Sub Blew :(

computerGeek

Banned
:
Your Mom
well my sub finally blew up. And supprisingly the dealership gave me no problems. They are ordering it now and i shopuld have my brand new sub next week.

the tech asked me what kinda music i listen too. I said doesn't matter, either the amp is to powerful for the sub or the sub is crap.

another guy asked me how loud i listen i said doesn't matter i have had systems 5 times more powerful than this in other cars and they never blew at any volume level. He said yeah, they should never blow out.

Can't wait for the fart to stop!!!!!
 
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you should get a JL W0 and ditch the crappy kenwood. I did it and love it. THe JL is a perfect fit, plus the JL hits harder. You might want to look at the gain on the amp. Because it might be turned up to much and that is causing you sub to blow.
 
I couldn't find any nobs for settings on the stock amp. Also what is the size of the sub? I can't find the specs and if i open the enclosure the warrenty is voided. Asses!

I am expecting a big ass bonus check and just may do that!
 
You have to use a falt head screw driver to adjust the gain. The gain control is on the driver side of the amp, I believe it is next the the three wires on the amp. The JL sub is a 8", 8 ohm sub. I picked mine up for about $80. To install it all you have to do is take the four bolts holding the sub box out. MOve the box to where you can get to the sub, then just take out the mesh grill. The grill just comes right out. Then you just unscrew the screws holding the sub in, disconnect the two wires and then put the new sub in. I wasn't able to reuse the mesh grill because the JL sub sits higher that whatt the kenwood sub did. Oh computergeek I think I might have found some specs on the JL 8" WO sub. Here check this out.http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/6_8W0_MAN.pdf
 
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STLBLKMSP said:
You have to use a falt head screw driver to adjust the gain. The gain control is on the driver side of the amp, I believe it is next the the three wires on the amp. The JL sub is a 8", 8 ohm sub. I picked mine up for about $80. To install it all you have to do is take the four bolts holding the sub box out. MOve the box to where you can get to the sub, then just take out the mesh grill. The grill just comes right out. Then you just unscrew the screws holding the sub in, disconnect the two wires and then put the new sub in. I wasn't able to reuse the mesh grill because the JL sub sits higher that whatt the kenwood sub did. Oh computergeek I think I might have found some specs on the JL 8" WO sub. Here check this out.http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/6_8W0_MAN.pdf
I bought this sub, as well. Actually, the 8w3v0 is 4ohms. The stocker is an 8ohm. That's what makes the JL hit so much harder is that it's putting roughly twice the power to the sub. One thing my audio guy said was that I needed to keep an eye on it for awhile to see if the amp would get too hot. I cranked the hell out of it for about 2 hours, and heat was never an issue. You're right about the mesh grille, but I wasn't too concerned about that.
One thing that DID suck was getting the screws out that hold the stock sub in place. Those bastards at the factory used Loctite on the threads, and I had to drill most of them out. But I got some 1-1/2" wood screws and installed them to mount the sub.

This sub is well worth the $80! Don't be fooled into buying the 8w3v2. It costs twice as much, and requires more power than the stock amp can effeciently deliver.
 
why would you take the whole box out when all you need to do is remove the grill and then remove the 8 screws??? thats what i did took 15min tops
 
i want to keep the grill i throw alot of s*** in my trunk like golf clubs kitty liter boxes cat food etc. hmmmm i will keep an eye on it and see if it ever comes close
 
mspdfreak, JL actually makes a 4 ohm and a 8 ohm in the W0 series. I bought the 8 ohm, since that is what came with the car. I bet the 4 ohm does hit harder. JIMNEPPER, the reason why I unbolted the box and moved it so that way I didn't have to lay down in my trunk while I put in the new sub.
 
Just an FYI, the Rockford Fosgate Stage 1 and Stage 2 8" subs fit in the stock sub box and retain the use of the stock grill. You can purchase them from Crutchfield.com( http://www.crutchfield.com/S-FFplQxa4iTs/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?a=&s=0&cc=01&g=67500&id=features_and_specs&i=575P28S4 ) for 90 bucks.

I asked the same questions here a while back about a replacement sub and I was going to get the JL 8w3v2 4 ohm, but I couldn't justify paying $140 for an eight inch sub. So I decided to go check out Trader's Village(a really big flea market here in Houston) just for s**** and giggles and I found a place that would sell me a RF Stage 1 for $45 and a Stage 2 for $65 brand new in the factory sealed box. I pulled out my measuring tape(yes I actually brought a measuring tape to the Flea Market) and a sheet of paper where I had written down all the dimensions for the factory sub and sub box and I started to measure the dimensions of the RF sub. The measurements indicated that it would fit. I've been away from the car audio world for a while now so I wasn't sure just how good Rockford Fosgate subs were these days(they were pretty good in the early 90's), so I decided to play it safe and get the Stage 2 4ohm sub which is supposed to handle 200 watts RMS. Well to fit it in the factory box you need to take off the removable magnet cover(just dresses up the back of the sub) and cut a little groove into the sub box's inner baffle to make room for the rather large, awkwardly placed push style connectors. You can make it fit without cutting the baffle but it will bend the connectors a little(not a good idea). The subwoofer's holes line up perfectly with those of the factor sub box and I was able to reuse the factory screws. After I installed it, I decided to check and see if the factory grill woud fit and to my surprise it fit like a glove. You can't even tell that I've changed out the sub unless you stick your head in the trunk and look up.

Oh yeah I almost forgot the most important thing: This sub kicks ass. Best $65 I've ever spent. It plays clean tight and low. With the rear seat backs folded down I can't see out of the rear view mirror when playing rap or bass heavy music and now I have to hunt down a rattle coming from either the leading edge of the headliner or somewhere under the dash. Not bad for an 8".
 
oh nice....i know you have it already hooked up, but if you're feeling even more generous can you post some pix of the alterations you made to make it fit (the removable magnet cover you took off and the lil groove you cut in the box's inner baffle to make room for the connectors)? Thanks for the info though either way! I like Rockford's as I dont' know too many ppl who are unhappy w/ them.
 
As far as a picture of the groove in the baffle, this is the next best thing:

e8e6.jpg


And now the magnet cover and concealing ring(neither will be used):

6ceb.jpg

36f7.jpg

9c45.jpg
 
Sorry about that, here ya go:
 

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Subwoofer installed with and without factory grill:
 

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I've been thinking about going with the JL8w0 for my MSP. My stock sub is blown right now. The dealer has ordered a new but says it may take 6 weeks for it to come in. I'm probably going to sell the car and don't want to waste any money doing something aftermarket to it. Did it take everyone else so long to get a replacement sub, too?
 
H-Town Speed said:
Subwoofer installed with and without factory grill:
LOL, at first I thought that speaker said PUNOH. I was like "WTF IS A PUNOH?!". Then I realized I am an idiot.(braindead
 
I'm getting one. A traders village here in Dallas (Grand Prairie) so I can go and look for one. The dealer just put in a new box. They replaced the whole box and amp. I will go and pick one up this weekend. Thanks
 
peepsalot said:
LOL, at first I thought that speaker said PUNOH. I was like "WTF IS A PUNOH?!". Then I realized I am an idiot.(braindead
Hahaha. Sorry about the bad pictures, damn camera phone.
 

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