Syn or Conven oil?
- Thread starter derkpro5
- Start date
JonnyTheJet
Member
- :
- LaserBlue P5
I use mobile 1 synthetic. Maybe its better maybe its not. I feel like its better though. The engine feels smoother. However, if you are deciding this after having a lot of miles on your car, be careful. I heard if you go from conventional to synthetic, after having a lot of miles on your car, you can get a bunch of leaks. To avoid this you would need to change all the rubber gaskets.
I believe the new crop of synthetic oils are not like the early ones--I believe the original synthetics would mess with the gaskets a bit--shrink them a bit, and have heard stories about synthetics dissolving deposits in older engines that were basically holding back leaks. But the new gen synthetics seem to be quite interchangeable with regular oils and semi-synthetics, so I really would not be concerned. Do you currently use GTX high mileage? I don't think there is a Syntec high mileage(?)
With the small crankcase capacity of the P5, I've decided to run synthetic in mine for an extra measure of protection (never ran synthetic in anything before)--bought my P5 at 52k miles and it's up to 57k, no oil use at all on Valvoline Synpower. I think I'm gonna stick with that oil because I've always done well with Valvoline.
George
No promises, but if your engine is not burning or leaking oil, I think you'll be fine. I bought my P5 with 52.6k, and at the first change, done at 55.6k, put Valvoline Synpower (full syn) in it. So far, I've got 2200 miles on that oil change; has not used a drop.
One big reason I went full syn is that I would like to break my habit of 3k changes and move to 5-6k intervals (still below the mfr recommendation) to save a little oil and a little money, and because the crankcase is so small that I like the idea of the best protection possible. We've got two 4-cyl BMW's in the family (my '91 318is and my son's '97 318ti), with 1.8 and 1.9 liter engines, respectively, and they hold 5.5 quarts of oil where the Mazda holds 3.5....makes me just a bit nervous. Buying 4 quarts of synthetic is hardly more money than 6 quarts of non-syn....especially at the Advance AP sale price of $5.48--buy one get one free--on the Synpower.
I've never used full syn before (been driving and changing oil since 1970) so this is a bit of an experiment. Another reason I like the idea of 5-6k changes on the P5 is because the dang filter is such a b**** to get to--whoever designs these engines should be forced to lie on their back for 10 years and have hot oil drip on them....
George
Yes, Redline make very good Synth. tranny fluid, can't find it everywhere though.(burnout)
What fluid type?
I'm new enough to the P5 that I'm not sure what the *actual* recommendation translates to--do guys try to hit a Mercon V spec, old Mercon, Dexron III?
There are some multi-fluids out there which might cover all these apps, and Ford apparently is killing the old Mercon spec and changing Mercon V to cover prior applications.
George
I'm new enough to the P5 that I'm not sure what the *actual* recommendation translates to--do guys try to hit a Mercon V spec, old Mercon, Dexron III?
There are some multi-fluids out there which might cover all these apps, and Ford apparently is killing the old Mercon spec and changing Mercon V to cover prior applications.
George
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
AMSOIL atf FTW!
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- 2011 Mustang GT
I'm running Elf Excellium NF 5w-40 in my MS6, but I ran Valvoline Durablend in my Protege for 84,000 miles with absolutely no problems.
I've been doing a lot of reading since I just changed my oil in the 6 yesterday, but I settled with the Elf for a few reasons:
-Mobil 1 is just barely above a dino oil when it comes to quality. If you're going to use synthetic, Royal Purple, AMSoil, Elf are pretty good. Take a look at the testing standards they use for each. More is better. The European oil standards are more stringent than ours as well.
-I want something that will work out better in high revving/turbo applications. The Excellium blend is designed for just that.
-After talking to several guys who actually run it, they generally see an increase in gas mileage as well. Usually 2-3mpg at the very least.
If you don't have a turbo, running a blend won't hurt, but if you go with the synthetic, the main benefit is the longer intervals between changes. It's all a matter of personal preference.
I've been doing a lot of reading since I just changed my oil in the 6 yesterday, but I settled with the Elf for a few reasons:
-Mobil 1 is just barely above a dino oil when it comes to quality. If you're going to use synthetic, Royal Purple, AMSoil, Elf are pretty good. Take a look at the testing standards they use for each. More is better. The European oil standards are more stringent than ours as well.
