carburetor jets, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel. It will slowly clean varnish and carbon deposits as you drive.
Performance improvements may include:
* Smoother idle
* restored power and pickup
* Elimination of hesitations
Cleaning Engine Sludge From the Crank Case
**from seafoam**
4cycle_project2_1To add volatility and stabilize fuel for up to 2 years, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel.
Lubricating Upper Cylinders
To lubricate upper cylinders, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel.
Controlling Moisture in the Oil
To control moisture buildup in oil, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. Sea foam will prevent phase separation of moisture that accumulates in oil. Moisture will evaporate under the heat of the crank case. Change oil and filter when dirty.
Controlling Moisture Buildup in Fuel
To control moisture buildup, add 2 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of gas oil mix.
Cleaning Varnish and Carbon Deposits - Carburated Engines
To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.
To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to can of Sea Foam down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system.
Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system.
4cycle_project4_4Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Remove the air cleaner cover unit from the carburetor.
4cycle_project4_5Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the throat of the carburetor, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes. This procedure safely cleans carbon gum an dvarnish deposits from pistons and intake valves while providing upper cylinder lubrication. This helps cure spark knock an dpre-ignition and can drastically improve the idle quality, and help prevent engine wear.
4cycle_project4_6Now start the vehicle again. Drive it aggressively (but legally) for about 5 minutes or until the white smoke is no longer being produced.
Cleaning Varnish and Carbon Deposits - Fuel Injected Engines
To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.
To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to can of Sea Foam down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system.
Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system.
Performing a Sea Foam Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine
4cycle_project4_1Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician.
4cycle_project4_2Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the vacuum hose, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.
4cycle_project4_3Now start the vehicle again. Drive it aggressively (but legally) for about 2 to 5 miles or until the white smoke is no longer being produced.
Cleaning the PCV System
To clean the PCV system, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. It will slowly re-liquefy old oil varnish residue deposits as you drive.
Possible performance improvements include:
* Increased RPM
* Increased vacuum
* Increased compression
Cleaning Lifters and Oil Rings
To clean oil rings and lifters, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters and rings and prevents them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval. OR it can be done as a preventative maintenance process without changing the oil. You can leave Sea Foam in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as buildup oil residue and contamination are cleaned. Check the oil at regular intervals and when it gets dirty, change it.
Cleaning Fuel Injectors or Carburetor Jets
To clean fuel injectors and carburetor jets, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel. It will slowly clean varnish and carbon deposits as you drive.
Performance improvements may include:
* Smoother idle
* restored power and pickup
* Elimination of hesitations
Cleaning Engine Sludge From the Crank Case
**from seafoam**
mortimersnerd
Member
Sorry, but my BS meter gets pegged whenever a conversation about seafoam comes up. I have a hard time believing that this stuff can do everything that is claimed.
BlackCherry06
Member
- :
- '17 CX-3 GT
Seafoam and Berryman's worked great in several of my motorcycles. Chevron Techron F.I. cleaner has worked great in several cars I've used it in, including a neglected 3000 GT that stumbled and stuttered at full throttle, that returned to it's former glory after one tank.
Ya, I don't normally listen to other people's first hand experiences either. You people are full of s***!! (lol2)
It's a caustic chemical that removes built up deposits. Not a very complicated idea, lol. However, if your o-rings, seals, etc, are weak, it will eat those up too. Just fyi. You use stuff like this at your own risk...
oaklandopen
Member
I also recommend seafoam, its very simple to use (although you may need another person to help keep the rpms up to prevent stall from using a vacuum line)
If its just for injectors it would have to go in with the gas, not vacuum. The actual best way to clean just injectors is to remove them and put them in an injector cleaning/testing machine. It runs them through several cycles both cleaning and showing you how the spray pattern is holding up. It shows you if they are leaking, volume of flow, all that good stuff. I'm sure the machine is super expensive too
If you decide to take them out an just soak them in gas you may have to replace the o-rings, or take them off beforehand
If its just for injectors it would have to go in with the gas, not vacuum. The actual best way to clean just injectors is to remove them and put them in an injector cleaning/testing machine. It runs them through several cycles both cleaning and showing you how the spray pattern is holding up. It shows you if they are leaking, volume of flow, all that good stuff. I'm sure the machine is super expensive too
If you decide to take them out an just soak them in gas you may have to replace the o-rings, or take them off beforehand
FrequentFlyer
Member
- :
- 2008 CWP Mazdaspeed3
I'm also a cynist when it comes to thinking this stuff will actually cut through the carbon and crud that has been known to build up on the backsides of our intake valves due to the design flaws of Direct Injection. This problem is common throughout the car industry in DI engines, ranging from Audio/VW, Porsche, and BMW. Cars that cost 3-4x more than our Mazda's. It's a bad design allowing crankcase and exhaust gases to be recirculated back into the intake track without a way to clean the valves like port injected engines have with gasoline.
Unless you have been religiously doing a Seafoam treatment before every oil change since the car was new, I highly doubt it is going to cut through any significant amount of carbon/crud built up on the backsides of the valves. This stuff dries like concrete and a little bit of Seafoam running over the valves is not going to do "Jack Squat".
I recently bought a Corksport downpipe that I wanted to get ceramic coated, so I took the O2 extender bung out of it. The end of it was caked up with a lot of carbon and soot to the point where I could chip it off with a flat head screwdriver. I decided to soak it in Seafoam for a while, which actually ended up being for a week before I remembered I had been soaking it. I fully expected the SeaFoam to have cleaned it perfectly, but it was not even close. It did disolve some of the carbon, but for the most part, I still had to scrape it off with a screw driver and scrub it with some steel wool to get it perfectly clean. This is after soaking it for a WEEK, not spraying a 1/3 of a can on it for a second or two. Without taking the intake manifold off and being able to get right to the valves with an aerosol can of GM top engine cleaner or some other time of carb cleaner and using a wire brush by hand, you aren't going to do much with Seafoam. This engine is HIGH MAINTENANCE.
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^You're not factoring heat into the chemical equation.
Most of these caustics are designed to be used in conjunction with heat to dissolve the carbon build up.
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oaklandopen
Member
^You're not factoring heat into the chemical equation.
Most of these caustics are designed to be used in conjunction with heat to dissolve the carbon build up.
Beat me to it, +1 about the heat involved. The directions do call for a properly warmed up vehicle first
Maybe a good test would be taking an O2 sensor with buildup, torching it, then pouring seafoam on it. I know what you're thinking....BOOM right? Maybe there won't be risk of detonation if its not cherry red hot, and maybe seafoam needs spark to ignite
Just a thought
BigDaddyMS3
Member
- :
- Mazda, Speed3
+1 on Berryman's Chemtool.
MikeHTally
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Speed3, 2006 Chrysler 300C, 2003 Ram 1500
If you want to take the time, follow a fuel tanker. I suspect you'll see it stop at Shell, Costco and Mom & Pop, not necessarily in that order.
