The $1000 Audio Challenge!!!!!

[Poseur]

eD!

There once was company named eD...they blow.
end of story

 

[Poseur]

If you're curious, chekc here: it's been locked and possibly removed, so if it's gone, I apologise. but I was wronged.

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2446&page=1&pp=10

 

[gar777]

Okay experts, I need some help here (and I might actually buy this stuff so take this seriously). I have the following in mind:

Head Unit: Stock 2003 Protg ES
Front Speakers: Boston Acoustics RC620 (6.5" components) - from Tweeters $210
Amp: Alpine MRP-T220 (50Wx2) from Crutchfield $130<O</O
Wires: from Knukonceptz $30
</OSubtotal: $370

I want to maximize SQ and I don't need super high dB or super bass (but I want good bass, of course). I also have a limited budget--$1000 is too much for me. (The $500 Audio Challenge would be more like it). So . . . do you think this system will sound good as is and be a significant improvement over stock or, if not, can you suggest a 6x9 option for the rear speakers which will give good bass to complete the system (along with switching to the Alpine 4-channel amp for $70 more)?

I use my trunk alot and would like to avoid a big sub box sitting back there, not to mention the added expense and complication of a sub, amp, etc.

I hate to admit it to this crowd but I am afraid that once you start spending money upgrading your system, it becomes very hard to stop, like a drug. So I'd like to do this once and for all but want to do it right and have no regrets. What do you think?

 

[Rider69]

You are right that it is like a drug. But I have come up with some alternatives for you.
The Bostons are good, but can save you a little money this way. And you can get the sub, build a small box for it and bridge the 2 rear channels of the 4 channel amp for the sub. THe LOC is for a 4 ch. setup so that you can adjust the bass by using the fader control on the stock HU.
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=1083 ($150)
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=2551 ($200)
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=9042 ($60)
Wires: Knukoncepts est $50 with shipping
LOC: http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-774V ($35 + shipping)

Total: about $500

 

[Aaron23]

Hey guys i'm kinda new to systems, so let me know if this will be a good setup.

HU alpine cda9825- $199- circuit city

Subs 2 JL 10w0's @ 4 ohms $198/pair- sound advice

Custom enclosure built for the subs from JL specs carpeted to match trunk $175- sound advice

Amp JL e1400d monoblock sub amp $350- sound advice

And approximatley $50 bucks for cable from sound advice

 

[Aaron23]

bump

 

[1sty]

Hey guys i'm kinda new to systems, so let me know if this will be a good setup.

HU alpine cda9825- $199- circuit city

Subs 2 JL 10w0's @ 4 ohms $198/pair- sound advice

Custom enclosure built for the subs from JL specs carpeted to match trunk $175- sound advice

Amp JL e1400d monoblock sub amp $350- sound advice

And approximatley $50 bucks for cable from sound advice

The system will be WAY bass heavy but if thats what you want then go for it.
I would personaly drop the extra sub and put the saved money into a JL e series 6 channel amp.
Alpine CDA-9825 - $199(sound advice should be the same price as CC but will have the adapters for less money as they only use one. I'm not sur if Cc is doing free installs though)
Single JL 10W0 sub and box combo - $179
JL 6450 - $450
JL TR650csi - $200
Install an wires will eat up the rest.

Another possibility is to just drop the JL e1400 for an alpine MRP-M350 for $200. Its just as powerfull just not as adjustable. Then you should be aalb eto get some nice front speakers with the left over cash.

 

[Rider69]

Hey guys i'm kinda new to systems, so let me know if this will be a good setup.

HU alpine cda9825- $199- circuit city

Subs 2 JL 10w0's @ 4 ohms $198/pair- sound advice

Custom enclosure built for the subs from JL specs carpeted to match trunk $175- sound advice

Amp JL e1400d monoblock sub amp $350- sound advice

And approximatley $50 bucks for cable from sound advice

So..for $725 you are getting an amp, two subs and a box? You are getting ripped off! I know that is retail on those products, but you can get better subs, an equivalent amp or better and build (I can help ya if you are around Orlando) your own box for less than that.

AMP - $199
SUBS - RE10s - ~150 shipped
Box - $70

So, for under $450, you can have a better setup than what Sound Advice is selling you.


or for $430 you can have one the of the Elemental Designs combo deals:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/combo. Go for #2
then get the same box above or the one with .66 ft3 per chamber

 

[1sty]

I wouldn't touch the Ed stuff with a 10' pole or someone else's money.
But the point is well made that there are better deals to be found. I'd get teh JL prebuilt boxes over getting a custom one built as the custom rout is usualy to much money ( I know, I used to build them for tweeter) The problem is they cost alot to make in the first place.

 

[gar777]

You are right that it is like a drug. But I have come up with some alternatives for you.
The Bostons are good, but can save you a little money this way. And you can get the sub, build a small box for it and bridge the 2 rear channels of the 4 channel amp for the sub. THe LOC is for a 4 ch. setup so that you can adjust the bass by using the fader control on the stock HU.
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=1083 ($150)
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=2551 ($200)
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=9042 ($60)
Wires: Knukoncepts est $50 with shipping
LOC: http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-774V ($35 + shipping)

Total: about $500

Thanks for the suggestions. One question: Do I really need a sub? I use my trunk ALOT (like hauling 4-8 mounted tires, tools, racing jack and stands, etc., to autox or track events (my longest drives, where the stereo will be KEY). I am pretty happy with the volume and bass of the stock system but the sound quality could be better. Could I upgrade the SQ noticeably without adding a sub? Maybe just change the front speakers (already components) for something like the JL TR650CSi (recommended power 10-75W - > could work with stock HU?), BA Rallys or CDTs you mentioned. Add a 2-channel amp if needed to drive the speakers?