-I want something that will work out better in high revving/turbo applications. The Excellium blend is designed for just that.
-After talking to several guys who actually run it, they generally see an increase in gas mileage as well. Usually 2-3mpg at the very least.
If you don't have a turbo, running a blend won't hurt, but if you go with the synthetic, the main benefit is the longer intervals between changes. It's all a matter of personal preference.
speedracer
Member
- :
- '03.5 MSP
yup
this is what I now use.... same as steve (first)
it is a true syn oil like redline
this is what I now use.... same as steve (first)
it is a true syn oil like redline
- :
- 2011 Mustang GT
www.elfoils.us for those of you interested.
I have only put about 90 miles on mine, so I will let you know what I find after a few fillups.
I have only put about 90 miles on mine, so I will let you know what I find after a few fillups.
brickisred
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
I just bought a Protege with 70k. The p.o. was using Quaker State synthetic and said he did his own oil changes. On a cold startup, (30/40 degrees) I was getting an alarming metallic knocking noise for a few seconds, like it wasn't getting oil. I asked a mechanic about it and he mentioned that the factory oil filters have a check valve in them to prevent taking up oil at startup, (something like that). I had them change it with a factory filter and haven't noticed the problem since, knock on wood. Anyone else experience this?
They put a 5w20 syn-blend in, I don't know what kind. But I may go back to full synthetic.
They put a 5w20 syn-blend in, I don't know what kind. But I may go back to full synthetic.
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i used mobil 1 full syn about 1k ago. I haven't really noticed any differences. although i feel better about having a full syn in there. plus now when i go 4-6k without a change i know that i'll be ok. isn't there a different oil filter or something from the 6 that the P5 can use to up the oil capacity a lot?
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- 2011 Mustang GT
I believe that you can use a 626 filter, not sure of the part number or the applicable years.
Anti-Drainback valve....
I've got a Ford van with a 4.6, and have used Motorcraft filters because they have the best "anti-drainback" valve--this valve keeps the filter full of oil when the engine is shut down, so it gets up to the valve train quicker on startup. With poor anti-drainback valves, these engines make a LOT of valve train noise--they are OHC V-8's. My dealer used some kind of crappy no-name filters unless you paid extra for the Motorcraft filter, and I remember one that made me REALLY worry about my valve train till I changed over to a Motorcraft.
Most every filter has an ADB valve, but the better ones are silicone instead of nitrile rubber (NAPA gold filters, made by Wix, are silicone, as are the pricey Mobil 1, K&N, Purolator Pro--most of the silicone valves are orange, and you can see them inside the can). A poor anti-drainback valve will let the oil seep down into the pan when the engine is turned off.
Strangely, the Motorcraft filters for Mazda apps (which coincidentally are the same FS motors they used in the 90's Probes) do not have a silicone ADB valve. It appears that the Mazda OEM filters do not either, but a guy my wife works with gave me a couple filters when I bought my car (he had a Miata and sold it, kept the filters) and they seem to have good ADB valves despite their being nitrile rubber. My plan is to use NAPA gold filters in the larger 626 size when it comes to my having to buy them.
George
I've got a Ford van with a 4.6, and have used Motorcraft filters because they have the best "anti-drainback" valve--this valve keeps the filter full of oil when the engine is shut down, so it gets up to the valve train quicker on startup. With poor anti-drainback valves, these engines make a LOT of valve train noise--they are OHC V-8's. My dealer used some kind of crappy no-name filters unless you paid extra for the Motorcraft filter, and I remember one that made me REALLY worry about my valve train till I changed over to a Motorcraft.
Most every filter has an ADB valve, but the better ones are silicone instead of nitrile rubber (NAPA gold filters, made by Wix, are silicone, as are the pricey Mobil 1, K&N, Purolator Pro--most of the silicone valves are orange, and you can see them inside the can). A poor anti-drainback valve will let the oil seep down into the pan when the engine is turned off.
Strangely, the Motorcraft filters for Mazda apps (which coincidentally are the same FS motors they used in the 90's Probes) do not have a silicone ADB valve. It appears that the Mazda OEM filters do not either, but a guy my wife works with gave me a couple filters when I bought my car (he had a Miata and sold it, kept the filters) and they seem to have good ADB valves despite their being nitrile rubber. My plan is to use NAPA gold filters in the larger 626 size when it comes to my having to buy them.
George
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