Or with better fronts and maybe an amp, will I'd notice something missing (say bass?). Then I might want to change the amp for a 4-channel, add sub/lose trunk, etc. I don't listen that loudly, just enough to make the music come alive, hear stereo separation/staging (volume of stock system at 70-80% is usually fine for me but depends on the recording, very noticeable distortion above that volume).

Will just changing fronts and maybe adding an amp be worthwhile or should I just stick with the stock system? The more I listen, the more I appreciate the stock system and don't want to downgrade in any way.

 

[Rider69]

yes, you can upgrade the SQ alot with not adding a sub. If you were to get some decent component speakers up front and a 2 channel amp to drive them, you will have a noticable imporvement. For a little more lowend from the 6.5" in the doors, be sure to use a good amount of sound deadener on the doors.

I have used the setup of the same CDT speakers and this amp:
http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=5478 in a couple of cars and the sound is very good for under $200 total.

 

[Rider69]

I wouldn't touch the Ed stuff with a 10' pole or someone else's money.

Which is why I recommend them secondly now, even though I run a couple of their woofers in my vehicle. Good for the money if you can get them.

 

[EvilMSP]

This is a good challenge I will get to work making a good system. From glancing at most of the posts mine will be much different. Those overall systems with everything included (like the Sony's) would make me sad. For most people they would rock but those crappy subs will hurt my precious ears. My system will include a pair of components (who cares about the people in the back), a pre-amp, and a quality amp/wiring. Not sure exactly of the amp but I have a good idea of the speakers/pre-amp deck I want.

This is 1k for pure quality. If you get good enough speakers sub's arn't THAT necessary. Audiophiles and friends of audiophiles know what I'm talking about.

 

[SP33D]

I'm definately not a good candidate for this trying to come up with a setup for this challenge...... each one of my amps could break the budget

 

[1sty]

I'm definately not a good candidate for this trying to come up with a setup for this challenge...... each one of my amps could break the budget

Why does that mean you can't think of a budget system?

 

[NoRotorNoMotor]

Ok here is my imput since i am doing this right now

HU:
CLARION DRZ845MC $215/shipped

http://www.6ave.com/product.jsp?x=DXZ845MC


SPEAKERS:
A/D/S 236is components, 2 sets $330/shipped

http://www.audio-n-more.com/ADS/ads_audio.shtml

One set in front, just the mids replacing stock in the rear, extra set of tweets for another car maybe. I am a huge fan of timbre matching so i couldnt just leave the stockers in the rear


SUB:
Absolute Value 12" $190 including tax(local for me no shipping)

http://www.aespeakers.com/products_av12.php

The specs on this sub are insane and i heard its big brother an HE 15" a while back, with enough power and the right box this is all the bass youll need or want


AMP:
Soundstream Rubicon302(bridged 1ohm mono) $184/shipped

http://www.soundcityoutlet.com/page.php?pg=product&id1=&id3=86&product_id=379

Not sure it could handle it, but it is rated 300watt channel to 1ohm stereo(max/rms ?)

I'll be using a Bazooka EL1500(500x1 into 2 ohms) i bought for $60, but cant find it online anymore


TOTAL: about $920 if added correctly

Use the money left over to build the box for the sub, buy some wire and kits, butt connectors, crimp caps and a case of beer for the install

 

[Rider69]

My take on your system:

HU: Good Head Unit if you like Clarion. Personally I would stick with Alpine or Pioneer but that is me. HU are pretty much determined by indiviual features and aesthetics.

A/D/S/ Speakers: Good speakers, I have always liked them and put a set of the 234is in my friend's porsche. After going through putting rear speakers in my P5, I ended up removing them as they became an unecessary evil as far as the soundstage. Good components up front is all you really need. And put some type of amp on those things too to really make them sing. The HU power will not be sufficient.

SUB: Never heard of them, but the stats do look nice.

AMP: Rubicon...The amp is rated at 1ohm stereo and not 1ohm mono, so there fore it will probably not run that sub and even if it did the sub needs about 500W RMS. Neither of the 2 amps you listed will supply the sub with enough power for what is recommended. Especially running the sub at 4ohms due to dual 2ohm VC.

Recommendation:
SUB AMP: Hifonics Brutus BX500D $199
COMPONENT AMP: Hifonics Nemesis NX600 $199

Total with those 2 amps, 1 set of components, HU and Sub is $968 Shipped

 

[Iggy]

how do the a/d/s speakers compare to Jl's Xr series components?

 

[NoRotorNoMotor]

Thanks for the input

Ive had a few Clarion hu's and liked them thats why i decided to get another, the ability to change the color to match my interior lights and the internal flash memory so i dont have to swap discs all the time are what sold it too me

The sub amp was a bit of a stretch, but since i dont need one i didnt feel like looking around too long so i figured what the hell you could run it at 1ohm mono and see what happens

For the time being im going to be using either a dual 10" box with mtx subs or my 10" bazooka tube, probably the bazooka just for weight issues

When i do get the other sub im gonna try to run the EL1500 at a 1ohm load, it is stable down to 2ohm at least..i only paid $60 for it so no big loss if it burns up as long as it doesnt take the sub with it. I dont play my music extremely loud for long periods so it may handle it

With it being winter here it is hard to do everything i want so im just gonna run the a/d/s off the HU for a while until it warms up enough to sit outside and finish running wires and connecting amps

 

[Badger Biker]

ADS sounds interesting as well. I am doing the same as you are, Nu.

Compared to the JL XRs as well, how do the ADS (245/246) compare to CDT CL61a?

All are roughly the same price it seems. I can at least go hear JL and ADS for myself.